20 Most Recent 1996 kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Fuel issue (could be clogged jets)Loose spark plug boots (lack of spark could cause it as well).Clogged exhaust making excess exhaust pressure.

hello if you need the service manual for the Kawasaki Zzr 1100 you can download it from the below link:http://goo.gl/HXcTkThanks

If you can smell coolant in the exhaust steam, I am afraid you may have a leaking head gasket.

sounds like a carb overhaul time as well as a fuel system flush

Camshaft cap bolts are 12 N-m for a 1994 ZZR11

The best bet would be to contact you local Kawasaki dealer/importer. Most of them are more than happy to help (atleast in my country). Failing that you can;1) Contact Kawasaki Japan and get the factory records which will tie the chassis number to the engine and the year of manufacture. 2) get a copy of the original registration details which should then tie the VIN to fame and engine numbers.i hope this helps,Sid.

Drain Carbs in to a clear container and see what is in them......should be plug or screw in bottom of carb and a small hose attached

rich ive already tryed and no joy

try running some cemtool b-12 thru the tank and carb

I would think the only accurate way to find that ut is through a main dealership or the DVLA.

According to my service manual for the ZZR1100 98-01 it is carburated and has no pump, it is gravity fed.
The 02 model is fuel injected.

Hi, check the fuse, and the fuel pump relay, if that dose not solve the problem then you will need to dig deeper and start with tracing the wires from the fuel pump back looking for any frays or any spots where the wire could be broken. Sometimes the wire can be broken inside while the shielding is still in tact so you will need to look and feel very carefully. Let me know if this helps. Thanks, Bob

Check your cam chain tensioner. You may have improperly put it back in or forgotten to release it after it was reinsertet, making for timing chain slap.

If you examine the failed plug and check the condition of it. It could be overheating, oil up, carbonize. Not enough information for me to cast an oppinion.
Check your owners manual to see what the plug should run like. If it is overheating, try a harder plug.

It's quite common for fairings to be held together with push in rubber grommets and also slots and tabs between fairing pieces. There is also a newer kind of snap connector which looks and works kind of like velcro except that it snaps open and closed, there is no "half way" on these ones, they are either holding together or not.

I'm not familiar with your model or which fairing you are taking off but I have 2 kawasakis myself from similar era. The belly pan panels need to be split (usually connected together with plastic plugs rather than screws), then rotated to free them up so they slide off from the side panels. My tank side panels had a combination of screw, rubber grommet and "velcro." The trick is to be gentle as it's easy to break the damn things. Only the "velcro" one needs a bit of strength as they really do snap on and off.

Change your oil pressure sender switch. It should fix the problem. If it does not you will need to replace the oil pump.

If the length is the same then yes but what the ride will be like, I wouldn't like to speculate.

CHECK THE TREADS , IF YOU HAVE CROSSED THE TREADS THEN YOU WOULD GOT A BIG PROBLEM

Get the rear wheel off the ground and adjust the chain tension. When checking the tension spin the rear wheel and check that the tension does not go slack or get tighter. If the chain is riding up and down the sprocket teeth then the chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. This is the grinding/clunking noise you are hearing. If the sprockets are worn consider a chain and sprocket set, it can be a less expensive option than buying the parts separately.

I've only dismantled a '96 600 brakes but they looked almost the same as these exploded views. For each piston there are 2 seals. If you look at the seal you will see that they are asymmetrical - looking something like the letter G is cross section. To install them you put the bottom one with the channel down in the groove and the second one with the channel up on the lip - it's there to act mainly as a dust boot, the first one is the actual oil seal.