2001 Honda XR 250 R - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You may have the wrong tool kit in your bike. Honda always gives you a spark plug wrench that will work with your bike in your tool kit. The tool kit may have been switched or incorrectly replaced at some point with a kit that contained the wrong wrench. You can go to a Honda dealer and order just the spark plug wrench you need off the parts microfiche probably for under $10.

You should try cleaning the carberator. Start with The bowl and the main jet. 9 times out of 10 there is junk in it. Once cleaned properly it should run great. If not, be sure to check the float and the peckcock to make rue you're getting plenty of fuel to the carberator.

sounds as if it is starving for fuel. You need to look for obstructions in the fuel line or a clogged filter. Most commonly it is trash or goo in the needle valve in the carb. It could also be that the float is not properly set. the float in the bowl needs to be properly angled to allow the required amount of fuel to enter the carb when it is needed.

I always change the seals without taking the sliders out of the bottom legs.
If you look at the bottom you will see a bolt that holds the two together

chrome to top

Remove the spark plug then put the piston at Top Dead Center compression. Look at the position of the timing marks on one side of the cam, parallel with the gasket surface. Remove the cam as you described.

Your bike has an automatic cam chain tensioner. There is no "adjustment". A spring supplies the tension and I will bet the spring is broken. It is possible the fiber band that is the tensioner has broken but that seldom happens.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

If the bike starts good, idles good and runs good don't fix it. Wait until there is a definite problem that needs attention. If all is well then the fuel/ air mix, float level, etc., are set as they should be. Please don't be upset with me. I just don't want you to tinker with the carb until it is broken. Problems will come soon enough. Enjoy your bike and fix it when it is actually broken.

It does sound like its getting to much fuel, or the lack of air. Air filter ok? If it is you might need to have a compression check done to see how the piston rings are.

Always use premium gas. Do not use gas with Ethanol.

FYI >
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.

Please top rate this answer. Thanks!

is it an overflow from the carb? gas will only be in one of 2 tubes and they are the fuel line from the tank and the carb over flow. unless you have an electronic fuel pump then tubes go from tank to pump to carb. if its coming from the overflow then you are getting too much fuel into the carb float chamber. you may have a sticky float. thy getting some Berrymans B12 fuel additive and putting double the doseage in the tank. run engine til hot then leave it to stand overnight. this should break down any gum/varnish that has built up in the system

has this been in storage thru winter?

check the timing marks on the crank and cam make sure they are alligned at tdc

Hi again,

For some reason my initial post for clarification was deleted. In any case, any updates/developments?

Cheers.

Go to http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/576969-1979-honda-xr80-wiring/

depends if your doing a lot of short outings etc ! ? if the oil is black then change it , do 100km after oil change and check condition ! mite take a few oil changes to get clean unless your up to stripping the engine and clean everything !? if using for competition then its different again , change after each meeting as harder work out and need to keep quality of oil to max ! also the piston and rings are changed after every meeting , try and get the xr manuel as its got the periods of replacements etc !

check carb is clean and settings , check timing !

Could be coil or kill switch... check spark plug wire and contact by pulling off and checking if it will arc when held within 1/4" from a metal part close enough to reach... do this when dark so u can see the arc if and when it happens... if no arc then replace wire, then coil... Good luck

your carb. is gummed up. Get some carbeurator cleaner spray and spray it into the air intake as it is running until it clears up. if it wont clear up, you will have to have the carb rebuilt.

you sure that the needle isnt bent,

Hi There.
There is no bearing in the forks. you are trying to take aparts the triple trees.
to remove the front forks
jack bike up
remove front wheel
remove fender
loosen the clamps that go around the forks.
there are 2 triple trees, upper and lower , the upper has the nut your taking off, of course the lower is the bottom. both have clamps that hold the forks in.
then just pull and twist in a downward motion to get the forks out.

reinstallation is reverse steps.
note how much fork is sticking up through the hole in the top triple prior to removal.

if you do want to remove the triple trees and replace your neck bearings, you will have to cut the bottom bearing off, i've never been able to remove those bearings without ruiing them.
that bearing is a very tight fit.

Hope this helps you out.
thumbs up to the do-it-yourselfers
Best regards
Big Al