2005 Honda CRF 450 R - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Here are images from the service manual. There is more to the installation ; cam mount torque and valve timing for example. My email is [email protected]. Email me and I will try to email back with a PDF attachment of the head installation chapter from the factory service manual.

Have you tried another spark plug. It is easy to wet foul a new plug with ethanol fuel. New spark plugs need to be driven a few miles before there is a enough exhaust carbon to seal the crack between the metal body and the insulator. It is also possible that the resister in your spark plug cap has burned out causing a weak spark or no spark at idle.The spark plug cap is part #2 on the following diagram. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2009-honda-crf450r/o/m18024#sch583897 The OEM spark plug cap is $35 but you may be able to use an NGK replacement for around $5.The spark plug cap simply unscrews off of the end of the wire and should read 5000 OHM's on a voltage meter. If the reading is higher or lower replace the cap.

No, it's not necessary.

Some water pumps are considered replacement items and are no repairable. Check with the agent to see if there are spares available, if not, you will have to buy a new water pump. If the water pump is repairable (you did not mention your bike make or model), here is a photo guide to what to expect:- http://www.classicwingclub.org/gallery/finn/rebuild.htm

Hi, your water pump drive shaft has warn a groove where the water pump oil seal sits, so you need a new water pump shaft gaskets and seals. Maybe new shaft bearings $100-180 to get it fixed. The water neck from the cylinder head needs a new o'ring..........

May I ask what you need to have changed so I can help you more. Also Year, Mak, Model will help a lot.

I've got to beleive at minimum you're looking at a top-end. That would include valves/piston/ring and associated machine work. The grey/white oil indicates coolant coming into the cylinder head and mixing with your oil. Not a good sign. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but it looks like a pretty involved repair.

John

The coil may not be the problem on your bike you may have a bad ignitor it is module on the the bike usually located under the gas tank or near the battery.

check the clearance between the rear tire and inner rear fender, maybe stuff a shorter shock in there. also look into a different seat, maybe one with a thinner thickness

The biggest problem with the clutch system that Honda uses on it's bigger bikes is the replaceable bushing in the lever wears out quickly. If it is worn at all , it can cause binding and problems with clutching. The rod is just a connector between the lever bushing and the piston/plunger. The plunger is spring loaded and should return to the full out position after being depressed/pushed in fully. When the assembly is together and you apply pressure to the master cylinder piston by pulling the lever it should push the piston and depress the internal spring, then the piston should come back out by itself. If you push the piston all the way in and it stays there , you will need to buy a clutch master cylinder kit and rebuild the master. All the internal pieces for the clutch master come in the kit. To disassemble you gently pull the rubber cover out and remove the circlip with a snap ring pliers . Then the piston and spring should slide right out. Note the position of all the pieces to make reassembling the new pieces easier.
If your clutch will not engage when the piston is pushed in fully, you probably have air in the slave , the line , or the master cylinder. Remove the top master cylinder cover and top up the system with DOT 3/4 brake fluid and bleed the slave cylinder. Warning: be careful not to spill DOT Brake fluid on your paint or plastic. You may want to lay a piece of plastic and an old towel over the bike to catch any drips. Place a tube on the bleeder screw (slave cylinder) and loosen the bleeder screw. now pump the lever to push the air out of the system. Hint: if you do not have pressure in the master, loosen the brake hose banjo bolt enough to burp the air out of the master. Retighten the banjo bolt and bleed the rest of the system.
Bleeding the system should restore clutch performance. If you notice fluid leaking from the master or slave cylinder , replace the o-rings in the slave cylinder piston and rebuild the master cylinder. A master cylinder kit and slave cylinder o-rings are available at your local Honda dealer.

make sure u hav correct grade lubricant-the oil maybe to thick or double check level to make sure its not too high

Disassemble the carburetor and clean it. The jets are partially gummed up from old gas that has evaporated leaving a varnish build up. If you can, soak the entire carb and parts in denatured alcohol for about an hour. Then clean with spray carb cleaner. Spray into every hole and jet in the carb. On re-assembly, lightly seat the throttle and air screws then open each of them one and one half turns. This is the factory setting. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

la bougie de mon moteur ne fait plut de feux je veux savoir si c'est la boite électronique vu que j'ai du courant qui sort du stator

The Power Steering has failed. There has been a factory recall for a suddenly failing electrical steering shaft, that could cause the rider to loose control. This does not have to be your problem but anyhow either the electronics or the pump failed. Error codes or messages usually have to be erased by a simple reset procedure or disconnecting a plug, after repairs are done.

Question edited for clarity, but no idea what you mean by - "What do I need to do to get the gay? The clutching gauge in again?" You issue is probably that all the clutch plates are glued together. Leaving a bike for 21 years will do that. https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+Honda+Gold+Wing+1200+stuck+clutch ..

Check the wiring, especially the engine earth lead.

On the bottom of your speedometer on the left side there is 2 buttons press the far left one for a couple of seconds and the light should go on

Question edited for clarity. The RC26 has a few modifications, but nothing that should alter the wiring.

1986-1987 - VFR700F / VFR700F2 (RC26)

The "Tariff Buster"[ 700cc VFR700F was almost identical to the 750cc version, with minor changes to graphics (no 750 on the lower fairing), shorter stroke, different cams, and altered ignition timing. Otherwise the VFR700F2 was mechanically the same as the standard F, but had an upgraded rear shock and fork internals alongside square gauges. Wiring diagrams and manuals https://www.google.com/search?q=1987+honda+vfr+700f+wiring+diagram ..

For a 1999 Honda CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are essential to ensure proper engine assembly and function. When tightening the cylinder head bolts, it's crucial to follow the manufacturer's recommended torque settings to prevent damage to the engine components. For the CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are typically as follows: 1. **Initial Torque:** 29 Nm (2.9 kgf-m, 22 ft-lbs) 2. **Final Torque:** 64 Nm (6.4 kgf-m, 47 ft-lbs) It's essential to tighten the cylinder head bolts in the specified sequence and in multiple stages, gradually increasing the torque until reaching the final specified torque. The exact tightening sequence can usually be found in the service manual specific to your motorcycle model. When torquing the head bolts, ensure you're using a reliable torque wrench calibrated in the appropriate units (Nm or ft-lbs). Always follow the tightening sequence precisely to ensure even pressure distribution across the cylinder head gasket. Additionally, it's advisable to use new cylinder head bolts if the old ones have been previously tightened or stretched beyond their yield point. This helps maintain proper clamping force and ensures the integrity of the engine assembly. As always, referring to the service manual or consulting a professional mechanic experienced with motorcycle engine assembly can provide additional guidance and ensure the correct torque settings are applied during the cylinder head installation process.

found this on eBay copy and paste Picture 1 of 1 Vesrah Oil Filter for Honda VT250C V Twin Magna 1994-1995