20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic - Page 7 Questions & Answers

right side cover

It sounds as if the installed breaker is now failing. Brought on by heat as you well know. Rather than go to HD for another, go to a local auto parts store and see if they have one, it will be cheaper and maybe better quality. Bring in the one you suspect so they can match it.

Remve the speed sensor from the top right rear of the trans case and check to see if the magnet is full of debris. If it is, clean it off and reinstall it. Test ride the bike to see if this fixes the problem. If not, you either need a new sensor or the speedo is shot, It's usually the sensor.

might have power surged and burn't out a relay inside of the radio that goes to the speaker ,probubally a output relay.

tappet voice can be heard from engine, if the voice is comming from top end, try searcheing out a loose bolt, and tight it, it might stop, regards

13.8-14.2vdc should be about normal when riding and the charging system is working properly. Have you checked the voltage regulator?

the cable valve might be out of control or the speedometer needs to be service.

hiyahave you check the chain isnt either to tight or kinked as this will stop the clutch from working hope this helpsJohn

Try these for valve train noise:

1. Low oil pressure caused by oil feed pump not functioning
properly or oil passages obstructed.
2. Faulty hydraulic lifter(s).
3. Bent push rod(s).
4. Incorrect push rod length.
5. Rocker arm binding on shaft.
6. Valve sticking in guide.
7. Chain tensioning spring or shoe worn.
8. Cam(s), cam gear(s) or cam bushing(s) worn.
9. Cam timing incorrect.

Here is something a friend sent to me. I've never taken one of these switches out so I can't say for sure if this is correct but it's all I have.

Here's the procedure to remove the IGNITION /LIGHT KEY SWITCH AND FORK LOCK for a 2005 FLHT/C/U or FLTR (Domestic): Tools needed for removing ignition switch A T27 Torx, a small flat blade screwdriver, 7/8 wrench.

1. Remove the outer fairing and windshield

2. To remove the ignition switch, insert the ignition switch key and turn to the UNLOCK position. Leaving the key installed, rotate the knob to ACCESS. Depressing the release button at bottom (left side) with a small screwdriver, push key down and turn an additional 60 degrees in a counter-clockwise direction. Lift and remove knob.

3. Using a 7/8 wrench on flats, loosen switch nut and remove from threaded post of ignition switch housing. Remove collar and spacer.

4. Using a T27 TORX drive head, remove the two screws (with flat washers) that secure fairing cap to left and right sides of fairing.

5. Remove the switch position plate by pulling tabs from slots in faring cap. If necessary, raise the fairing cap slightly to facilitate removal.

6. With the forks turned fully to the left, disconnect the Fairing cap switch connector (105) 12-place Multilock (black), from behind right side of fairing cap. Depress the button on the plus side of the connector to pull apart the pin and socket halves.

7. Remove the fairing cap from the motorcycle.

8. Locate the ignition switch connector (33), 4-place Packard, at bottom of radio. Slide connector off anchor and separate pin and socket halves.

9. Remove the socket screws (with flat washers) and lift the switch housing from the upper fork bracket bore. Route the ignition switch connector to rear of inner fairing and remove switch housing from the vehicle.

Three quarts. Check the oil with the bike on the sidestand. Start the engine and allow it to run for 15 seconds. Shut it down and check the oil. There sre two lines on the dipstick. The top line is "FULL HOT" and the lower line is "FULL COLD". As long as the oil is between the two lines, do not add oil.

Good Luck
Steve

Try replacing the flasher module (relay).

buy a repair manual for details-fixya hasum---clymer and haynes are popular----chec library sec629

I don't know about your particular bike because I can't see it but I have seen this type of damage done by pulling the front end down too tightly while transporting a bike on a trailer. If someone uses those "rachet type" straps and the bike is equipped with an oil cooler on the frame downtubes or one of those "chins" that cover the front engine mount, it is possible to pull the front end down far enough to cause the cooler or chin to get into the back of the fender. But, as for your particular bike, the only way to know for sure is to pull it down and see if it will touch. If the front forks bottom out before it touches, then it won't do it.

Good Luck
Steve

You stator output is an AC voltage that is rectified by the regulator turning it into a DC voltage to charge the battery. I am not familiar with the later model bikes with the Twin Cam engines. However. if there are only two wires in the plug that plugs to the stator, it does not make any difference which wire goes where into the plug. The only wire that does make a difference is the wire that goes to the battery with is the DC output of the regulator. Usually that wire is a larger diameter wire due to the larger gauge wire and heavier insulation on it.

Good Luck
Steve

Sitting on the bike the key goes in under the right hand side of the Fuel Tank.

The EPA requires that all crankcase vented air pressure be run through the engine to be burned. In order to comply with this, the crankcase vented air is vented through a hole in each head and is carried to the air filter by large hollow bolts called "union bolts". There is one on either side of the air filter element. Since the vented air has an oil mist in it, this mist will eventually build up in the air cleaner and drip out or be blown out by the wind. You should clean this buildup out of the air filter assembly regularily. If the build up is excessive, it could be due to excessive crankcase pressure due to wear in the rings or it could be caused by the umbrella seals in the center rocker box cover not sealing well. Replacing the umbrella seals is simply but it requires the removal of the rocker box covers. To get the covers off, you'll have to remove the fuel tank.

Good Luck
Steve

what pressure are you running in your rear shocks
check your manual for your psi settings depending on your weight and or passenger weight

Usually these bolts are 1/4" X 20 threads per inch socket head bolts that use a 3/16 hex key to remove.

Steve

The sensor is located on the transmission. Go to this site to see where it is located.
http://www.bikebandit.com/2001-harley-davidson-fltrsei2/o/m1272#sch152984

Good Luck
Steve