20 Most Recent 1996 Honda XR 600 R Questions & Answers

Ha ha Gregg again was helping, a little trick checking for air leaks in fuel/air issues, take some starting fluid and carefully and a little at a time, squirt each possible leak point with engine on, if you notice a change in the engine performance you found a leak. My hunch is the four boots from the bottom of the carbs to the motor. At the age of your bike all of the hoses and rubber components are way past their lifespan. I suspect you had the carbs apart more than once to clean the jets and float bowls and in this process removed the carbs and boots? If no leaks are found check your float needles, the floats themselves are not adjustable on these bike so if the needles are working freely and floats are not where they should be they are not serviceable and need new floats. Which I don't think is your issue.
Gregg is right, air leak most likely, is it seated good to motor and carbs? All those clamps secure on the boots? You will know with the starting fluid trick if this is indeed the issue. If this does resolve it, sync your carbs for sure, it's a fairly easy process with the ports pretty readily available on these motors and the sync kit needed is on Amazon and eBay pretty cheap. Some good how to vids on YouTube. I know there is a car 600 f3 sync video for sure that is the same four carb setup you have I believe. I don't think honda went fuel injected until 99 on those motors or real close to that. Let me know if you need any pointers or questions. I love those motors and carb setups on those bikes. It's all I run, and run them hard I do.

Sounds as if your charging system is down. (not putting a charge into the battery). Connect a voltage ohm meter to your battery while motorcycle is running, you should see about 13.8 volts on the meter as you rotate the throttle open a little bit. If however, the meter goes down from...let's say 12 volts to about 11 volt's then at that point you will have fiqured out that your alternator is not working properly. Also, don't forget to check that the electrolyte level in the battery is up to the proper line. (you know the fluid in the battery itself). Do not put tap water in battery as this will ruin it completly! Put distilled water or electrolytic acid into it.Good luck my friend,kd4rua

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If the bike has adequate power just go ahead and ride it. Chances are it will get better from use. The rings are probably sticking in the ring grooves creating the low compression. A shot of WD-40 in each spark plug hole, left sitting overnight may help the free up the rings. The brand of oil does not matter much. Just be certain to NOT use synthetics or oils with "Special" additives. They can swell or shrink the cork on the clutch friction plates. Now you need new plates.

have you looked at your aircleaner?

hi do you mean price to fit timing chain
does the engine still run or has the chain broken?

Make sure you put them in right

Hello this sounds like you have a transmission problem than a clutch problem.
The cogs on the gear or gears are worn and under load they are pushing out of their locked position.
A slipping clutch will not suddenly engage disengage quickly.

intake 0.10 mm / .004 in

exhaust 0.12 mm / .005 in

try denniskirk.com

You need to assess to what level is the fork bent,if the metal on the chrome of fork is twisted then you need a new one else you will have to remove the forks completely,remove the tyre and get one of the fork tube out and go to machine shop they can use a hydrolic press to straighten it.And there you go!!Forks is back on..Please note you have to align the forks by twisting the steering..

28 to 30 thousandths.

Go to the site below and download a free service manual. You can determine for yourself how involved the project will be, based on your ability. Your manual is near the bottom of the Yamaha list.

http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

It sounds like the cylinder head is pretty well beat. I would suggest you put a different head on the bike. Google " motorcycle salvage honda ". Find a salvage head there. You may want to pick up a cylinder also because if the head is that beat then the cylinder has probably been bored several times in the past and has limited lifespan. Don't forget the spark arrestor.

If you pull the beaten head off, the shop will need to do the valves anyway. That's the main cost. Just switching heads is something you can probably do with a manual at hand. When you are on the web, check out the cost of the whole engine. Now you have spare parts galore > clutch, shafts, gears, shift forks, kick start, etc.. Your bike is nearly 20 years old. Parts get harder to find as time goes by.

Granted that you are buying somewhat blind, so try to get in verbal contact with the seller. You want to be confident in the purchase. Chances are you can get an entire engine for $300 to $400 plus shipping. Also consider selling the bike on an "as is, where is " basis. This would give you a chance to cut your losses. I know you have some pretty tough decisions to make and I hope these thoughts and ideas will help you in those decisions.

Please rate this solution. Thanks rayzee2000!

hello
the reccomended oil from honda is their GN4. this is a motorcycle blend 10w40. so other 10w40 motorcycle blend oils will work as well. i would stick with hondas oil. but other companies like bel-ray are a good alternative as well.
with an oil and filter change you are looking at approx. 2 us quarts of oil. manual states 2.06 quarts. so may take either a touch more or a touch less.
hope this is helpful. thank you.

Dear Craig,
Presuming that the carb is clean !
It seems that you have either set the float level incorrectly, or allowed the needle to become jammed. The float bowl should a little less than 3/4 full of fuel when the fuel is shut off by the needle and seat.
Check that the needle and seat are working correctly by blowing in the fuel pipe, and then closing the needle by hand. Check that the flow is stopped when the needle is fully raised.
The needle and seat do need to replaced from time to time, but generally last well.
If the needle and seat work, then look at the float level.
Further check to see that the floats are not filling with fuel. If this is the case, then the floats will have to be replaced as most repairs are only temporary.
When the floats are fuel logged the needle will not be raised and fuel flow to the carb will be continuous.

I had a 97 900rr that did the same thing, give it a tune up and make sure your choke cable is functioning correctly and it'll start with little problems when it's cold.

Check the wiring from the fuse box to the light itself it can be that the wire is loose

The charging system is over charging or you are putting the wrong replacement bulb in. My first thought is that the rectifier has burned out or somehow other malfunction. You will also need to check the battery as a malfunction in the rectifier will over charge the battery and actually boil the liquid (acid) out of it.

it should, this is one of those try it and see situations, youve allready done the hard work now its time to play... HAVE FUN If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_00678fd4800d19c5