20 Most Recent 2002 Honda CR 125 R - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hi,

thank you for coosing Fixya

in 20liters of Gasoline you will need 200grams of Oil.

The right hand side of the axle requires a 17 or 19mm Allen key to remove it properly. That side of the axle slides thru the fork and the shoulder spaces the wheel. It is retained by the 2 pinch bolts on each fork leg. If you don't have the big Allen key, do this-
Remove the axle nut on the brake side. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the brake caliper on and swing it out of the way.Loosen the pinch bolts. The axle should slide out now-if it's corroded, you may need a hammer and a drift to drive it out. Be careful not to damage the threads.Note the spacer on the brake rotor side.When putting it back together, clean and lightly grease the axle. Also grease the inside of the lip seals for the bearings. Reinstall the wheel, with the hex end of the axle flush with the fork leg. Tighten the pinch bolts on that side only, and torque the axle nut to about 40NM. Loosen the pinch bolts,and compress your forks down a couple of times. This insures your fork legs are parallel and the wheel is centered. Tighten the pinch bolts, reinstall the caliper and you're good to go!

Check gear selector claw - for stiffness & broken spring

Find out how many gallons your motorcycle tank holds. Do a little research on the manufacturer and model of your dirt bike. Also find out what ratio between oil and gas is required. Then, do a little math, and find out how much oil to add to each tank. Add the oil. Then add the gas. Adding the gas last will help stir up the oil in the tank.

Need more info / could be dozens of causes.

The idle screw and the air screw adjustment is as follows > IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Set the idle speed with the idle screw. This should get you back on the road.

There is a big range of answers to that question but to give you some idea of the answer 32 parts petrol to 1 part oil - right up to 60 parts petrol to 1 part oil is the range of ratio that most commonly would be used . to give some insight in simple terms the more fuel and less oil mixture you will burn hotter and produce more power but sacrifice wear and tare on the motor
realistically the mix you choose depends on what sort of riding you intend to do - if you are racing and want the hole shot then 50 - 60:1 mix with half pump fuel and half race fuel will get you there but you will be rebuilding the top end fairly regularly
For recreational use only then 40:1 mix with standard pump fuel only would be the most common as it is in the middle of the range giving you good power with high level lubrication so ware and tare kept to minimum.
if you make changes to fuel mix then keep the changes small just alter the mix slightly and record the results because you will also find each bike responds a little differently
when I am setting bikes up for events I usually will go out to test area with 3 or 4 bottles each just with 500 ml of different mixtures in them and give each mix a test just for five or ten minutes then once the best mix chosen the I start fine tuning the carbi fuel air mix etc only takes an hour or so and what the hell it's a lot of fun to do any way!

Not without major modifications to the frame.

Replace the needle and seat in the float chamber. You can try cleaning the carb again this time using lacquer thinners, the only stuff that really cleans the gum that gas turns into when left standing, but consider a new carb kit.

check and clean or replace the float needle assembly,set your float height ,check your throttle cable and make sure it has a little slack.

Hi, Sounds like you may have a faulty rectifier. Should not be too expensive to replace.

Depends entirely on how much you drove it and how hard. Does it still start easily? Does it still seem to go like it always has? If it still seems healthy, it probably is. Bear in mind that bikes seem to slow down as you get used to them (or get fatter LOL).

no they are different sizes were they mount to the frame and engine

hope this helps

Hi, sounds like you may have too much free play on your lever, when you pull the clutch it is not disengaging all the way, try taking some free play out, simply turn the adjuster at the lever so when you pull the lever it has resistance after half inch, if is is still the same than wrong oil can also do it, worn clutches is another reason.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-CR125-R-1998-2002-Clymer-Workshop-Manual-M464-NEW-/400166473967?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item5d2bc7d0ef

Clutch friction plates are often the worn out component of that assembly. IF the plates don't spline in correctly with the basket due to some physical damage, then you should replace the basket. The clutch is comprised of an inner and outer hub that become interlocked through metal disks and friction disks pressed together under spring pressure.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2002-honda-motorcycle-cr125r/o/m2178#sch304800

Follow this link to a schematic of your 2002 honda cr125 to see how it all fits together.

Is the oil cap on tight? Also it could be a little bit of a problem if it leaked alot of the black liquid out you might wanna have it inspected by a mechanic.

It sounds like your coil is putting out to much fire...I'm not sure but if it was me I would try a new coil. It could also be gaped wrong

1) Release the pressure on the system by unhooking the clutch handle from the cable
2) Identify which side of the crank holds the clutch mechanism. Probably opposite the chain drive sprocket which means the clutch is on the right side as you sit on the bike. Spray off sand or grit that may fall into the works as the case cover comes off.
3) Drain the gear case oil
4) Remove the kick starter by removing the bolt holding the lever onto the starter shaft. Carefully, maybe with a impact driver screwdriver, loosen and remove the screws holding the round clutch cover from the engine crankcase. There are probably five, maybe seven, Phillips screwheads or maybe with ten mm hex heads. They will be different lengths so remember which holes each came from. I always replace screws with hex head bolts 'cause the screws can be a pain to remove.
5) Remove the clutch cover. You may need to remove the footpeg. there may be a steel ball bearing about 8mm diameter roll out of the center of the basket, so watch for it.
6) The clutch will be covered by a 'basket' held down by probably six bolts recessed into the basket.
7) As you remove the basket, you will find rings made of metal alternating with rings of fiber. Remove these, noting the order. If the metal rings are not blued or scratched, you can use them again. The fiber ones will need to be replaced, at about $7 each. Oil them and put new fiber rings back, starting with fiber and ending with fiber. I smear oil on the fiber plates before I put them in. You will see notches in the teeth at the edge of the fiber plates, and want to not line these up with each other.
8) Put the cover back, usually using a new gasket, or at least silicone. Leaks here make a mess and it's worth taking time to get it sealed.
9) Fill with amount of oil specified on the side of the crankcase. Make sure you use 'cycle oil, with MA rating. Auto oils will allow the clutch to slip, and make it burnout quicker.

120 psi means you need top end( should be around 160psi) if you can feel the score marks with your finger you will have to have the cylinder bored and install a over-sized piston kit,if you cant feel them than you can have it honed.....now the stuck power valve is why you didn't have any power,take them out and clean all the carbon deposits off them and reinstall, pay close attention to how they come out so you can put them back the same way...if you have a manual you can check the adjustment specs on them also.....now on to the crank,the first indication of bad crank seals or bearings is losing your trany fluid,if you don't feel any unusual vibration or hear any unusual whining or have a large amount of lost trany fluid your probably OK with the crank.......yz-maniac