20 Most Recent 2002 Honda CR 125 R - Page 9 Questions & Answers

When you rebuil the top end and pulled the power valve off did you put the screws bacvk in to the valve arm before puting the case and top end on cause you will either be closed or wide open on valve.and did you put the reeds back in? and make sure the floats are right and all jets are back in it the right way. try that

hi mate you will see a screw pocking out the carb screw it in 1/4 of a turn and start it this is the idle screw which should bring the revs up a little good luck

I recommend a good manual, from Honda. My first case split was form lots of reading before I tore into it. Be warned that you need some good tools and patience, because a wrong move can cost a lot of cash.

The only thing it means is that you need an in-line fuel filter and there is dirt in your gas tank.

A “very helpful” rating on this answer? Thanks!

you should open the carb and check the floaters and the pin they control.Then adjust the float height and test it before you put it on the bike.Empty the gas from the engine 'cause it will damage the crankshaft's oil seals.

It could be the axle bearings or sometimes a bolt on the sprocket comes loose and wedges against the swingarm.

stator, CDI or pulser. Probably the CDI. It is a common problem

sounds like you should check spark and coil this may solve problem

I could not find a free download. You can go to www.repairmanuals.com and probably purchase a manual there. Also Google "motorcycled repair manuals". If at all possible, only get a factory service manual. Haynes and Clymer are not nearly as helpful. Gas/oil mix should be 32/1. That's 4 ounces of 2 stroke engine oil per gallon of gas.

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a plug on the bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the plug then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Pay special attention to the main jet. Check the main jet, the stock jet is #360. Remove the idle screw on the outside throat of the carb and also the air screw on the intake where the air filter attaches. Spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two adjusters back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the slide back in the throat of the carb but move the clip on the jet needle to mid-range. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. If the problem is still present, remove the exhaust pipe and try again. The exhaust could be restricting the flow of burned gas out of the cylinder. The only other thing would be the crank seals. Post a comment to get back to me.

chage engine valve

Try this http://the-manuals.com/

it is eather the spark or your floats clean the plugs and ground them to the heads and kick it over if you get a good spark then its your floats.

Your carberautor is either gummed up or needs to be adjusted. Begin by going to an auto zone or similar store and gatting a can of carb. cleaner that gets added to your gas. Be sure to follow the instructions on how much you add per gallon. let that run through your bike for a while and see where you are. If cleaning the carb. doesn't hellp, then the carb. will have to be adjusted.

The gear changing problem is going to be a bent shift fork. Is it stuck in 1st gear, 2nd gear? Those are the most common. As far as the engine quitting, I don't yet have enough information to give a suggestion on why it is happening. It could be a bad kill switch, plugged fuel filter or vent, water in the gas, carb needs cleaning or . . . A bunch of possible causes. Which one depends on how the bike has been acting lately.

TURN THE IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW ON THE CARB.

1) Purchase a shop manual from a dealer. Inside will be a wire diagram scamatic that will show color codes and ohms resistances. Test all electrical components with ohms meter to varify working properly. If factory conects to electrical componets are there then **** end connect back in place using correct color codes from manual. 2) If factory connects are missing you will be better off buying a new wireing harness for the bike via dealership. The last is going to be your best solution since all you will have to do is plug everything back in where it goes. Most connections will only reach as far as the item it is supposed to be pluged into and will only fit one way or the one particular item. It is always a good idea to buy the shop manual for future issues.

sounds like you might have broken a piston ring. Sometimes a small piece will break-off and cause the loss of compression and if you look down the cylinder you wont see it. But it's enough to cause a problem.

the clutch plates and friction plates are getting worn, or your clutch cable is in need of adjustment

Go to this websit and select discuss this bike: http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/honda_cr_125_r_2006.php

Is the timing right? Check the timing.

Knight.