20 Most Recent 1998 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic Questions & Answers

i will tell u first the easy fix Before you do your next oil change, try adding some SeaFoam to the crankcase and ride for 50 to 100 miles. This should help remove any junk on the clutch plates. I'd also switch to another oil brand and see if it makes any difference.if it will still do the same:maybe the engagement dogs on the gears are damaged and probably the shift fork as well. The gears will stay engaged at lower torque but when the torque is great enough it causes them pull apart.And get the service manual it i help you a lot you can download it from the below link:http://goo.gl/HyxTzrGood luck

right at the clutch lever on the bars there is three wires that clip into the clutch make sure it is in there good

noisy cam followers or hydraulic lifters from lack of oil indicates that the bearings also were short of oil yes the valve train is the last to get oil but if they had none then there would be little for the big ends and mains so if it appears to be short of oil up top , it may be because the bottom end has suffered damage

Try berrymans b12 and some fresh gas through the tank and into the carb. Let it sit for 24 hours and see if that clears up the problem if not you will need a rebuild of the petcock. K&L has rebuild kits. Refer to the manual for removing the tank and petcock. Its a pretty straight forward procedure.

??..Can you pull the bearing out? Is it held in with a snap ring? Get one of these... it WILL answer your question and show you how to do anything on your bike! Good luck... Clymer Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 1987 1999

Sounds like a drive shaft problem. Could be bent teeth that only mate properly when moving forward and jam up when moving backwards. Easiest thing would be to remove the rear wheel and check the condition of the drive teeth on the inside of the wheel hub and the output face of the shaft. If they look okay, try turning the shaft without the wheel attached. If this sticks in either direction it will require a strip down and may even be back at the gearbox. Sorry, but it could be a big and costly job.

What does it feel like when you press the lever up or down and s there any resistance there

This will give you an idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKJdTG_0DSs you need to get the Clymer manual though.

sounds like a dead short from battery to ground follow your tail light wires all the way back and check for bare or overheated wires

you may have an air lock try opening your rad cap when cold and running your bike @ idle to circulate out air and ?or you may have an overheating problem caused by your fan not coming on and worse case scenario your engine has lean issues or lack of oil causing the engine to overheat

Never heard of any car or bike that automatically shuts down when out of oil.

Fuel pilot device, had the same problem.

Check that your crankcase oil level is not overfull. Have bike compression tested and check that it is within spec.

Hi and welcome to the site,

Initially, have the battery externally charged and/or load tested.

Offhand, with a freshly charged or new battery and clicking sound persist, then possibly a faulty starter relay. To confirm, temporarily jump the 2 big terminals of the starter relay. If the starter motor spins, then the fault on the relay has been confirmed. Should still be a no go, then a likely concern with the starter motor or more particularly, the carbon brushes and/or the commutator segments.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

Replace the old fuel with fresh..make sure its completely warmed up, and take it for another ride. See what it does then.Might need the carbs cleaned again, sometimes it take a few times and get the service manual for it it will help you a lot you can download it from the below link:http://goo.gl/HyxTzrGood luck