20 Most Recent 2005 Honda CRF 450 R - Page 6 Questions & Answers

i would 1st check to see if u have spark...then connections...cheers marc

Sounds like dirt in the main jet of the carb. Take the slide out and clean the needle. The pull the float bowl and blow air or carb cleaner through the brass jet in the middle of the barb, where the needle seats.

Think about the valves. If they are to tight (Valve clearance) with the heat added when warm, they (Or one) might not close. I'd check there first.

The clutch inner hub torque values ar 7.5Nm or 7.5n-kg or 54 ft-lb.

The clutch springs torque to 8Nm or 0.8m-kg or 5.8 ft-lb.

I don't get paid for my answers and I am only trying to help. But I do take pride in them. So if you will, > > > > A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

There is normally a mechanism that it attached to one of the hubs and that is what is finding speed or mileage. Check to see if that is correctly installed or broken.

battery faulty , charging fault, magneto or generator fault. There may be a short in the loom somewhere causing a drain of current. Spark should be crisp, fat, and strong,strip wiring back to basic ignition only and you may get to the heart of the fault by process of elimination. A manual would give you specific tests to carry out on the various ignition components, that would be a good investment eh?! Hope you solve it soon, kind regards the |Yeti - Hastings

synthetic 30 weight is the proper oil

It almost sounds like a ring is broken and you are looking at a motor teardown if you have excessive suction in the crankcase.
Ken S.

There should be a level screw on the right hand side somewhere near the water pump. I have an '09 CRF450R and it takes about 700ml, but it may be different.

The people who rebuilt it should have made sure it ran before giving it back. Check that there are no loose wires, and especially check that the plug which plugs into the black cdi unit is in correctly. Also make sure the coil is wired correctly.

There is an o-ring on the oil filter cover that might be foulty.. check it first..you might have pinched it when installing the new oil filter. also the 2 bolts holding the cover on might need to be sealed with some sealer...

Get a new stock NGK sparkplug. Check for spark. I am a bit unclear if you have spark or not. Got a good battery? Any kill switches on?

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Check the throttle slide. Does the slide go up and down when you turn the throttle?
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install the new NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Be sure the bolts are tight. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks slik_105!

You managed to bend a shift fork. The fork can not slide the slider gear all the way into 5th gear.
This repair is not for the amature. Sorry to have to send you the bad news. Time for a visit to the dealers service department.

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Wiring need to be checked if not worn out by spark. Also please check out the Spark plug used in Starter Motor.

www.fixitout.com
FIO

If you are replacing the bearing anyway, it doesn`t matter what happens to the bearing. Heat up the bearing over a flame getting it Very hot, the putting a shifting spanner os other spanner that can slide ofer the shaft but not the bearing, and hit the spanner with a hammer and that should move the bearing, Repeat until bearing is out.
*NOTE* Mark the shaft with something to show where the new bearing should be ( do not use a marking pen, it will burn off, use some thing metal but dont damage the shaft.)

First you want to remove the water pump cover, under that you will see the impeller and it should have a 6mm bolt, (10mm head), that you will need to remove. Remove the bolt and then the impeller will lift off a "D" shaped shaft. Note that there will be a copper washer under the bolt securing the impeller, you should replace that every time you remove the impeller bolt because it prevents water from leaking through the shaft into the crankcase.

sounds more like a slipped timing chain to me, big problem area on the big power 4-strokes, tokyo mods makes a manual timing adjuster, will make a big difference in longevity of your next timing chain, i wound also check the vaves to make sure the piston hasn't shaken hands with the valves

yeah i got u kid. well depending on wat bike u have, which i dont no. u mite have to replace all the gaskets around that area. just take off the waterpump cover replace the seal. write me back.im done answerin **** today peace

You will have to remove the fuel tank to get to the spark plug. Not that bad of a job...2 seat bolts,tank strap and the radiator shroud bolts and fuel petcock. Thats it! good luck!

Best place to start looking would be ebay or you local motorcycle salvage yard.