Top 20 1996 kawasaki ZZR 1100 Questions & Answers

should be marks on each side of the axle , loosen the main nut and use a spanner to adjust the amount of tension , make sure you move both adjusters the same so the marks on each side line up you need about 25mm of slack in the chain measured at the halfway point under the chainguard.

Hi Johan, The firing order for your engine is 1.2.4.3. If you look at the HT leads, they should be numbered so as not to get mixed up, if you have routed them incorrectly its more likely that the engine would not even fire. However knowing the time of year I have to ask, has the bike been stood up for any length of time, if so its more likely that the fuel has waxed up in the carbs ( a common problem) I always ensure I run mine at least once a month just to flush the fuel through the carbs to avoid this issue.If you know what you are doing you can remove the carb bank, strip the carbs and clean the jets, if your not sure best left to someone who does. Then of course you have got to get them balanced again afterwards. Hope this helps. Mike

Hi Google radio codes, type in your reg number and they will tell you the code number...cost about a tenner

take the seat off there are two 10mm bolts holding the rear of the tank remove the fuel line clamp andthen two wire guage connector under the seat then the two bolts at the front of the tank pull it up slowly the tank has two small hoses that are at the back of the tank but not connected to anything they are vents

hiya

i found this site which i think can help you

http://www.kawasakimotorcyclespares.co.uk/SPARES/epc2.asp?modelID=7404&PageID=3557

hope this helps


John

hi the cam cover seals are leaking and require replacement of the 'o' rings around the spark plug holes if you are on a budget or you cant get any carefully apply gasket sealer around the 'o' rings and refit

hi, you can do this with the case still fitted to the machine, but it may be best to remove the case to save any broken glass contaminating the oil, with care break the glass and prise out the old window, take care not to damage the hole the glass sits in, clean up before fitting the new glass, some glass windows come with a band of sealent around them , if this is not the case, apply a small amount of sealent not silecone, and carfully push in the new window untill home,take care not to damage the window outer ring keep checking as you push in that it is square and allter position by pushing on opposite end until square, easy job, requires some finness
paul

I bought one from Haynes.com for my 1978 GS1000

the carbs need to be syncronized, this will sove about 98% of this problem

It is not necessary to release the alignment adjusters to remove the rear wheel so you need have no fear about that.

The first thing I do is put the bike on the centre stand with an inch thick plank of wood under the stand to give a bit of extra clearance when removing the wheel.

The only tricky thing is having the appropriate tools to undo the axle nut. If you don't have the original tool kit you will need to go and do some shopping for large allen keys.

Now all you have to do is remove the two retaining clips, slacken and remove the axle nut and pull out the axle - it can help to tap this from the nut end with a piece of broom handle or similar, and another pair of hands can be useful as the rear wheel is not light weight and needs a little manoeuvring.

Lift off the chain and hang it on the swinging arm and the wheel can be lifted out. Take care not to rest the wheel on the brake disc!

hiya unfortunatly you have to remove the fuel tank, which means removing the plastic infill and quite a few fixings around upper fairing and such. Have fun.

oil filter is next to the drain plug underneath ( circular dish with fins and a hex head bolt ) unscrew this and paper filter is inside....and oil level hole is on opposite as most kwaks ( below front sprocket cover and clutch slave cylinder ,

where can i find a geunie parts catalogue for a 93 zzr1100

check plug leads and caps, and the small resisters inside the caps

could be valve noise valves should be check at regular intervals a chance it may be a wearing cam chain

yes you can mate i use semi synthetic in my gsxr1000

Just from the oil sitting. I recommend oil flush. Also a valve job is not a bad idea either

Have you tried downloading bearshare? Get most instruction manuals on that.

I have been a bike mechanic for over 10 years and never seen this one before. The only thing I can even think of is a broken shift fork. This would let a slider gear wander freely and potentially engage a gear while the bike is already in a different gear. This would account for the rear wheel lock up. The 'tight spot' would probably be a torqued and twisted shaft resulting from the lock up.

The repair will be major surgery on the tranny. Personally, I would replace all shafts, all gears and all shift forks. You don't know and can't just look and see what stress has been put on any individual gear. I would hate to see you put in a few gears, put the engine back in the bike, then find a stressed gear dropping a couple of teeth the first time you hit second. To put it another way, get a new tranny and a new chain. The chain was stressed also. Sorry about the bad news.

Ask the dealer what the cost would be to replace the entire tranny but not the clutch. Now Google ' salvage motorcycles kawasaki ' and see what an entire used engine would cost. Chances are the engine swap that you can do yourself will cost less than the dealer's repair of the current tranny.

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check the carb on that cyl is getting fuel

by removing air box an squirting fuel in that cyl's carb with a windex pumper bottle, if engine picks up speed you need to clean that carb