20 Most Recent 2006 kawasaki ER-6f Questions & Answers

These are always tough problems. Check ALL fuses. Check grounding to instrument cluster. Check wiring for damage or burnt places. Check engine ground for contact and tightness. good luck

A friend of mine just went through this with his Ninja. Turned out the starter relay assembly he got was the wrong style. He researched it and found there are 2 types, even though the parts supplier said there was only one.

Definitely the starter solenoid. This can be a couple dollar fix if you feel like taking it apart.

you need to find somebody to put a patch on it, I patched mine after having a screw through it and I drove it for another 3,000 miles with no issues. A lot of people say you can't patch them but its bs and I personally did it.

there is a key hole underside of the left rear fairing, insert ignition key, turn and push seat towards the back of the bike. happy riding

the best way to tell is take it to a motorcycle shop and have the error codes pulled from the onboard ecm.

Engine
Engine type Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke Parallel
Twin
Displacement 649 cm³
Bore x stroke 83 x 60 mm
Compression ratio 11.3:1
Valve/Induction system DOHC, 8 valves
Fuel system Fuel injection: ø 38 mm x 2
(Keihin)
Ignition Digital
Starting Electric

Yes they are!

it has to be your bulb, if there is any doubt go to the dealer and plug one in before buying it.Ride Safe! If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_00678fd4800d19c5

There are 3 things that this could be. Blown fan fuse, fan relay bad, or the fan itself is bad. I would start by checking the fuse. If the fuse is good once the bike gets warm to where the fan should be on then check for power at the fan. Unplug the fan and see if you have power at the fan. If you don't have power at the fan, that means that the fan relay is your problem.

Hi,

There are 2 video's i found that might help you.


If there is any further questions, you could revert and i would be glad to answer.

Good Luck!!

Thanks!!

Hi and welcome to the site,

Initially, have the battery externally charged and load tested.

Offhand, check / replace the starter relay. As a test, bypasss the starter relay by momentarily jumping the 2 big terminals to spin the starter motor. If the starter motor spins, then starter relay most likely faulty.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

check the valve guide seals, theyre cheap to replace. does it smoke alot from the exhaust?

See my answer above

if you can see from behind the speedo casing, there should be a hole where the 2 wire goes in. Now you must remove 2 or 3 screws that hold the 2 half piece and inside of it you will see the location next to speedo cable.

On turning the front brakes may be binding or it could also be the steering triple tree bearings.
You have to check all this and rule out any.
If its the steering bearing being tight, thn the bike would also not be stable on the road, so I guess it has to be the front brakes.....
Hope this helps!

no the restrictor just restricts power delivery i.e throttle restriction or air flow restriction.

Yes, you can get a kit to rebuild the master cylinder. Talk to the parts department at your dealer to get the part number.

Probably both.You definitely should open up the clutch side engine cover and take out the clutch plates and measure them to be sure.You must drain the oils before you do so.After inspection use new oil.

it's best you do all wheels at the same time. start from the farthest wheel from the master cyclinder. after you have bled each wheel cylinder/caliper ... fill the master cylinder again to ensure enough fluid is in it. if you do just the front you are likely to **** air back into the front from the rear brakes (if any air is present).

Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.

All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.

First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.