20 Most Recent 2003 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Hugger - Page 9 Questions & Answers

coil or ground

This does not sound like an HD question? Is it?

I wonder if there is a blockage at the filter or gas line going to carb, is the line pinched?

I'm thinkin' you have a safety switch that needs adjusting

Sounds as tho you have a dead short but it could be a relay too

Check plug wire and it also needs a spark signal, from pickup, points or the like.

I have a 1997 Suzuki 1400 Intruder. It has no spark. I have changed the ignition module and the pick-ups but still no spark. Looking for potential solutions before I part it out.

you left out thde CDI,have it checked out

Try new spark plugs

it will be a bad earth / connection to the flasher unit check all male and female connectors

Are the new turn signals LEDs?If so, because of their lower draw, they won't work properly (not flash) without the installation of a "load equalizer":http://www.jpcycles.com/product/380-018

Yes, a Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Hugger DOES have a rear fender.Now, what's your question?

You can buy a tool (though I made mine) for this, with is basically a "U" shaped piece of metal with a magnet on each end, to hold the lifter up:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Magnetic-Cam-Lifter-Holder-Tool-for-High-Performance-Lifters-/130861475528?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e77f3a6c8&vxp=mtrBUT, a Sportster has individual cams for each valve, so a magnet small enough to fit down into the lifter guide block, and powerful enough to hold the lifter up, should do.

Usually the VOES switch is located between the cylinders right on the top engine mount. It's a black thing with two wires and a vacuum line coming off of it. On the later models, the VOES may be mounted a bit higher. The vacuum line for the VOES and the vacuum operated petcock (if it's the original petcock) comes off the backside of the carburetor, not the air filter. If the hose goes to the backside of the air filter, it's likely something to do with the emissions system. It probably routes evaporative vapors from the fuel tank to the air filter to be run through the engine. To see what the VOES switch looks like, go to http://www.bikebandit.com and put the information on your bike in and look under electrical section.

Good Luck
Steve

The first thing I'd check is the fuel flow. Pull the fuel line off the carb and turn the petcock on. Watch the flow of fuel coming out of the hose to see if it's a good flow. Next, what type of exhaust system is on the bike? If it's got open drag pipes on it, the engine probably needs a bit more back pressure. The old Ironheads were notorious for having a "dead spot" at about 55 mph with open drag pipes. Most drag pipes have a hole on the backside for a bolt that held the baffles in them. If you have this hole, get a quarter inch diameter bolt that is about an inch and quarter long. Put the bolt into the pipe and thread three nuts on the bolt inside the pipe. Make sure the nuts are tight. Put one in each pipe. It's a cheap fix and works pretty well without changing the sound of the bike. Also, at about 55 mph, is where the carb changes over to running off the main jet in the carb. Your carb could be jetted wrong or have a piece of trash in the main jet. If the bike is running rich, it will run better with the air filter removed from the carb. If it's running lean, it'll run better if you roll back on the throttle like you said. I'd check all this stuff before I started buying ignition systems. That's an electrical part that the dealers cannot test and once you buy it, if it ain't the problem, they won't take it back. Harley Davidson ignition systems are pretty rugged and I've never seen a lot of problems out of them. That would be my last effort.

Good Luck
Steve

Check the magnetic end of the speedo sensor. This is the part that goes into the transmission. If the end is covered with metal filings, clean them off and reinstall the sensor. Ride the bike and check to see if this solves your problem.

It's inside the primary cover on the left side of the bike.

I would try adjusting the clutch.

If I'm thinking about the right thing, the clevis that is attached to the rear brake lever that the rod that goes to the rear brake master cylinder connects to, the clevis should have a pin connecting it to the rear brake lever. On the backside of the pin is either a cotter pin or a circlip holding the pin in. You may have to take the rear brake lever off to access the circlip or cotter pin.

Good Luck
Steve

Contact me directly at [email protected] and I'll send you a drawing for the oil lines. The fuel line simply runs from the petcock to the carb between the cylinders. Nothing special about it's routing.

Steve