20 Most Recent 2008 Harley Davidson FLTR Road Glide Questions & Answers

Hi, I ride a 1984 shovelhead flh. My riding style seems to be like yours. A couple of things that I did on my bike to help with vibration were to install the polyurethane riser busings and use some cushioned grips. These solid mount shovels will have some vibes. If your engine is well balanced and you use loctite on your fasteners it should help cut down on the vibes. Also make sure that your steering head bearings and swingarm bearings are good because they can have an adverse affect on handling. I know that others who are more knowledgeable will also make some great suggestions. I have been hanging around and looking at these posts for a while and just decided to join. Also i think that if you stay with the rear chain setup you will have more and less expensive final gear ratio options to play with. My bike runs the 32 tooth front pulley and a 70 tooth rear belt setup and could use a little taller top end at 75 but it works for me with little vibration. Reducing the rpm's at higher speeds will certainly make your ride more comfortable.Good luck on your project.

Hi, Chuck for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.roadglide.org/threads/torque-values-for-2015-road-glide-front-end.330841/http://www.mediafire.com/file/3cgdm3cieoo7fy3/2015_Harley_Davidson_Touring_Models_Service_Manual.pdfhttp://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/road-glide-2015-owners-manual-66848https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Bettr fix cover..gut a compression leak..inspect whole vehicle. Ignition tune and leak test on injectors if need

Start by disconnecting the starter solenoid small connector and bring 12 VDC directly to the small wire solenoid terminal. If the starter then operates you will know that there is no problem with the starter but with either the low or the medium current circuits. If the starter does not work when you do this you either have a bad starter or solenoid or a poor battery to starter cable or ground etc. If you then test for battery voltage at the wire end of the solenoid small wire end that you removed from the starter by using a voltmeter on it while you press the starter button with the ignition and run switches and you do not get a good 12 VDC reading you will know there is a problem with the low current starter circuit. If the low current circuit is good you should also hear the starter relay click when you press the starter button with the ignition and RUN switches ON. If there is no small click from the starter relay first check the starter fuse and if that is okay there should be 12 VDC to the 30 terminal on the starter relay with the ignition switch ON and the run stop switch in RUN . If there is not then you will have to find out why not. If there is power to the 30 terminal there should also be power to the 85 or 86 terminal (86 is usually the ground but it seems it is not always and sometimes it is the 85 that is the ground). When you press the starter switch if the low current circuit which is through 85 and 86 is good it should pull down the internal relay contact and allow power from the 30 terminal through to the 87 terminal which is the wire out to the starter solenoid small terminal. If the starter relay does not activate you will need to find out why not. If there is power to the 30 and either the 85 or 86 and the other ie the 86 or the 85 has good continuity to ground then the relay is bad and needs to be replaced. If there is no power to the 30 terminal and therefore also either the 85 or the 86 there is either a bad starter fuse or ignition switch or run stop switch or the starter button OR the wiring between them.

The Harley fuel injection system is limited in the amount of adjustment it can make on it's own. Usually when aftermarket exhaust (or just mufflers) and air cleaner assemblies are added, it tends to lean the mixture out, due to better ir flow. One way to correct this is to take it to the dealership, and they can hook it up to their computer and make adjustments (called a SERT). Another way is to add a "piggy-back" unit, like the "Power Commander". This unit plugs into the wiring, and "fools" the onboard computer (ECM) to richen the mixture. The Power Commander normally comes with a series (usually 4) of dials that need to be adjusted. For best results, time on a Dynometer is needed to get it right, though you can get close through the "seat of the pants" method, and plug readings. Some units on the market (like Terry Components) read off the O2 sensors, and using that info, "fools" the ECM to richen up the mixture.

There is actually a Federal recall on this issue: "DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE FUEL FILTER SHELL FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON JULY 31, 2008. OWNERS MAY CONTACT HARLEY DAVIDSON AT 1-414-343-4056." From the phone number above, Harley can look up (by your VIN) if the recall has been performed or not. If not, then the dealership MUST perform the work for free! You can look it up yourself (in case you don't believe me) http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchSafetyIssues From the above link, put in your YEAR/MAKE/MODEL and it will show any recalls against them.