2006 Harley Davidson FXDBI Street Bob - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If you are gonna work on your own Harley, shell out the $60.00 for an H-D manual. They have a basic wiring diagram inside.

Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics ,,,

In the 1997 service manual. Order one from H-D

I do not understand your question. I am unaware of any oil pressure reading on an oil filler.

Under what conditions???? What DTCs are set???????????? Possibly IAC, is p0505 set???

When the ignition switch is ON the fuel gauge is connected to 12 VDC, current flows through the gauge and the variable resistor in the fuel gauge sending unit to ground. The sending unit float controls the amount of resistance in the variable resistor. Malfunctioning fuel gauges may be the result of a fuel gauge sender or a fuel gauge not being properly grounded OR there may be a defect in the fuel gauge sender or in the fuel gauge itself OR there may be an open circuit caused by a loose or disconnected connection or a broken wire between the ignition switch to the fuel gauge. A suspect fuel gauge system can be tested by FIRST removing the gauge and grounding the Y/W wire of the fuel gauge sender located at the bottom of the gauge, turning the ignition switch ON at which point the fuel gauge must indicate FULL. And if it does so then the fuel gauge is functioning correctly.And if it does not read FULL then get a multimeter set to the RX1 scale and measure the resistance of the sending unit by placing one of the meter probes on the Y/W wire and the other probe on a good ground. THEN for Softail if the fuel tank is full, the reading should be 27-40 ohms. an empty tank should have a 240-264 ohm resistance and a half full tank will be approximately 97-118 ohms. FOR ALL MODELS if there is a very highmeter resistance or infinity reading the sender may be "open" or not grounded. In this case check to see if the sender and fuel tank are grounded by placing one of the ohmmeter probes on the flange of the sender and the other probe on crankcase and if the ground is good the meter must indicate one ohm or less and if the reading is one ohm or less the sender is defective and requires replacement and if a higher resistance reading is obtained you will need to check for a poor ground wire. THENyou can check the voltage to the O/W (+) wire and the BK (-) wire of the fuel gauge connector if the gauge did not indicate FULL and the correct reading will depend on the source voltage and the level of fuel in the tank or the position of the sender float arm on the variable resistor etc. If there is NO battery voltage present there may be a broken, highly corroded or disconnected power wire. If you cannot find a problem using the above testing replace the gauge itself.

2006 DYNA 1 US quart or imperial??? Should be 32 oz .95 litre In nay case ONLY fill to bottom of clutch diaphragm spring What kind of oil did you use???

Could be the IAC Is code P0505 set. What other codes ares set, if any???

To change the oil or to rebuild a 2007 DYNA front fork FIRST raise and support the motorcycle so that the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove the brake caliper and the front wheel, remove the front fender, loosen the pinch bolt screws, do not remove the tube caps, slide the fork sides downward clear of the fork brackets, repeat the procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly. To disassemble a 2007 DYNA front fork clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in a fork tube holder tool mounted horizontally in a vise, use a 12mm Allen wrench is needed to loosen but do not remove the seat pipe screw, while the internal components are still under tension and less prone to rotate, on the right fork tube and slider assembly, remove the axle holder to access the seat pipe screw, remove the fork tube cap and its o-ring, remove the long spring collar, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool and invert it over a suitable container to catch the fork oil and allowing thefork to drain, extend and retract the slider several times to push oil out of the internal fork components, the washer, and the spring will fall out of fork tube. THEN clamp the fork tube in the fork tube holder tool, remove the slider cover from the slider by inserting a brass drift into the notch in the slider and lightly tapping the cover loose, compress the stopper ring and remove the stopper ring from the groove in the top of the slider bore, Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving the spring preload or the caps and springs may fly out. THEN remove the seat pipe screw and its washer from the bottom of the slider and retain them for reuse, withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube (the bushing guide is a slight interference fit in the slider), then using the slider as a slide hammer, hit the bushing with the bushing guide with a quick continuous stroke until the slider is pulled free from the fork tube, drain the slider and allow the stop oil lock piece to fall free. (If you are only changing the oil or replacing the slider the remaining parts can be left assembled and the fork re-assembled) If it is still attached to the seat pipe remove the stop oil lock piece from the lower end of the seat pipe, remove the seat pipe piston and the ring assembly, remove the rebound spring, remove the oil seal, remove the seal spacer, and remove the bushing guide. Repeat the foregoing procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly. Thoroughly clean and inspect each part and if and as necessary replace any corroded, worn, bent, broken or otherwise damaged parts, inspect the fork tube bushing and the slider guide bushing and replace if and as required, always replace all oil seals and all o-rings, check the dust cover where it rubs on the fork tube (it should have a good and continuous seal and not show excessive wear, check the fork tube where it rubs on dust the cover and the tube should show a bright, shiny surface, free of scoring or abrasions, if any spring(s) is/are broken they must be replaced, if a fork tube or slider is bent or damaged it must also be replaced now, replace all other worn or damaged components if and as necessary. To assemble a 2007 DYNA fork FIRST insert the seat pipe assembly with the spring into the slider tube, slide the bushing guide down to the bushing on the fork tube, follow it with the spacer, the oil seal, the stopper ring, the dust shield and the slider cover, install the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, fit the lower stop onto the seat pipe, slide the seat pipe back into the fork tube until the seat pipe is centered in the tube, gently install the slider assembly onto the slider tube and the bushing, thread the seat pipe screw and washer into the seat pipe through the bottom of the slider assembly, draw the fastener into the seat pipe but do not tighten it at this time, verify the proper action of the fork by moving the slider up and down the fork tube, locate the appropriate fork seal driver over the fork tube in front of the oil seal with the fork seal chamfered lips facing the oil in the fork, in the following order assemble thetop oil seal, the spacer and the bushing guide into the slider bore, install the stopper ring into its groove above the oil seal, push the dust seal against the oil seal and stopper ring, rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. THEN operate the slider through its full range of travel several times to verify alignment and proper smooth operation, then pulling down on the slide to apply downward force on the rebound spring, tighten the seat pipe screw to 106-159 in-lbs (12-18 Nm), vertically re-position the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool and with the slider tube compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL until it is approximately the amount specified below for the type or motorcycle and fork that it is. a. FXDWG- approximately 29.6 oz (875 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.4 in (112 mm); and b. All other Dyna models- approximately 26.6 oz (787 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.3 in (110 mm) THEN slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to remove air from the fork assembly and fully compress the slider to properly measure the oil level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, with the spacer and the spring removed and the fork fully compressed, then using an appropriate oil level gauge tool adjust the oil level to appropriate level for the fork type and model, pull out the slider and install the spring in the fork tube with the tightly wound end at the bottom, install the washer and the spring collar, carefully to avoid cross threading, install the fork tube cap with a new o-ring and tighten it to 16-43 ft-lbs (22-58 Nm). Repeat the process for the other fork tube and slider assembly. To install the fork in a 2007 DYNA FIRST insert the fork tube and the slider assemblies up through the lower triple clamp and the upper triple clamp so that the fork tubes will protrude above the upper triple clamp 0.450-0.500 in. (11.4-12.7 mm) with the measurement taken at the midpoint of the fork tube between the top surface of the triple clamp and the top of the fork cap and when properly positioned tighten the pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (41- 48 Nm), install the front fender and bracket, install the front brake caliper(s), install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks.

Short spacer on the right side, longer one on the left side.

I have never seen seals replaced without dismantling the forks. The seal will come in a fork revbuild kit whether the bushings etc are used or not. Obtained separately but necessary in any case are new lower fork bolts and copper washers. I suppose it might be possible to get the seal out of the fork leg without completely dismantling the fork but the normal way of removing the seal is to use the slider as a slider hammer tool to drive the upper bushing and seal from the fork leg which requires removal of the lower bolt and washer and pretty much fully dismantling the fork. You will also need a special fork holder tool or at the least a pair of vise soft jaws and it is critical how much fork oil is added back into the fork as too much will make the ride unacceptably hard and too little will allow the fork to compress too much and be too soft. You also really need an appropriate seal installer to reinstall the seal and upper bushing etc. All that being said:

Post your question under VESPA

You can download a manual cheap on this site then you will have all the info you need check it out http://harley-davidson.service-manual-download.com

You need a parts book schematic, service manual does not really show much. Right side insert axle through adjusters in swingarm then brake caliper support arm then short spacer then into bearing in wheel then there is a spacer in the hub between that bearing and the left bearing so then through those and out left side through long spacer into swingarm and adjuster and then out left side of swingarm, install washer, cone nut and then "E" clip.

Get hold of a service manual OR go to dealer and ask for photocopy of the relevant parts breakdown picture page. Right side you have axle going through swing arm into a short spacer, through right wheel bearing, internal spacer, left wheel bearing out the left side through a longer spacer, and then the swing arm and then on the axle you will have a washer, cone nut and an "E" clip. Inside the swing arm ends you have the belt adjustment pieces that normally would not come out of the swing arm ends. And of course on the right side you would also have the brake caliper mounting and support arm.

5/8 inch hex plug

Remove console, disconnect electrical connectors, remove vent hose, remove and discard screws and washers and open fuel tank top to access and remove fuel pump and float modules, pull the removal tab towards the rear of the bike to disengage the sender unit from the mounting tabs and remove the sender unit but be careful not to bend the float arm while removing the sender because a bent float arm will give inaccurate fuel gauge readings.

1/4 inch 12 point socket for pads and if you need to take off the cliper which is not necessary to just change pads, 10mm 12 point swocket.and

Determine if it is the fuel sender that is the problem and if it is pull the fuel pump/sender unit out of the fuel tank and replace necessary parts.