20 Most Recent 2003 kawasaki KX 250 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

THREE TEST CYCLES IS REQUIRED TO CONFIRM READING WITH THROTTLE HELD WIPDE OPEN

If the clutch lever is properly adjusted, this is normally what happens if the gearbox oil is extremely dirty. Do and oil change then ride for 30 minutes. Then change the oil again to help flush out the dirt. If that doesn't help, then the clutch pressure plates are warped or the cork on the fiber friction plates is swollen from using synthetic lubricants in the gearbox. Check the plates and replace as needed.

From Kawasaki or Ebay etc

Good Luck
Hope this helps.
(If it does then please mark this as 'useful')
Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

does it run out of fuel ? remove the screw on the carb bowl and fuel should run out if not the is blockege somewhere from the tank to carb trace back , is the a spark ? maybe your coil / ignition are bieng effected by the heat from the engine ?,you need to check these things and go from there.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

For the wiring diagram of a 2003 Kawasaki KX250, have you tried here?

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Yes, you need to bleed the system. Somehow air has gotten in.
First, fill the master cylinder to the full level with brake fluid. Locate the bleeder valve down on the caliper and get out a wrench that fits it. Then pump the pedal several times and hold it down as you open the bleeder valve. Do not let the pedal back up while the valve is open - or else air will be drawn back in. After a few seconds, close the valve and pump the pedal again.
Perform these steps until normal feel to the pedal is achieved. Make sure the master cylinder does not run low on brake fluid while you are doing the bleeding.

In general, most of the KYB and Showa big bike suspensions are charged to around 140-150 PSI from the factory.

http://www.mxboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=462

Head nuts 18 ft-lb (25Nm), cylinder base nuts 25 ft-lb(34Nm)

have a look at that link horse power and more http://www.motorbikes.be/en/Kawasaki_KX_250_2003.aspx

Red exhaust pipe(s) are usually the result of a too-lean mixture. Don't allow this condition to persist--pistons, valves, and spark plugs will be damaged from the heat. Make sure the ignition timing is correct.

There is a large "plug" on the bottom of the bowl. Just remove the plug.
Please rate my answer. Thanks!

keep your foot clear of the shift lever. It cannot shifton its own because the gear train is under a load and more so when the power band kicks in.

go to this link for a stock head,

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.net/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

otherwise try ebay.

is your gas tank clean ? ever drain the carb? should every season. check to see if you have correct spark plug and gap. check fuel line for crimp.

NOT REALLY BUT IS FAIRLY TIME CONSUMING AND IF NOT DONE RIGHT YOU WILL HAVE CONTINUING PROBLEMS TRYING TO GET IT THE WAY YOU WANT IT. EASIER TO TAKE IT TO THE MECHANIC AND ONLY A CHEAP THING TO HAVE DONE

yea ... what about em?????????

You mean all the way in (squeezed)?
Adjust the cable at the lever, should release about midway.
If this doesn't work you may need a new release rod (rare).

undow the clutch lever screw the adjuster so that the cable will come out then follow the cable down to the engine undow thw nuts holding the cable remove the cable and refit the new onw in the same routing as the old one set the adjustment so there is about 1cm play at the lever

run 40:1 for starter wull seize engine iff not enough oil and the plug use a BR8EG the g stands for racing use or the BR8EIX IRIDIUM PLUG