20 Most Recent 2002 Harley Davidson FXSTB Night Train Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity, full make and model. Question moved from Cars and Trucks. Check the main fuse, and then you need to find out why it blew. https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+night+train+fuse+box+diagram ..

Remove the seat. You'll see it under there. It's the black plastic rectangle with 2 cables hooked to it on each side.

Remove any saddlebags or anything that hampers your access to the rear brake caliper. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper onto the brake caliper bracket and lift the caliper off the bracket.

The pads and all anti-rattle parts should stay on the caliper bracket. Pay particular attention to the way these parts are installed in the bracket. Replace all the old parts with new parts paying attention to how the new parts are put in the bracket. Make sure the rear pad is installed with the fiber side to the rotor, not the metal side. Don't laugh, I've seen it done more times that I care to remember.

Now, you have to get the piston compressed back into the caliper. I used either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers. Protect your paint and finish on your caliper by using rags or a couple pieces of wood or something. Once the piston is fully compressed into the caliper, carefully replace it back on the bracket being careful not to disturb the pads or parts. Install the two bolts and torque them to 25 foot pounds.

Now, slowly press the rear brake pedal repeatedly until you get a full firm pedal. Check the level of the brake fluid in your master cylinder. Add only the proper type of fluid called for on the top of the master cylinder cap. DO NOT MIX THE TYPE OF BRAKE FLUIDS. Check the brakes before riding the bike. Failure to insure proper brake operation prior to riding the bike can cause lose of control of the machine resulting in serious injury or death. Make sure you do this job correctly.

It might not have any fuel, in the carb even with a full tank if it's carburetor equipped. In 1996, Harley introduced a vacuum operated fuel petcock. These things give problems in the fact that they get a hole in the vacuum diaphragm and will not open allowing fuel to flow to the carb. Take your air filter off and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, crank the throttle grip to wide open. When you do this, watch the accelerator pump nozzle, the brass thingy just inside the mouth of the carb, to see if it squirts a shot of fuel into the carb. If it doesn't, you're float bowl is dry.

You can repair the petcock by draining the tank and taking it out. Remove the square plate from the backside. Take note of how the parts are placed in the petcock. Remove the diaphragm and hold it up to the light while gently stretching it while looking for a hole. Personally, I'd rather replace the petcock with a high quality manually operated petcock. You'll have to turn the fuel on and off old school style but you won't have any problems with the petcock anymore. You'll have to plug the vacuum hose as well.

Good Luck
Steve

If the starter spins but the engine does not turn over, the "overrunning clutch" inside your starter is bad and needs to be replaced. If you can do the job yourself, it would save you a lot of money to replace the clutch. If you are going to have to pay someone to repair the bike, it would be less expensive to simply replace the entire starter. Labor cost being what they are.

Now, if the engine turns over but won't start, you probably don't have a spark. This could be an electrical problem with the bike or it could be a problem caused by the security system if you have on.

Good Luck
Steve

Remove any saddlebags or anything that hampers your access to the rear brake caliper. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper onto the brake caliper bracket and lift the caliper off the bracket.

The pads and all anti-rattle parts should stay on the caliper bracket. Pay particular attention to the way these parts are installed in the bracket. Replace all the old parts with new parts paying attention to how the new parts are put in the bracket. Make sure the rear pad is installed with the fiber side to the rotor, not the metal side. Don't laugh, I've seen it done more times that I care to remember.

Now, you have to get the piston compressed back into the caliper. I used either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers. Protect your paint and finish on your caliper by using rags or a couple pieces of wood or something. Once the piston is fully compressed into the caliper, carefully replace it back on the bracket being careful not to disturb the pads or parts. Install the two bolts and torque them to 25 foot pounds.

Now, slowly press the rear brake pedal repeatedly until you get a full firm pedal. Check the level of the brake fluid in your master cylinder. Add only the proper type of fluid called for on the top of the master cylinder cap. DO NOT MIX THE TYPE OF BRAKE FLUIDS. Check the brakes before riding the bike. Failure to insure proper brake operation prior to riding the bike can cause lose of control of the machine resulting in serious injury or death. Make sure you do this job correctly.

The 07 bikes have the 02 sensors hat self adjust in cruise mode. The problem is that the mixture is real lean in this mode for EPA regs. When you add just slipons, the mixture will become a bit leaner and the 02 sensors will self adjust. Problem is they can only self adjust so much and are at the edge of the air fuel ratio that will give you a good running engine. With the addition of a fuel adjusting unit, whether it be a SERT or a PC III or TFI, the fuel will be richened up to a more workable ratio and the bike will run better and cooler. The Stage 1 intake is optional but consider the addition of the stage 1 with slip ons and a fueler of sorts will add about 10-12 HP and also TQ which will make the bike run better and a bit cooler also.

Have you recently (before this happened) washed your bike and sprayed (under pressure) your left handlebar switches (or maybe it was out in a really heavy rain)? The reason I say this is that water sometimes gets into your switch and will intermittently make contact. Every time it does it will either turn on or turn off your turn signal. The turn signal works like this: every time you push the switch it sends a +12 volt signal to your TSM (Turn Signal Module). This signal tells the TSM to start flashing the appropriate light (left switch/ left light, right switch/right light). When the switch is triggered the TSM will start counting 20 flashes. If your bike slow below 7 MPH it will pause the count until you start moving 8 MPH or more again. Once it has reached the 20 count it will turn off the signal. Another way it senses to turn off the signal is using the bank angle sensor (built into the TSM). If it senses that you leaned enough to make the turn, it turns off the flasher. Also, if you push the same turn signal switch again (while it is still flashing) it will turn off the turn signal (this is called the "Manual termination). Water in the switch (or a bad switch) can duplicate the condition of pushing the switch on due to vibration. Try hitting the top of your left switch housing a few times, with your hand/fist to simulate the road vibration with the key on, and see if that causes the problem. You could also try disconnection the switches connector to the main harness and see if that prevents the problem from happening. If either test works I would say it is the flasher switch in the handle bar switch housing. You may want to spray so compressed air or WD-40 into the actual switch (have to take the control housing apart to do this). Hope this helps you to find the problem.