20 Most Recent 2005 Honda CRF 250 X Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category.

Torque Specifications - Honda CRF250X Owner's Manual ...

ManualsLib https://www.manualslib.com > manual > Honda-Crf250x Honda CRF250X Manual Online: Torque Specifications. ENGINE Torque Item N•m kgf•m 1 Cylinder head cover bolts 10 1.0 2 Exhaust pipe joint nuts 21 2.1 3 10 ...

Crankcase Torque Spec.?? - CRF250R & RX

ThumperTalk https://www.thumpertalk.com > forums > topic > 8357... Nov 5, 2010 - 12nm, 9ft lbs or 108"lbs. Don't use loctite on the case bolts. Use some blue loctite on the kick start bolt, that usually the one that comes ... torque specs please service manual guys - CRF250X Oct 28, 2009 Clutch cover and Crank cover Bolts/torque? - ThumperTalk May 17, 2006 Bolt torque specs - CRF250R & RX - ThumperTalk Aug 10, 2007 bottom end torque specs - CRF250R & RX - ThumperTalk May 20, 2009 More results from www.thumpertalk.com

Left side cover torque specs 2005 crf 250

CRF's Only https://crfsonly.com > forum > viewtopic Feb 25, 2012 - Hey fellow red riders I'm having to change my left side cover and can't find the torque specs for the left side cover bolts and if the ... Torque Spex - CRF's Only Forums Jun 21, 2007 CRANKCASE BOLTS TORQUE - CRF's Only Forums Apr 18, 2017 Torque Specs 2006 CRF250x ? - CRF's Only Forums Jul 1, 2009 Washers and Bolt Torque - CRF's Only Forums Apr 9, 2017 More results from crfsonly.com

HONDA CRF250X

Honda http://owners.honda.com > 2005 > 2005_crf250x side cover bolt (8). 6. Install the collar (7) and seat bolt (9) tighten the bolt to the specified torque: 20 lbf·ft (26 N·m, 2.7 kgf·m). Servicing Your Honda. 180 pages ..

First take off air filter then dry it.Secondly take off the carb you have to to drain the water out put it back together you should be good..while its off make sure your reeds don't have any rust on them.if your oil is foamy depends on the amount of water thats has been sucked in ,you might want to change it.

not positive what you are asking, but on this bike, the engine oil also lubricates the transmission gears. what is key is to use a motorcycle oil. automobile oils are too slick and will cause your bike's transmission to slip.

You're going to have to get the nut off and take a look. If you're lucky it's the threads, and you can just get out the tap/die set, re-thread and put a smaller nut on. Worst case scenario, it breaks when you take it off, and you're going to have to replace the bolt. That is not as easy, but if you have a tap/die set and can get the old bolt out, you should be able to knock it out in pretty short order.

The water pump seal is maybe gone.This would allow water into the trans.Get it checked and also that the bearing hasn,t spun in its location.This may cause the color change.Being a grey color,it may indicate aluminium in the oil.This may be the spun bearing turning in the housing.With what you wrote,I would get these things looked at.I hope this helps you

I am assuming the carb is in good order. Be sure the battery has a good charge and that the spark plug is giving a strong spark. So you have good fuel delivery and good spark, and the air cleaner should be pretty clean. The problem is usually flooding of the engine by twisting the throttle too much, too often. Each twist sends a shot of gas into the chamber. It is pretty easy to flood the engine.

You can click the link below, there an instruction in there on how to change the spark plug.
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://crfsonly.com/howto/crf250x/crf-valve-adjustment/image012.jpg&imgrefurl=http://crfsonly.com/howto/crf250x/crf-valve-adjustment/crf250x-valve-adjustment.php&usg=__FqHgrFOdclPMwPDb3YCNPgkPvnw=&h=300&w=400&sz=11&hl=en&start=5&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=Hdx6FkgpGV83vM:&tbnh=93&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3D2005%2BHonda%2BCRF%2B250%2BX%2Bspark%2Bplug%2Bchange%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG%26tbs%3Disch:1&ei=7ctyTca8HY3QsAOI_rnUCw

If its not the valves it could be lean. Is the hot start adjusted right? They mean it when they say check valves every 300 miles on these bikes. I just went through the same thing on one.

do you have a clymer manual-it contains detailed rebuild--you know bottom work is really touchy and if things arent done just rite--issues! even pros develop problems

When my carburetor was really dirty it did this. Try disassembling and cleaning your carburetor internals, while your at it you should get a kit for it so you can replace the seals etc. Another thing to try is to replace your spark plug and lead. Even if these things don't solve your problem it will make it run allot better. Make sure if you haven't done any of this before to get someone experienced to show you.

It should be staright forward. First of all you have to find out why it is leaking but I suspect you have got grit or some mud in the drive oil seal and replacement should sort it out.
Have fun!

if the timing is wrong you'll need to verify that... the best way to do that is to check with a manual. another thing to eliminate would be to see how much compression you have..if you know thats good then nevermind. [email protected] if i can help further

poor it in a little at a time once you poured a little in let sit for ten min then check it using the dip stick if not at right level add more and repeat

Atop the engines cases, under carb.

Take your choice> 1.2 Nm to 1.6 Nm or 104 inch pounds to 139 inch pounds or 8.68 foot pounds to 11.6 foot pounds. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Sea Foam! just follow directions on can.ride at least 20 miles after adding to tank.

Remove the carb then the float bowl and clean the carb. The pilot jet is plugged up. From a lightly seated position, the screws open up one and one half turns.

Since it starts and thn cuts off, it shows tht there is sparks and some fuel do go through to the combustion chamber.
You may need to clean the carburator, theres no enough fuel flow to it and thus the none start and whn it does it cuts off!
Hope this helps!

you may be able to drill it and use a screw extractor. be careful not to let it get hot . dont drill through to the tank, use plenty of WD spray.
If this process goes bad you may need to epoxy a small stud into what is left of the thread and hold the panel on with a nut.
as a last resort you may be able to drill right through and use a piece of wire to poke a bolt through from the inside and epoxy a washer and nut to it, to give you a thread to mount the panel.

if its the overflow it will be a tube that goes to the overflow tank, if its coming out the small hole in the alloy casing under the waterpump, you will need two new seals and sometimes a shaft as well. one seal keeps the water in the pump and one seal keeps the oil in the engine, the small hole is a space between the two