20 Most Recent 2006 Honda VTX 1300 S Questions & Answers

it's part of the kickstand hinge

Throttle system, as well as other controls require periodic service. Lubing your throttle with WD40 or similar silicone spray, at the handle, and working some down the cable, and moving parts at the carb. Follow the cable, twist the grip to see what all moves at the carb and spray it up. If it still binds by all means removes and service or replace the cable. It's a dangerous problem. Do up your clutch too.

hope it helps.

Hi Gary. If you have mechanical knowledge it is not to hard. If your not to confident i'd take to a shop? try this link and see if it helps you out ? good luck http://vtx1300tips.com/Valveadjustmentmanual.pdf

Does the headlight itself work? Will it switch from low beam to high beam? If the lights work but just the indicator is bad, then perhaps the problem is in the indicator socket (corrosion or loose connection) or the wiring to the indicator (bad connector, break in the wire or printed circuit board trace). If the lights don't work, it could be the handlebar switch is failing but it's more likely to be the wiring coming from the bars to the handlebar pivot area.

If you are using an automotive oil , it may be causing the issue. You can use any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different additives and may cause scoring in certain types of cam bearings. Do not use any oil that says " Energy Conserving " on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you choose Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier. At 1300 km you should have no problem switching over to full synthetic motor oil. I drive a 1976 GL1000 Goldwing and have similar shifting problems unless I use a full synthetic motorcycle oil . The problem is most noticeable in hot weather and just after getting off the freeway and onto city streets. Normal clutch problems on a cable clutch would be slippage caused by a binding cable, a worn clutch, or a cable set too tight.

Remove dipstick from left side of bike and wipe it clean. Sit on bike and stand it straight up. Insert dipstick and do NOT screw it in. Remove dipstick and see where your oil level is. If you check it on the side stand, you will read way over full. Should take just under 4 quarts. If you did your own oil change, did you remember the two drain plugs?

there is a high possibility the battery is dead. or maybe the bike isnot charging the battery. i suggest push starting it then ride it a few blocks and shut it off pull the key and then start it again...it might be the attery wont hold a charge...if thats the case then replace it but do that before messing with the stator. hope this helps good luck!

you'll need a special tool these are available at tool stores or at snap-on tools mac tool matco tools ect

i would say the honda dealer was not far out get the rear wheel balance checked, this i am sure is your problem.

Checj your contacts on your statrer switch

It sounds like you have a short in the starter. When the bike is cold, the winding wires are contracted and when it gets hot, they expand to create the short. The voltage drop is a tel tale sign.

I do not believe your machine has a drain bolt for the coolant system. Usually it is found at the lowest point of the system. It should be a bolt with a sealing washer located on the water pump, but in you case a lower point in the system is the lower front radiator hose. I would unbolt the hose clamp on the front of the metal tube coming off the water pump being careful not to disturb or unbolt the metal tube (it is sealed to the water pump with an o-ring and you do not want it to develop a leak). by removing the rubber lower radiator tube at one end you should be able to completely drain the system.Part #19.
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2006-honda-vtx1300s/o/m2931#sch411333
do not disturb the tube part #8
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2006-honda-vtx1300s/o/m2931#sch411521

If you look where the throttle cables are mounted to the throttle body, open the throttle when you close it check the point at which the throttle meets the stop, this is the point where the idle screw is addjusted, from this point on the underside you will see the screw has extension cable it will be visible on the underside from left hand side, right on some models

Is the fuse blowing just turning on the key....or while the bike is running?

I'm not familiar with your particuliar model....but if the fuse blows immediately....test the Kill switch on the handlebar for a short.
Test your ignition coils primary and secondary for an internal short.
I think your bike has a fuel pump, if so...perhaps there is a short there, or its drawing too much current.

I could be realted to the Stator, but much more likely diodes or regulator. It sounds like you are running on battery alone. You need 13.8 to 14,5 volts at the battery at 2000 rpm. I suspect that you have 12.x, and are not charging...

hi do you mean when you push the caliper towards the disc the brake lever goes slack?

if so and the brake is working fine then you prob have no worries

when you push the caliper towards the disc you are forcing the piston back into the brake caliper and as a result the piston then has to be pumped out, so the pad has min distance to travel to make contact with the disc, hence the slack lever,

hope this helps and thanks for using Fixya

Paul