20 Most Recent 2004 Harley Davidson VRSCA V-Rod Questions & Answers

Please provide some more information and if possible a history of when it worked and when it stopped and how it stopped ie bottom of gauge, high end, middle etc.

As the clutch wears the fluid level in the reservoir will rise so the initial fluid level should not exceed the FILL LEVEL. And the motorcycle must be upright and the handlebars set to level the fluid in the clutch reservoir.

When filling an empty clutch fluid line, a VACUUM BRAKE BLEEDER with a fitting that mates to the secondary clutch actuator bleeder screw threads can be used to draw the fluid down the clutch line and the air out of the system.

Take off the clutch fluid reservoir cover and then initially loosen the banjo bolt just enough to allow air bubbles to escape. Be careful because clutch fluid under pressure can squirt a steady stream a long way.

Hold the reservoir cover in place and pump the clutch hand lever 5 times or so and then hold the clutch hand lever against the handlebar and with a shop towel under the fitting loosen the banjo bolt and watch fro air bubbles to be released and then retighten the banjo fitting and only after it is tight release the hand lever. Check and refill the reservoir with fluid to the FILL LEVEL line and repeat the previous step three or more times and until only a steady flow of clutch fluid without air bubbles escapes from the banjo fitting at all times keeping the clutch fluid level in the reservoir at the FILL LEVEL with motorcycle in an upright position.

THEN remove the secondary clutch actuator cover, cover the exhaust pipe(s) with towels and place a suitable pan under the right side case to catch excess clutch fluid THEN while holding the reservoir cover in place pump the clutch hand lever 5 or more times, then hold the clutch hand lever against the handlebar and loosen the secondary clutch actuator bleed screw and watch the bleed screw for air bubbles. When the hand lever touches the hand grip hold it there without releasing it until the bleed screw has been tightened again and then release the hand lever., refill the fluid reservoir to the FILL LINE and repeat the previous steps, always keeping the fluid reservoir full of fluid, until a steady stream of fluid with no air bubbles coming from the bleed screw. When there is no more air coming out leave the bleeder screw tight and fill the reservoir with fluid to the FILL LINE.AUTION

THEN test pressure by squeezing clutch hand lever repeatedly does not build pressure in the hand lever and the fluid level does not remain at the FILL LINE then there is a leak somewhere and it will have to be located and fixed. If there is no visible leak check the secondary clutch actuator boot for leakage.

When there is no evidence of leakage and the clutch lever works properly and the fluid in the reservoir is at the FILL LINE install the reservoir cap and insert and tighten the fasteners to 0.7-0.9 Nm (6-8 in-lbs); the reservoir banjo bolt to 23-31 Nm (17-23 ft-lbs); the bleed screw to 9-11 Nm (80-100 in-lbs); the secondary clutch actuator cover fasteners to 6-10 Nm (53-88 in-lbs) and then test ride the motorcycle.

If the clutch does not have correct pressure you may have a dragging clutch and/or hard shifting.

Fuse block is under the air box cover and the main fuse is under the front right side cover.

more likely it's the stator. with a fully charged battery, check with a meter on dc, battery shold be around 12.7 to 13 vdc. start bike should jump up to around 15 vdc. if it dosen't, statot is bad, if it does or goes much higher, regulator is bad. also check that nothing is touching on terminals of battery when running, like frame or other metal parts, that could drain a battery also.

All S&S carbs should idle out properly at 3/4 to 1 turn out. If not, the carb is not jetted correctly. If you were dealing with any other Harley besides a V-Rod, I could tell you the proper jetting but I've never even seen an S&S carb on a V-rod. Sorry.

Good Luck
Steve

1) Open seat.
2) Remove air filter cover.
3) Unsnap clips holding airbox cover on and remove top.
4) Unscrew air filter top and remove top and filter.
5) Remove 6 screws holding risers in place.
6) Carefully remove 2 risers and don't lose the screws.
7) Remove lower airbox structure. Dont forget to remove air line at rear of air box.
8) Optional, remove right side cover and remove main fuse.
9) Remove positive and negative power leads.
10) Roll back rubber strap.
11) Pull out battery towards rider position.
That's it. To reinstall just reverse process with the fuse being the last step.
I am shopping for a new battery right now and the best option seems to be Apex.
Here is the link to the Apex battery. http://www.apexbattery.com/harley-davidson-1130cc-vrsc-v-rod-motorcycle-battery-2002-2006-motorcycle-batteries-harley-davidson-.html

when you shut the bike off if you are on the throttle at all that is where the isc will reset for 4 ignitions it is located on top of the induction module

I assume you are talking about running the wiring internal of the new handlebars and you need to know how to pull the wires through the them. You need to get a "fish tape" through the bars. The easiest way to get the fish tape into the bars is to start off by getting a string through them.

Use a shop vacuum and connect it to one end of the bars. Plug the other end of the bars temporarily. Turn on the vacuum cleaner and feed a string in from the hole in the center of the bars. If the bars are not too rough on the inside, the string will be sucked out the end of the bars.

Once you get the string through the bars, form a loop on the end of a scrap piece of wire and use the string to pull it through the bars. Now, use the wire to pull the switch wiring through the handlebar.

You may want to put some type of "sleeving" over the switch wiring so that you don't skin the insulation off the wires as you pull them through the handlebars.

Good Luck!!

If this were my bike I would change air filter, fuel filter (if it has one) and spark plugs. Then I would run a full bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in a full tank of fuel and ride it. Just replacing the filters and plugs may fix it. Techron is great stuff for bikes, much better than Seafoam.

Carburetors supply a mixture of gasoline and air to the engine. The gas comes out of little things called “jets” (usually a pilot jet, needle jet and main jet). If you modify your airbox or exhaust to flow more freely, you get more air going through your system. This often means that there is not enough gasoline, so the engine runs badly. “Rejetting” means replacing or modifying some of these jets so as to supply gasoline differently than stock, usually more gasoline than stock. If done correctly, this allows your engine to generate more power, run a little cooler, start and run smoother and get worse mileage.