20 Most Recent 2005 KTM EXC 300 Questions & Answers

carb problems, improper jetting, to much oil in mix, filthy air filter

you will have to check the switch which should be situated at the back of the pedal . the switch may be over tight and causing the light to come on .
Check also that the wiring may be swapped as the tail light may be using the brake lightbulb .

hi mate when you pull the clutch lever in if it goes all the way in to your grip then it needs bleeding if it gets tight then you have a problem with your clutch itself also if bleed the clutch doesnt work then it could be your seals gone in the reservoir /the piston

gas/oil ratio should be 40:1 synetic.empty tank drain carb bowl thats it l have 92 250 exc. It has fmf pipe &silencer boyesson rad valve, been ported ,crank has been balanced,PVL ignition. I use spectro synetic 36;1 to keep it well lubed at wide open. ,,,

any engine engineering shop that does re-bores will have the piston and rings to suit pistons and rings are generic and not made by the engine manufacturer as for taking it back to stock it is a pointless exercise as the .040" oversize may give you a 1% increase in power if you are lucky

my thoughts are its sucking in trans oil from a bad main seal on the primary side.Other possibilties are you over oiled your airfilter or you are putting in to much oil in your mix .

bad center case seal, or main crank seal right side.

Thanks for contacting FixYa. I was reviewing some of the older un-answered questions trying to ensure your issue has been resolved.

KTM Torque settings

1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber botton bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
23. Other collar nutes on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs

TF

Can you please state year model and size of you bike...all it says is KTM. They have different shocks.

I "think" the clarifcation question was in order for the "helper" to find the correct seals for you. I would like yo to go to this page.http://www.4strokes.com/tech/ktm/fork.aspI have been searching for the correct service manual but cannot find one for free. Its a basic job regardless of the type of bike or the year. Technology has changed for the newer models of all bikes but for most the same basic principals apply.Iknow that this is not an "answer" in part or full but please follow the link.

The carb should be left alone - the speed of the closing of the valve has no influence on the air-fuel mixture. Just back the adjuster out one turn , with a fine adjustment later- that should be enough.

Flange Bolts - Cylinder Head M7 18Nm
Nuts - Cylinder Base M8 35Nm

castrol motcycle oil 5w40

Rebuild the carb.

it is up to ur performance of the bike if u r sure that it could make something after re-chrome go for it. otherwise buy a new one.
I refer to buy a new one

It sounds like a dirty carb or blockage in fuel flow remove gas line from the carb then turn on the petcock on there should be a steady flow of fuel if not there should be either a bowl trap on the petcock that can be unscrewed and cleaned out or there is just a fuel filter replace it. Besides that you will need to remove the carb and clean it out, be careful not to bend the float when you take the float bowl off, often times there is just debree or water trapped in the carb float bowl you may not even have to totaly disassemble carb, do what I described then put the carb back on without the air box rev up the bike and cover the air intake with your hand at the same time this with stall the bike make sure while doing this you dont let off the throottle, repeat, to restart you make need to hold the throttle full for few kicks because of flooding however the method I described causes a high vacuum condition in the carb throat that often times clears out the blockage without having to do a full over- haul of the carb.

That would be like riding a fixed wheel bike.Think about how you will stop and start. Only hydraulic fluid will leak. Bad idea!

Question edited for clarity. That sounds like it is just a bad connection somewhere or possibly a bad switch. Remove the battery leads and clean the lead contacts and battery posts with a wire brush. Smear with Vaseline and reconnect. Remove the starter leads and do the same. Then it could be the Starter Relay https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+relay+location Or Starter Button https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+button+replacement ..

personnaly I would replace cylinder with new OEM

All dirt bikes have a VIN. It is on the steering neck. https://www.google.com/search?q=vin+on+my+ktm+300 ..