20 Most Recent 2007 Honda NT700V Deauville Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Honda+deauville+700+won%27t+start

This is going to be a useful answer. You need a pair of 8" snipe nosed pliers, a torch and a little care. With these, the job becomes fairly trivial (no panels need to be removed).

what's a teip? New one on me. Provide a more thorough description of what you're doing

Attached to starter solenoidRide Safe Bike-Doc

Step 1: Cut the new key
Copy-cut the new key using the original key or according to the key number.
Take key to local keycutter. Should take a couple of minutes only.

Step 2: Connect ADAPTER
- The coupler (connector) of the ignition pulse generator is located above the crankcase, behind the
cylinder block. The fuel tank can be raised to reach it easier.
I found removing the RHS fairing made life simpler, but left the tank in place. You can see the target through the vent hole above the RH falling-over bumper. It is just above the radiator hose.
Connect the adapter to the battery
Or in our case shove one end of a 1K ohm resistor into the back of the lower part of the connector. There are two 2-pin connectors in a black rubber boot. You want the white (translucent) one with yellow and white/yellow wires. Push the resistor wire up inside the connector from the wire end, so that it touches the metal inside the plug body. The YELLOW wire is the one you want. Connect the other end of the resistor to the battery positive terminal.

Step 3: Switch ON with OK key
=> "Lamp remains ON!"
If not, check your wiring is exactly as above. You did use the old key didn't you?
- The ID code of the original key is recognised by the ICM.
- This makes the system enter the "diagnostic mode". (The indicator would start blinking when (ie if) the system detected a problem)

Step 4: Disconnect battery connector 2 sec and re-connect.
To do this, unplug the connector referred to above. You can leave the resistor in place, but must disconnect the coil (and the battery feed) from the ECU.
=> "Now entering in "registration mode"
The immobilizer indicator remains on for two seconds and starts blinking four times.
. . and will continue to flash 4, pause, flash 4 etc indefinitely. If not, then check you shoved the wire up the right end of the connector. You want the one that leads off down the frame and into the engine block. Unplugged, you can see it has female contacts. If you get a solid light and not the flashing you have not entered registration mode (just diagnostic mode) and so no harm is done.
- Now the key in the ignition switch is registered. Its ID and password are registered
in the ICM, while the registration of ALL other keys is cancelled.
So it is not possible to leave yourself with no keys. After this point, just follow the instructions.

Step 5: Switch OFF, Remove OK key, Battery = still connected!

Step 6: Switch ON with unregistered key => Lamp blinks ...
- The ID code of the new key is registered in the ICM.
- The ICM generates a password which is written into the key's memory.
=> Also this key is now "OK!"
Register also the 3rd and 4th keys, if necessary...

Step 7: Switch OFF, Remove ADAPTOR

Step 8: Verify all registered keys... Finished!
Apart from putting your new spare in a safe place. Do it NOW!

find yourself an exploded picture of the engine, primary drive is that between the crankshaft and gearbox, my thoughts are where it is located in oil the the chain would be the most likely option, this is not to be confused with final drive like your shaft drive, do you have a problem with your primary drive?would like to help

if you have a single dash indicator on your bike you can pick up the signal from there.
If not you can install two small buzzers or one buzzer with a diode to each of the signals, this will prevent a back feed and flashing all the lamps.

Hope this helps.

There are several schools of thought on this. Some say you should change your oil every 3000 miles; others say every 6000 miles is fine. In any case, you should change it every 3 months.

You don't want to do this even if it is possible (which I doubt), it will affect the safe handling of the machine.

cheapest way is to get a kilometer sticker off the internet !

The solution may be mentioned in the owner's manual that came along with your bike

The lock may not have the required programming to work anymore, may need programming. Try the info at this link to help: http://www.elsham.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/deauville/hiss-programming/

3 things spring to mind

1, the starter can jam- this can be checked by taking jump leads and battery or a starter pack connect the neutral lead to the body of the starter and touch the live to the main terminal on the motor it should spin the engine over makesure you are not in gear

2, starter solanoid- again an easy check there are 2 large terminals on the top, bridgeing these with a heavy duty screwdriver ( it will spark when arked) will by pass the solaniod spinning the motor there is also an indipendant fuse on the side of it. If this works unplug the conector then you need to touch both of the expodes spades with a 12 volt supply this will involve useing two screwdriver blades ensure you get the terminals correct by checking the live terminal.

3, now is the difficult bit, if both of the first parts allow the motor to spin over it is a wiring fault the most likly fault is the starter button they can burn out unfortunatly if this is the case you will have to ether rebuild the switch involving making new brass contacts or replace the entire switch unit much easier but more expensive, again if the switch is ok you are now into checking plugs for damage and corrosion als check each cable for conductivity with a multimeter.

NB if the starter works on direct contact but not on the bridging of the solanoid chech the master earth and live terminals on the battery and the earth terminal to frame.

The Power Steering has failed. There has been a factory recall for a suddenly failing electrical steering shaft, that could cause the rider to loose control. This does not have to be your problem but anyhow either the electronics or the pump failed. Error codes or messages usually have to be erased by a simple reset procedure or disconnecting a plug, after repairs are done.

Question edited for clarity, but no idea what you mean by - "What do I need to do to get the gay? The clutching gauge in again?" You issue is probably that all the clutch plates are glued together. Leaving a bike for 21 years will do that. https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+Honda+Gold+Wing+1200+stuck+clutch ..