20 Most Recent 2004 Harley Davidson FXDWG - FXDWGI Dyna Wide Glide Questions & Answers

your oil drain is on the right side pipe side of your bike look under near the rear back part of your frame you will see a plug with a one quarter allen key threaded plug style bolt kinda hidden in bridge plate of frame it is flat in conjuction with line on bike it is in area right behind where your back pipe expands to baffle of pipe where its skinny and then gets bigger its the one closest to you

I'll bet you've got that vacuum operated petcock on your bike too. Not saying this is the problem but I've seen more problems with them than I care to mention. They're only on carburetur equipped bikes. You didn't say which you had but if you've got one, I'd check it out.

You can drain the tank and remove the petcock. Check the condition of the screen filter that is in the tank. On the backside of the petcock, the should be a small vacuum hose connected to the petcock. Take this hose and the fuel hose loose. On the backside of the petcock is square plate held on by four screws. Remove the screws and lift the plate. There is a diaphragm, a small spring, and a needle in there. Take the needle out and use compressed air to blow everything out, Rotate the fuel selector lever and make sure both the on and reserve position is clear in the petcock. Now, hold the diaphragm up to the light and stretch is slightly. Look for holes. If you find a hole, replace the diaghragm. If not, reassemble the petcock.

The vaccum hose that supplies vacuum to the petcock is very small. It comes off a large hose that supplies vacuum to the VOES switch under the top tube of the frame. The vacuum is supplied by a nipple on the backside of the carburetor. Check this hose for cracks or being unplugged.

What I suggest is that you replace the petcock with a high quality manually operated petcock. I like the Pingle petcocks. They're expensive but well worth the money. You'll have to get into the habit of turning your fuel off when you stop the bike like the "old school bikers" do. Just a precaution in the event a piece of trash gets in the needle and seat of your carb.

Now, there are other things that could be causing this. A bad gas cap for one. If the vent in your gas cap is bad, a vacuum will build up in the tank and starve the carb for fuel. you can test it in either of two ways. Loosen the cap (don't take it all the way off) and ride the bike. If the problem goes away, buy a new gas cap. Or, the shop method of testing them when you don't have time to ride the bike. Take the cap off, wipe off as much gasoline as you can, stick the threaded part in your mouth and **** and blow on it. If you can **** air and blow air through the cap, it's fine. Now, go find the Scope mouthwash or everyone will call you "Gasoline Breath" for the rest of the day.

If your bike is fuel injected, you might want to check the electric fuel pump. Other than that, I can't help you with the fuel injection. I know nothing about it as Harley is very secretive about that.

Good Luck
Steve

Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. In early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. Finally, most tail light wiring harnesses run under the rear fender held in place by spot-welded clips. Worn out rear shocks or lowered suspension can bottom out causing the rear tire to come in contact with the wiring harness, rubbing the insulation off, exposing the bare metal inner core, allowing it to break or short out.For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/492188-need-help-no-brake-lights-turn-signal-or-horn.htmlhttp://www.mediafire.com/file/f27bphwsjkq26y6/2004_Harley_Dyna_Service_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/dyna-wide-glide-2005-owners-manual-66390https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Check your spark plugs, they are quite fragile & yoy may have a crack in the ceramics. Replacement is recommended.

try cleaning the Air Idle Control valve...take your air filter etc off and look into the throttle body...in the 12 o clock position before the butterfly plate there is a hole where the aic lives...you can usually see and hear it move when powering the bike up.You'll need to use a torch to inspect it
give it a good clean with injection or carb cleaning spray and make sure it moves freely

the alarm is active and you need to press the fob button twice to deactivate

Is that original equipment relay...some aftrmarkets are poorly made. The alternator or voltage reg are probly worn from age or the bike wireharness needs inspect for overload

The fuses are located behind the left side cover.