20 Most Recent 1995 kawasaki ZZR 1100 Questions & Answers

Follow the hydraulic clutch line to the slave cylinder on the left side of the motor. You should be able to see if it's leaking from there. If it is,remove the three bolts that hold the slave cylinder on. It should be dry behind there. If it's not, find a slave cylinder rebuild kit from K&L.

You have a problem with alternator . Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/paul_0aa451e2c4466dbf

Check the fuse box for blown up fuses.
Measure the electrical current thoroughly from battery to cockpit and find out where it cuts off.Plug by plug.

If the fuel supply is working ok, and filter is already replaced then other possibilities causing this problem can be :------- Bad ignition triger advance.
Stuck air mass meter flap.
Bad HT coil connection. ---------How's the air filter - clean or dirty? Remove the filter and try running without filter.Just try if for checking purpose. If it runs smooth with filter removed, then air filter is the issue.------- The handbook warns against running without a filter in case any dirt gets sucked in, so make sure the airbox is clean before you start it without the filter. If the filter is really sticky I would suspect it does need a clean. --------The electrical connections on the air flow meter (maf) also require cleaning or at least checking.-------- Also recheck the fuel filters position.I agree its replaced, but still remove and recheck fuel filters position.-------- There is an arrow indicating the direction of the flow.
A good pressure doesn't indicates a good flow and your engine may be starving for fuel.What fuel grade are you filling up the tank with? A lower grade of fuel may causes problems too.
Sometimes things as simple as a bad spark plug cap will generate the same problem.
Also, try to start your bike in a dark area and check if you see any sparks on the coils. You can even mist them with water (when the engine is off) and it will make it easier to see if you have a crack in the insulation. --------Also the fuel regulator / air flow metering unit could be stiff and responding slowly, that would result in the symptoms you describe. Have you checked it is moving freely?--------Also look for a leak in a manifold, even lose clamps on the rubber stacks. The next is a bad pressure regulator, that makes the fuel richen when the manifold pressure drops off and so would make it bog on initial throttle opening.------------This can mean a few things; partially blocked fuel filter, faulty pump (worm or leaking relief valve), tank not properly breathing, ehh, no doubt there's more. Other thing might be that your cooling water temperature sensor gives a wrong signal and therefore the ECU gives too little fuel. Take the return fuel line off the tank (extend it/other hose) and put it in a container. Then start the bike and rev her up. See if the return line keeps flowing, even if you rev it; that would secure sufficient pressure through the range (i.e. fuel pump and filter allow sufficient flow). See what that gets you.--------- This troubleshooting will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Two suggestions: one is to take your papers to a dealer and see if they can provide a key; and the second is to call a locksmith.

Yes, it should rev much higher. All your driving problems are caused by an air/fuel mixture problem - it's too lean.
You will have to clean the carburetors - the jets are surely dirty by now - and check the level in the bowls. It would be a good idea if you would also clean the tank.

Leaded fuel hasn't been available in the US for about 15 years or more. Just make sure to use an octane rating high enough to prevent 'pinging' that occurs during acceleration. Hope this helps!

small guide Keihin CVKD40

most are on the intake manifold capped by rubber end cap

There are two safety switches that you may need to test. 1) Neutral safety switch- this switch is what tells the bike that it's in neutral and allows the starter to engage. 2) Kickstand safety switch- this switch will not allow the bike to run in gear if the kickstand is down. My initial guess is the neutral safety switch. If the neutral safety switch is bad, then you will not be able to start the bike with the kickstand down because the bike thinks that it's in gear (even if in neutral). This also may explain why the initial intermitent problem of not starting when warm since the metal contacts will expand and possibly not make contact when warmed up. Are you trying to start the bike with the kickstand up or down? If it were the kickstand safety switch, the bike would probably start okay and then die when you put it in gear.

hi there it sounds like the battery connections could be dirty,clean with sand paper ,if does not change check all your wiring connections they could be dirty and check the earth leads to the frame and the fuses.hope this helps

FIRST REMOVE 3 BOLTS ON CLUTCH ACTUATOR FROM LEFT SIDE ON FRONT CHAIN COVER THEN REMOVE4 BOLTS FROM CHAIN COVER WIGGLE BACK AND FORTH WITH PULLING PRESSURE AND IT SHOULD COME OFF

sounds more like a neutral sensor switch or the wire. if your particular bike requires the deployment of the clutch to start then the same applies to the clutch sensor,

hi jason,the first thing that springs to mind is that the bike was not designed to have topboxes mounted to them,as the topbox will upset the aerodynamics of the bike and the weight distribution,even the honda goldwings with all of their hard luggagr have a warning from the factory about not exceeding120kph with hard mounted luggage,for the reason i mentioned above,however if you check the steering head bearing tension and compensate for the extra weight carried by adjusting the compression settings on your front and rear susspension,and lifting yourtyre pressure by a couple of psi front and rear it may help to aleviate some of the problems you have,hope this helps

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I remember a training course a few years ago with Suzuki, they said that up to a point, as the more mdern bikes run hotter and or more efficient combustion, they could burn some oil without it actually smoking like a steam train. either you are burning it or it's going in to cooling system via head gasket, which is unlikely as a litre is a fair old lot. suggest you get your compression checked with a tester, and check all of them, look out for differences, maybe just one worn bore.

Unleaded. Leaded petrol will damage your catalytic converter. If you remove the converter (or just burn it out without plugging it) you can safely use either one.

Check inside your fuel tank!

https://japan.webike.net/KAWASAKI/ZZR1100+%28ZX-11%29/CLYMER/472/1988/mb get one of these.. it will give you the trouble shooting instructions..

The problem is the tank is not uniformly shaped, narrower near the bottom. As the fuel drops below the widest parts into the narrower parts, it drops faster. This is something you are probably going to have to live with.