2003 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide Standard - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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You likely have a shorted lighting relay, points burnt/stuck together in which case you will need a new relay.

No, it is not a standard 7" automotive lamp. The automotive lamp can be used in an emergency but the bulb can't take the beating that a motorcycle puts on it. The bulb for your bike is sort of "heavy duty" so that it can withstand the harsher ride.

How many ML?Looks like an umbrella valve under the rocker gasket need to be changed!

First thing, pull the negative wire off the battery terminal.Unplug the wires at the starter, noting their location(s).Drawings or photos will help.Drain primary and remove outer cover.Remove bolt on end of starter gear, and remove starter gear, spring,spacer, etc.Unbolt starter(two bolts) and remove starter.

If it's carbed, check your slow jet, it may be clogged.

Well there is a nut that holds on to a rubber mount usely chrome undo it there will be 2 wires 1 ground 1 power un plug note placement install new horn in reverse..good luck ..ps some older bikes do not have a direct ground but a strap that goes from 1 side of rubber mount to the other,,,

There are several things that could be the cause....right rotor could be warped or the caliper pistons could be sticking....I would have the brakes overhauled

Take the screw off from the bottom of the beauty ring and pull it out/up to remove it. Remove the 3 screws from the headlamp retaining ring and take the retaining ring off. The headlamp is now unsecured. Unplug the connector from the back of the headlamp and remove the headlamp. Assemblre in the reverse order.

contact me directly at [email protected] I'll send you some info on your fuel gauge.

Ride Safe
steve

Before you tear into it, can you get it jumped to see if it is the starter or the battery? The battery , even at 12.5v, should crank it over, a clicking sound is not that of a bad starter but a week battery. I would suspect the battery, if you can get it out, check the water level and the check the electrolyte condition in each cell. I am not familiar with the removal of your starter, but would check the battery first. Hope this helps.

Test the primary coil resistance on your coil. Disconnect all the wires going to the small terminals on your coil. Using a good ohm meter, test the resistance between the two small terminals. You should read somewhere between 2 and 3 ohms. If you read more, the coil is bad.

You can also test the coil by leaving the "hot" wire on the coil and replace the other side with a short piece wire. Turn the ignition on and temporarily ground the short piece of wire you put on the "out" side. When you take the wire away from ground, you should see a spark at the plugs.

Good Luck
Steve

Yes this is a real problem with all Harley's but there is an easy for it.
Remove the vent line that runs from each cylinder head to the carburetor, its a metal "Y" with 2 banjo fittings on it where it attached to the top of the cylinders. You can do one of two things here; buy 2 new banjo fittings that have 5/16" hose nipples on them, or you can use what you have and salvage the banjo fittings from the "Y" that you just removed. If you use the old fittings leave about 1" of the old line in place for your new hose. You will also need a 5/16" Tee fitting and about 4' of 5/16" hose. Assemble the banjo fittings, the 5/16" Tee and 5/16" hose to form a new "Y". Then attach the top of the "Y" to the top of the cylinders and run the long end of the "Y" down from the cylinders heads and forward. Follow the front of th motor and run the hose along the bottom right frame rail. I run mine out to the right side of the lower swing arm and then let about 4" of hose hang down at about 20 degrees.
Just take your time running the hose and conceal it the best that you can. Once this is done clean up the mess that the old system left and you will never have oil all over you and the right side of the bike again.
Regards Outback

1. did you have something installed recently that required you to take off the housings by your grips. This is usually the reason, a pinched wire under the housing. Though I would trace the wiring from inside the fairing to the fuse block.

Heres a test. Take off the front fairing, unplug all connectors inside. Replace the fuse and make sure it doesnt blow. Slowly with the bike on, start pluging in connectors keeping close eye and track of what your doing. Once you plug in a connector and the fuse blows again, you know which harness you need to look for pinches and shorts.

Also is your check engine light going off on start up and turning back on?? this would mean you have an active code.

Should be under the seat. remove the seat and see if isn't directly below the ride seat.

tighten riser bolts or the two bolts holding the bars onto the riser.

Stand the bike straight up, Remove the derby cover. Fill the primary up with oil until the oil barely touches the lower edge of the clutch spring. The clutch spring is a flat dark colored piece of metal inside the bright aluminum clutch outer shell. Do Not overfill. If you do, your clutch will drag and you will not be able to find neutral with the engine running.

Good Luck
Steve

I don't think I've ever seen a transmission main shaft warp. We're talking a substancial piece of steel here. But, I would guess anything can happen. My guess right off would be either of two things, extreme abuse or a wreck in which the left side of the bike took a very hard lick. The clutch assembly would have to have been totally desroyed in the case of an accident. That's my best guess and that's exactly what this is, A GUESS.

Steve

heat from improper lubrication-is the oiling workin-chec it weekly thats a big air cooled motor puttin out alotta heat

The plug to plug into is under the seat.