Top 20 2005 Honda CRF 450 R - Page 5 Questions & Answers

put the tire on the bike then put the little rod through then tighten everything like bolts washers

Back to shop and have them do their job righthtis time.

The engine oil also lubricates the transmission and clutch. There is no separate procedure for changing it, changing the engine oil is all there is.

Sounds like dirt in the main jet of the carb. Take the slide out and clean the needle. The pull the float bowl and blow air or carb cleaner through the brass jet in the middle of the barb, where the needle seats.

May be a decompression problem. What gear do you use when you pull it?

i would 1st check to see if u have spark...then connections...cheers marc

to begin i will say that it is more the way you proceeds that make you solve the problem...and also good analyzed...
check easiest and closest thing for first

1. check vent tube and gaz cap (make sure it let air into the gaz tank)...if not you are running out of gaz in about 5 minutes i will say
2. get the gaz tank ready to remove fast...so when the engine stop you can check out fast with you're spark plug for missfiring...sometimes a bad stator loss continuity when getting hot
3. honda as a problem of intake valve getting tight....if intake clearance is zero then put new intake oem valves cause ajusting the valve with the old valve will solve the problem for a short period of time...(the titanium valve as a molycoat onto it that when remove....make valve without protection and getting tight all the time)
4. if after all those test you are not gettinf no where i will give you my msn and then we shall make that thing running

intake is 0.004 in
exhaust is 0.005

remove the front number plate and inspect the cdi box, look 4 damage 2 the case then check wiring connectors-should a 4wire and a 6wire block.also check LH engine casing 4 damage (gear lever can smash it if u crash) this is where the stator coil is-which is the power source 4 the ignition system. hope this helps.good luck.

battery faulty , charging fault, magneto or generator fault. There may be a short in the loom somewhere causing a drain of current. Spark should be crisp, fat, and strong,strip wiring back to basic ignition only and you may get to the heart of the fault by process of elimination. A manual would give you specific tests to carry out on the various ignition components, that would be a good investment eh?! Hope you solve it soon, kind regards the |Yeti - Hastings

it is not that common that you have to change blader and bushing...blader can be easily check out by looking if it is crack or to much warp...bushing will be ok if the coating is still there. i sugest that you bought after market race tech oil seal and dust...less expensive than honda and i only work with them and there is no issue yet. d'ont forget when you put oil into the shock you will have to wait to endclosed it till there is no air bubble at all in you're oil...thanks to leave good feedback.

Hi
I would suggest that you have the valve clearances checked.

Also, check that the carb is clean. Pay particular attention to the PILOT JET as this opperates the idle circuit.

Jon

Get a new stock NGK sparkplug. Check for spark. I am a bit unclear if you have spark or not. Got a good battery? Any kill switches on?

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Check the throttle slide. Does the slide go up and down when you turn the throttle?
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install the new NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Be sure the bolts are tight. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks slik_105!

You managed to bend a shift fork. The fork can not slide the slider gear all the way into 5th gear.
This repair is not for the amature. Sorry to have to send you the bad news. Time for a visit to the dealers service department.

Please rate this answer. Thanks!

There should be a level screw on the right hand side somewhere near the water pump. I have an '09 CRF450R and it takes about 700ml, but it may be different.

It almost sounds like a ring is broken and you are looking at a motor teardown if you have excessive suction in the crankcase.
Ken S.

There is normally a mechanism that it attached to one of the hubs and that is what is finding speed or mileage. Check to see if that is correctly installed or broken.

There is an o-ring on the oil filter cover that might be foulty.. check it first..you might have pinched it when installing the new oil filter. also the 2 bolts holding the cover on might need to be sealed with some sealer...

The people who rebuilt it should have made sure it ran before giving it back. Check that there are no loose wires, and especially check that the plug which plugs into the black cdi unit is in correctly. Also make sure the coil is wired correctly.

If you are replacing the bearing anyway, it doesn`t matter what happens to the bearing. Heat up the bearing over a flame getting it Very hot, the putting a shifting spanner os other spanner that can slide ofer the shaft but not the bearing, and hit the spanner with a hammer and that should move the bearing, Repeat until bearing is out.
*NOTE* Mark the shaft with something to show where the new bearing should be ( do not use a marking pen, it will burn off, use some thing metal but dont damage the shaft.)