Top 20 2005 Honda CRF 450 R - Page 4 Questions & Answers

four stroke engine oil,designated for performance motorcycles only, available at bike shops, the more it costs usually the better it is for the bike. buy it in four litre packs and change it often. some auto stores will stock it

Not, sounds like a seal vent for the water pump, shouldn't leak.

No you shouldn't have to get them adjusted that ofter by no means......have to changed spark plugs lately......run any carb cleaner through you motor such as seafoam (found at autozone or advanced)? anyway thats what i would do before i adjusted the valves again

there for the coil to make it spark

Bigger jetting (a higher fuel/air ratio) will not cause overheating. But an air leak between the engine and carburetor can cause overheating - and an erratic idle. Make sure the carb is correctly connected and there are no air leaks. An air leak could also be the cause of the popping that you were attempting to address by re-jetting.
Once any air leaks are corrected, adjust the idle mixture screw to attain the highest idle speed when the engine is at normal operating temperature. Then, use the idle speed screw to set the correct idle speed.
Finally, ride the bike at full throttle for a short time, pull the clutch and coast to a stop. Remove the spark plug and check the color; a tan or light brown color indicates correct jetting. Too light = too lean. Too dark = too rich.

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First, let's assume that the valve tappet clearances are set correctly and the cam chain is properly tensioned. This will eliminate these as possible sources of excess mechanical engine noise.

If the noise is, in fact, 'piston slap' - then a teardown and inspection of the top end is called for. And yes, in addition to resolving a worn piston and cylinder bore, it would be an ideal time to examine the valve train for needed service. At a minimum, remove the valves and clean all carbon from them and the cylinder head and ports. Check for excess valve-to-guide clearances and pitted or worn valve seats. Usually, these engines are just fine with a cleaning of the parts and a re-lap of the valve seats. Replace all the gaskets and valve guide seals - and you should be ready to rock and roll.

Attach a piece of clear plastic tubing to the bleeder screw. Make sure it is air tight, I generally tie it into place with a bit of copper wire. Place it into a clear glass container with some brake fluid in it, enough to cover the bottom of the tube, plus a bit. Release the bleeder screw with the correct spanner and pump the brake or clutch. Make sure there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir. It is handy to have a friend helping, especially for the clutch because it may need a couple of top ups that can be done as you go. As soon as there are no more bubbles, lock off the bleeder screw and tidy up your mess. :D

Try taking the return spring out and give it about an additional one inch of length by gently stretching it out. Over time, the spring can loose some of its original tension.
Even the smallest debris particle can cause the throttle slide to hang up. If it isn't foreign matter causing it to stick, then there could be a ding or gouge in either the slide or the carburetor body. Take the slide out and put some blue machinists dye on it, then slide it up and down inside the carb - this will show you where any high spots are. Carefully remove the high spots with 1,500 grit wet or dry sandpaper.

This site is not a parts store!!

hi,without seeing the bike i would guess that the head gasket has failed,when this happens the compressed gasses inside the combustion chamber escape into the coolant system and presurize the coolant,the end result being coolant escaping out through the overflow as the pressure increases,i would recommend getting it looked at fairly promptly as the engine will start running poorly and possibly fail...cheers

Compression settings are adjusted in conjunction with rebound settings AFTER the rear spring pre-load/sag is properly set. The springs on both these bikes are too soft for 230-235 lbs. so they would need to be replaced with the correct stiffer spring rates to properly set sag for starters. You can work around this by attempting to set sag near the ballpark and then compensate for this by adjusting the clickers. This requires you to adjust your settings the way pro tuners do - trial and error.

the shim is hardened steel and most of the cavity is either cast aluminum or zinc so a magnet should do the trick of coarse the trick will be to fet a magnet small enough to go down there try an industrial supply store that handles tool and die making stuff they usualy have a pretty good selection of retrevial magnets Good Luck

no buddy to adjust idle on carb will be a screw turn this in for more idle and out for less idle

Drain the gearbox oil. Remove the right side case cover. Remove the bolts and springs. Remove the center hub nut after bending the holder clip on the nut out of the way. Note the sequence of parts in the diagram. Inspect the bearings highlighted in green. Inspect the clutch push rod (in yellow). Roll it on a flat surface to see if it is straight or slightly bent. Note that the first and last plates in the clutch are fiber friction plates. A metal pressure plate goes in-between each friction plate. Parts 17 and 18 are replaced with 23 and 24. Put the lock washer #24 next to the nut.

Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. If in a hot area like Texas or New Mexico go with 20w50.

Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer? And it doesn’t cost anything extra!

sounds like its fuel starved.when bike stalls, remove plug and if it is dry, fuel problem. check any fuel filter and the carb bowl

sounds right, but shims dont really wear the valve sits in or the lobe wears, hence the need for re-shimming

Think about the valves. If they are to tight (Valve clearance) with the heat added when warm, they (Or one) might not close. I'd check there first.

The clutch inner hub torque values ar 7.5Nm or 7.5n-kg or 54 ft-lb.

The clutch springs torque to 8Nm or 0.8m-kg or 5.8 ft-lb.

I don't get paid for my answers and I am only trying to help. But I do take pride in them. So if you will, > > > > A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

The best way, is with the manual that comes with the bike new, if you don't have it, find or borrow one (Same model and year) because it has all of the steps and fluid capacities in it. There is no way to "talk" you through it.