20 Most Recent 2005 kawasaki KX 250 Questions & Answers

Make sure that the cable is still working and hasn't broken from freezing up since it was parked. Had the clutch been causing any problems in the past? This clutch is not adjustable at the base where it mounts to the engine. Adjust the cable if needed from the handle. If this doesn't help, then it sounds like an internal problem. This would require taking off the right side of the motor. Just get a new gasket, and a clutch kit. The basket might be able to be saved with emory cloth. You can get a clutch kit at bikebandit.com

just stick ur **** in the muffler dude

Hi mate sounds like you tested all the standard stuff you obviously know what your doing - In my experience when I get a bike like this where all seemingly is good and set correctly but no sign of life when trying to start 99% of the time ends up being the stator.
And I know it seems strange but I honestly up to about my tenth bike now where even though shows spark at plug when kicked over test, the stator still at fault when tested with Multi meter (way out of spec.)
If you have your repair manual flick through and get the spec ranges for the resistance on your stator then disconnect the stator lead at the CDI end and its very simple set your meter to ohms and plug into each pair of wires (usually 3 pairs) and see what readings you get
don't worry to much if you don't have the spec range as if it is the stator you will quickly notice you get zero reading on one pair of wires if not all three?
let me know if you want more clarification on testing
If all this fails to assist then my advice would a be leak down test to diagnose compression leaks, open valves, gasket leaks etc Then I would pay attention to the pilot circuit of the carbi, Double check your timing and valve clearances, Then I would be back to testing stator again?
Very rarely your coil pack (spark plug cap) can fail but be worth testing it when you have your multi meter out ( you looking for about 0.08 - 0.10 resistance reading on it) and even more rarely the CDI box can fail, no real way to test this apart from plug new one in and test if cures things...
Being that 5-6 years old and you know the bulk of how to fix and maintain this sound more and more like a stator problem..
On the up side if you do need to change the stator great opportunity to change cam chain aswell they run like brand new with full stator power and a brand new cam chain
cheers mate .... Good luck!

NGK brand spark plug BR8ECMVX is the stock plug for the bike. The proper gas / oil mix is 32 to 1. That means 4 ounces of 2 stroke oil per gallon of gas. The posting was not clear as to just what the problem is. If you are burning up plugs there may be a air leak in the intake system making the bike run lean. A lean fuel mix runs hot.

there is the problem in the clutch plates kindly remove it by the new one otherwise it will leads to the choking of engine

A KX 250 has no timing it is a 2 stoke motor are we sure it is KX 250 and not something else ??

You are on the right track. Make sure your air/fuel mixture is good. How hard do you ride the bike? When was the last time you changed your clutch? A worn clutch can give you the same symptoms. Make sure your clutch is properly adjusted. If so, it probably needs to be replaced. The KIPs (kawasaki integrated powervalve system) should be cleaned routinely to avoid carbon build up.

hi there mate how are you the dry weight of this bike is approximately 97kg this is the dry weight which is without oil and fuel.. hope this helps thanks ladjr2

Everyone will tell you the oil they use is the best, so you are going to get a different answer from everyone that answers. I've been using BelRay MC1 for over 35 years and I have never had a lubrication related failure. I am still proudly racing 2-strokes at the top amatuer level. I have heard good stuff about Amsoil but I don't use their premix. I do use their suspension and brake fluids, though.

I suggest using BelRay MC1 at at least 32:1.

I hope this helped.

Remove the carburator to gain access. Unbolt the reed block from the back (rear) of the cylinder. You can replce the reed block assembly, or if you just got the reed pedals, they attatch with small screws. Use blue loc-tite #242 on the reed pedal screws so they don't loosen up. You will need to replace the gasket (s) with new ones and torque the cage bolts to spec. (Pay close attention when you remove it, so you know how it is re-assembled.)

check/clean the carburator, adjust the air screw... lack of fuel, causing the the engine to backfire when you close the throttle... adjust idle...

Change your oil immediately - replacing with the proper quantity and quality lubricant recommended by Kawasaki.

The clutch fluid may need filling up and replacing. If the lever and cabling are ok it could also be an issue with the mechanical parts. I am thinking on the tension of the clutch as it is engaged on the gear. You may have to inspect the inside as the cable is not transferring force to relieve the clutch. Check for linkages that may have come off.

your wheel bearings are a sealed ball type. the seal will have the part number code on it.you can get bearings from a engineering supply shop.you can measure i/d and o/d and width to take to the shop for verifercation if bearings have collapsed and code numbers are detierated.dont forget that you need dust seals which will also have numbers on them.rule of logic if back bearings worn you might as wll do front as well.they are cheap so if you put in alot of riding hours buy extra sets for your tool box .you never know when they give way until it is to late.hope this info helps you out.happy riding!

hi, this could be as a result of mall adjustment, or simply clutch plates stuck together as a result of the machine standing, normaly running the machine and using the clutch is enough to cure this,otherwise you may havee to remove the clutch plates and check for worn or distorted plates, it may also be that the clutch basket is worn not alowing the full release of the plates, check for exsess ware in the form of groves cut by the plates in the outer and inner basket.
thanks for using fixya
paul

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hi, you do need the use of some special tools, to change a conrod-big end kit, presuming you have the engine striped and the crankshaft removed, i would take it along to a recomended garage to carry out this service, paul

how do i set timing on a kxf250 2004

mineral motorcycle oil SAE10W40 should do. Cheers