20 Most Recent 2002 Honda CR 125 R - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Both the air and throttle screws set the same. Turn the screw in until it LIGHTLY seats then turn outward one and one half turns.

Could you take a moment and rate my answer? Thanks!

clutch release lever / the push rod send me a pic if possible

Your clutch is not disingaging all the way so if you can't adjust it far enough at one end or the other than you could have a worn clutch push rod. First adjust it at the lever. Hopefully you'll be good to go.

check your ball joints, and your alignment those might affect the steering.

your carb: of course your carb has an idle and a mixture screw built-in. the idle is the knurled (usually gold) screw with the spring on it. and the mixture screw is the small one (usually gold too) set into the carb body. you'll know it because it's not hoding anything on. just sitting in the body. turn it only 1/4 turn at a time. your slide-needle should be mid to down if anything. c-clip up and needle down, that is. you want it to run as lean as possible w/o doing damage of course. almost all amateur's bikes run WAY too rich, all the time.
if you ever look at the starting line of a pro race compared to a local one, you'll be amazed. there's no smoke coming from a pro's bike. let your bike run a little hotter and cleaner and change the piston and rings more often. you and your bike will be happier couple.
a good way to test how your bike is running is to get it hot then run it wide open in fourth gear and hit the kill switch (if it still has one) while you still have it pegged. take the plug out and check the color. it should be light tan to pretty clean. any darker and your losing power. (don't use a new plug when you do this). are you getting a good spark? use the best plug you can get for your bike too. if your carb has adjustment for low, mid, and high end, then you should do it three times. at those three throttle speeds.
ATAC: are you sure you're going to remove the ATAC-valve system? if not then let me know. there are things you should know and do to make sure it's working right. it works very well if maintained and adjusted correctly.

as far as how it runs...it should absolutely rip. i was riding a cr 250 back then, but even a 30-year old 125 should scare you if it's running right. of course the piston and rings sounds like your major issue, but make sure it's breathing and flowing clean from airbox to silencer. are you replacing the silencer along woth the pipe?

Boyessen reeds are still your best bet. make sure your not sucking any air in through your intake manifold too. if it's old and cracked, then that could be why it was running too hot. of course make sure the surfaces on the manifold and the cylinder are in good shape and that no air can get sucked-in between them. a medium-depth scratch on the length of the seal surface can be bad.

i switched from kx's to yz's to cr's through the 80's and i loved the hondas. even managed a 4N (4th in the nation) plate on the cr. have fun and go fast! (don't ride over-your-head though) :)
i know every screw, spoke, and gasket of your bike and how it works like the back of my hand. if you have any other questions, plz feel free. i have lots of little factory-mechanic tips to help make your bike faster always stays in perfect shape, if you're interested.

cheers!

Did you put oil in the gas?

cuts off or breaks up?? if it breaks up it could be a couple of things bad reeds or electrical like stator or cdi bog ign coil check those

try ricks motorcycles in plaistow nh. they will ship it to you

you may want to check your card settings and the compression itself as the woosh and the bang noise means that the gas is burning, but not completely combusting.

hope this helps.

This answer is gonna cost you a "Very Helpful" rating...

To see an exploded view of your entire bike, go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb.

The stock main jet is #165. The number is stamped on the side of the jet. A richer jet would be #168. A leaner jet would be #162. Play with jet sizes to get the best overall performance at mid- range to high speed.
Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?

best thing go to a dealership in your area, they will advise you and the cost of a jet is very small.

Standard main jet for a 1999 CR125RX is #162.

Check to make sure you haven't swapped the forks Left for Right. There maybe a design feature thats prevents swapping them.

You have a couple of options. Have a professional welding shop weld the aluminum case and then all that is left to do is to replace the seal on the output shaft. This will probably cost about $50.00.

Second option would be to Google " motorcycle salvage honda " and find what you need there. If you replace the broken left casing, also replace the right center casing. Slight changes in manufacture during a production run sometimes occur. This means the casing halves may not line up perfectly causing the shafts not to turn when the engine id put back together. ALWAYS replace center casings as a matched set.

hi mate you need to adjust the float if theres to much fuel going through you need to take the float out and adjust it to the manual specifications but remember slot the pin out and take the float out but watch the little valve which stops the fuel where the little valve is hanging from that is the part you need to adjust

Sound like it's jetted too lean on your idle jet in your carburator. That will make sound like it's "running out of fuel." If that's true, you plug will turn white if you let it run that way for a while.

Check the rectifier.

just measure across two flats of the nut, it is metric

Check your valve clearance?