20 Most Recent 1995 kawasaki GPZ 1100 Questions & Answers

Around 20psi with shock damping on position three gave a good ride in conjunction with 8psi in the linked front forks; for serious street racery another 10 psi in the shock and max damping helped stiffen things up.

http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/faqs/22157-kawasaki-gpz-550-a.html

Yes

The anti-dive valves are easy to remove...
Place the bike on her center stand, and raise the front wheel with a jack under the front of the engine/exhaust.
first loose the 3-way connector on the lower fork part ( brakefluid ).
Remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the anti-dive system to the lower part. You'll see the plunger. When braking, that plunger should move about 2mm out. It must be possuble to push it back in place with fingerpressure. Then that part of valve is OK. All the parts of the plunger are separately available by a Kawasaki dealer.
The lower part of the ADVS is also easy. Just remove the 2 screws holding them to the fork tubes. The fork oil will drip out...
When reassemble, dont forget to bleed the brake hoses at the top of the plungers...
To remove the springs...
Loose both screws on the upper fork clamps.
Remove the rubber stops on the air valves
Bleed the air out of the fork pushing the air valves ( some have only 1 air valve, and an equilibration tube just below the upper fork clamp )
Remove both fork spring stops. Caution, hold them firmly down while unscreing, to avoid the stops jump away at the end of the thread!
On reassembly, the stops must be screwed at 2.3 DaN/m (17 lbf/ft ).
The quantity of oil is exactly 348cm³ in each fork. Must be filled without the springs. Push then the fork several times up and down to pump the new oil in all the valves. Then with the fork down, measure the hight between oil level and top of fork. That must be 379mm.

Hope this all helps...
Don't know about an air valve at the bottom of fork tubes...

The oil is in there but it doesn't always return to the sight window when parked...this is due to the twin sump design of these engines which is why there are two sump plugs to drain the oil when changing it. Take it for a run to warm it up and then park it on the centrestand on flat ground for half an hour or so...then check the oil level

I have the same problem mate, I have been told to check ignition switch / barrel

Try plugs

Check plugs, may be fouled> When storing bikes in my old mans garage, the plugs always foul

where is bleeder?is it a carb drain to get rid of excess build up??

have the carbs been Balanced?,check for any air leaks around carb - engine rubbers - airbox rubbers for cracks

When You Turn The Switch To The On Position. The Oil Light Should Be On This Basicly Shows That Bulb Is Good. When Engine Starts And Is Running The Light Should Go Out Immediatly Indicating Oil Pressure.If The Light Does Not Go Out Shut Engine Off Immediatly And Investigate.OIL Level , SENDING UNIT, Loose Wire At SENDING UNIT.

oil light shows no pressure warning...should be lit whenever the motor isn't running.If you look closely at the right side of the window there are 2 lines cast into the engine casing...these are min and max level lines. Best to run it just under the top one...

should have a small sprung wire hose clip at each end

bolt slides out when pin is removed but if it wasn't copper greased last time then they often seize.

oil seal on the crank case

First remove the seat...then the grab rail...then remove the right seat panel...that's 1 screw under the right rear, 1 under the side of the grab rail, 1 on top under the seat and 1 near the airbox side covers.Then remove the battery retainer bracket...that's got 1 bolt on the left holding it in, then swing it out and unhook it on the right.Next remove the rectangular rubber bung in the plastic cover at the rear of the fuel tank under the seat revealing the + terminal of the battery. Disconnect this and the - terminal and the battery slides out.

level of fork oil is more important than the amount...it should be 120mm from the fork top when fully compressed without the springs.But if you want an amount then you're looking at 470cc although this will depend on wether the fork internals were stripped and dry before refilling. That's why using level is a better guide.Engine oil for the 11 is 10w40

Not really shure it is the timing. I would make shure the fuel is on. check the spark plugs. and it just might be a carburetor issue. Hope that helps.

18.5 mm from card body to top of float.
Just done this myself and check afterwards with pipe up the outside of the carb - worked beautifully.
Cheers
Alastair