20 Most Recent 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hi Kevin: I'd suggest a thorough maintenance routine since you just bought it. Air cleaner Spark plugs Oil change Carb drain/flush Nice Horse! I currently ride a '08 1100 Silverado

There must still be a blockage in the pilot jets in the carb it's unlikely to have no vacuum this would mean low compression

If you modified the exhaust or intake you will have to re jet the carburetors.

regulator rectifier needs changing

It's likely running lean. Most common reason would be a leaking gasket at the carburetor. Check all the screws near the air intakes.

You could find your manual or buy another one. Sorry I do not have one.

can try using a good quality Hermite or equivalent sealant but realy buy a new gasket as the repair wont last

There is a switch built into the hand brake. If you pull your hand brake, and don't hear a click sound, the switch probably needs replaced. Try someone else's hand brake or one on a new bike. If you don't hear a distinct click sound, you need to replace the switch.

Sounds like your clutch has locked up. Most likely the oil that was in your clutch has gummed up and locked the plates together. Pull the clutch in and try rolling the bike back and forth. If the back wheel spins freely then it may be another issue. If it doesn't move try pushing it forward and back either by sitting on it or by standing astride it. If wheel free's up then you should be able to select gears.

Not sure if you want to do that because the carburetor is tuned for a pump. Or you will have to adjust the carbs

Internal combustion gasoline engines need 3 things in order to start and run. Those 3 things are: Fuel, Compression and Spark. If any of those 3 are missing, it will never start. However, that being said, there are a lot of moving parts inside the engine that all have to work together in perfect harmony in order for fuel, compression and spark to all come together at the precise moment. If it were mine and I knew nothing about engine repair, I would take it to a bike shop and get an estimate of the cost to get it running. Likely you'll have to pay for the estimate, but they will usually credit you that amount if you go ahead and have them fix it. If the bike has been sitting in storage for any longer than 6 months and it was left with gas in it, then likely the problem is the carbuerator or fuel injectors are gummed up and will need to be disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt. You cannot allow todays so-called modern gasoline to remain in the fuel lines during extended storage, as disaster and great expense will be the result. Good luck. If you get it running, please wear a helmet when you ride.

Does this have a modified (Non-Stock) exhaust system? If so, It's probably the reed valves. (Large bore Kawasaki bikes are known for it) Look at this page for a few fixes: http://www.gadgetjq.com/smogstuffremove.htm

Undo your carb bowl bleed screws to make sure you are getting fuel, then retighten. If you have fuel from the bowl, that just tells you that you have fuel in the bowls. If no fuel check two things, that your fuel cock is working. If it is a simple gravity device it is possible that your petcock is clogged. If vacuum operated check your vacuum lines for splits and cracks. If it is an electric pump, check for pump operation when first turning on the key. You should hear it priming, then stop. If it doesn\'t do this, check your fuel pump fuse, and replace with a known good one of the same rating. Failing this, it will most likely be a dud fuel pump.

Backfiring is a sign that you have an air leak somewhere. Check the vacuum lines on the throttle body, they become old and crack.

try screwing the bolt of the fuuel holderr in the carborator, whhichh is generally used for overflow, screw it tight ,

The clutch bleeder is behind the left engine cover, you will have to remove the left exhaust from the head and also the left front foot peg in order to get it off should be about 5 bolts holding engine cover on dont worry its just a cover no oil leakage from that side, then it will be down just above the frame, it will have clutch hose going to it.. to Bleed it remove cap on leftside handle bar make sure fluid level is 3/4 fulll hold clutch lever in then open valve, let air out then close valve release clutch lever, should fix if not repeat bleeding until you have good pressure on clutch lever, dont let fluild get to low . once pressure is good refill and put cap back on. put bike back togather and RIDE good luck

you can get an owners manual here : http://www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/showOM.php?view_lang=EN&spec=US&book_no=99920-1841&lang_code=EN

There should be a window there behind the crank on left side. I show pics below of 2 different VINs.

i suggest you check the seal and output shaft again , also see if youve lost any oil in the diff housing on your rear wheel ! if ok then check the seal that connects to the driveshaft , but i wouldnt think this be the problem and its the output shaft area thats it !

Check the clutch adjustment. If the lever has more freeplay in it than the thickness of a quarter at the perch then it needs to be adjusted. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

turn key on ,check ground area may see a lot of oil. turn key to start if no start blown engine.