20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Hugger - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Yes, a Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Hugger DOES have a rear fender.Now, what's your question?

You can buy a tool (though I made mine) for this, with is basically a "U" shaped piece of metal with a magnet on each end, to hold the lifter up:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Magnetic-Cam-Lifter-Holder-Tool-for-High-Performance-Lifters-/130861475528?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e77f3a6c8&vxp=mtrBUT, a Sportster has individual cams for each valve, so a magnet small enough to fit down into the lifter guide block, and powerful enough to hold the lifter up, should do.

Usually the VOES switch is located between the cylinders right on the top engine mount. It's a black thing with two wires and a vacuum line coming off of it. On the later models, the VOES may be mounted a bit higher. The vacuum line for the VOES and the vacuum operated petcock (if it's the original petcock) comes off the backside of the carburetor, not the air filter. If the hose goes to the backside of the air filter, it's likely something to do with the emissions system. It probably routes evaporative vapors from the fuel tank to the air filter to be run through the engine. To see what the VOES switch looks like, go to http://www.bikebandit.com and put the information on your bike in and look under electrical section.

Good Luck
Steve

The first thing I'd check is the fuel flow. Pull the fuel line off the carb and turn the petcock on. Watch the flow of fuel coming out of the hose to see if it's a good flow. Next, what type of exhaust system is on the bike? If it's got open drag pipes on it, the engine probably needs a bit more back pressure. The old Ironheads were notorious for having a "dead spot" at about 55 mph with open drag pipes. Most drag pipes have a hole on the backside for a bolt that held the baffles in them. If you have this hole, get a quarter inch diameter bolt that is about an inch and quarter long. Put the bolt into the pipe and thread three nuts on the bolt inside the pipe. Make sure the nuts are tight. Put one in each pipe. It's a cheap fix and works pretty well without changing the sound of the bike. Also, at about 55 mph, is where the carb changes over to running off the main jet in the carb. Your carb could be jetted wrong or have a piece of trash in the main jet. If the bike is running rich, it will run better with the air filter removed from the carb. If it's running lean, it'll run better if you roll back on the throttle like you said. I'd check all this stuff before I started buying ignition systems. That's an electrical part that the dealers cannot test and once you buy it, if it ain't the problem, they won't take it back. Harley Davidson ignition systems are pretty rugged and I've never seen a lot of problems out of them. That would be my last effort.

Good Luck
Steve

Check the magnetic end of the speedo sensor. This is the part that goes into the transmission. If the end is covered with metal filings, clean them off and reinstall the sensor. Ride the bike and check to see if this solves your problem.

It's inside the primary cover on the left side of the bike.

I would try adjusting the clutch.

If I'm thinking about the right thing, the clevis that is attached to the rear brake lever that the rod that goes to the rear brake master cylinder connects to, the clevis should have a pin connecting it to the rear brake lever. On the backside of the pin is either a cotter pin or a circlip holding the pin in. You may have to take the rear brake lever off to access the circlip or cotter pin.

Good Luck
Steve

Contact me directly at [email protected] and I'll send you a drawing for the oil lines. The fuel line simply runs from the petcock to the carb between the cylinders. Nothing special about it's routing.

Steve

Depend on the model bike you have. This is not uncommon especially if you have one of the Dresser models. You can try to locate the source of the rattle and try to remedy it but nearly all H-D bikes do this. My Dyna Wide Glide does it and there just seems to be nothing there that should rattle.

Steve

try some graffite powder, available from locksmiths or hardware stores.
oils and sprays can gum up the locks

Pls more info Model,Year??

You must remove the float bowl from the bottom of the carb to get to the float. This can be done without removing the entire carburetor but it's not easy and there may be some other stuff you need to do. I'd remove the carburetor and clean the entire carb. Now, whether you are capable of doing this job or you need a professional mechanic to do the job is going to be left up to you. Carburetors are complicated pieces of equipment and must be put together correctly in order to work.

I'm going to assume that you bike still has the orig nial Keihen CV type carburetor on it. To remove the carb, loosen the large nut on the backside of the enricher cable and allow it to drop loose from it's holder. Remove the air filter and backing plate from the engine. Loosen the throttle cables at the adjusters and remove the cables from the carburetor. Remove the fuel hose. Then, pull the carb out of the intake manifold seal. Be sure to buy a replacement seal so you won't have any vacuum leaks.

Turn the carb upside down. You will see six screws on the bottom of the carb. There are three on one corner. One of those three is a long screw, take that one out and the ones on the other three corners of the float bowl. You may have to tap the float bowl with screwdriver handle to get it to come off. Once it's off, set it aside,

With the carb sitll upside down, you'll see a pin that the float pivots on. You must take this pin out but you'll need to start if out with a very small punch and small hammer. Once the pin moves, you can take it out by hand. Notice on one end of the pin that it has been flared. The pin comes out in that direction and goes back in the same way. Remove the pin and lift the float, with the needle hanging on it, out of the carb. Purchase a new needle and install it. Now, you can stop right here if everything looks good but it the carb is all gummed up on the inside, I'd take it to a professional mechanic and let them soak the carb and clean it.

Reinstall the carb in the opposite manner using a new manifold seal. Make certain that the throttle works like it should.

Good Luck
STeve

Probably your brake switch or broken wire ,take a look at the brake line close to the rear wheel there were a switch with two wire plug on.

So you replaced the start button and, when the start button is depressed it turns the engine over but will not start the engine.

So we know the button itself works, and you not getting spark.

I believe sportsters in 2003 were still carbs, so assuming that, they come with a TSM (turn signal module) This is not really to do with your turn signals, lol. Its more to do with the electrical on your bike tying into one place, and regulating it. Also the TSM houses your BAS (Bank angle sensor), So check under your seat by the rear fender, youll see this module. Make sure it is secure and not flopping around, make sure all the connections are good. Also this sounds dumb. Make sure you didnt blow a fuse.

Check the all relays and fuses.

See if your check engine light comes on and stays on. If it stays on, you have a code, take it in. If not, its probably a connection somewhere.

Chances are, if your not getting spark, and all your connections are good, you probably have a code, and I would say a sensor is bad. Hope this helps a little, Electrical is always hard to diaganose.

You have two brake light switches, one for the rear brake and one for the front brake. If neither switch turns the brake light on, the first thing to check is the bulb. If the bulb is good, check the socket and the wiring to it.

If all that is good, find the rear brake master cylinder. Follow the metal tube coming out of it going to the rear brake. Underneath the bike, there is a pressure switch that turns on the rear brake light. Check to make sure the wires are connected and that one set of wires is "hot" when the ignition switch is in the "ON" position. If so, the switch is probably bad. Replace the switch. I have seen them check good with a meter but still not turn on the brake light. Work with the rear brake light switch first as it's the easiest and least expensive to fix. When you get that working, repost and I'll take you through replacing the front brake light switch. It's quite a bit more difficult to replace than the rear switch. I'm sure that procedure is in the archives as well because I've posted it a number of times.

Good Luck
Steve.

No id say the float is or was stuck tap bowl or remove & clean shut off needle ,,, clean air filter or if not washable replace w/ new ,, get more help at harleytalking.com .. they have helped me many yimes ....

Your bike is not equipped with points. Harley stopped using points in 1979. What you have is a solid state ignition unit and the flashing light is used to time the ignition with. The number of wires and where they should go is dependent upon what type of ignition unit you have. If you can see the unit, it should have a name and model number on it.

Here's a test. Start the bike and allow it to run until it shuts off. Pull the spark plug wire and put another set of spark plugs in them and lay the plugs against the engine so that they get a good ground. Turn the ignition switch on and then back off. Watch the plugs when you turn the switch off. You should see a single spark. If not, your coil is probably bad. If you see the spark, the coil is good.

To test the coil, take all the wires off the small terminals of the coil. Use an ohm meter and put the function switch in R X 1 scale. Measure the resistance between the two terminals. You should read between 2 and 3 ohms of resistance. If it reads any higher than this, the coil is bad.

If the coil checks good, then the problem is in the solid state unit in the timer cavity. If it's an aftermarket unit, you'll have to send it back to the factory to see if it's bad. If it's an aftermarket unit, you can go to their website and look up the technical information and installation instructions for the unit using the model number.

Good Luck
Steve

Well, I'm not sure I understand this question but I'll try. The speed sensor itself is mounted on the right side of the transmission case, just below the starter motor. The other end is connected to the speedometer on the backside. Just follow the wires up to the speedo and take the plate of the backside of the speedo.

Good Luck
Steve

The drain hose location on the Sportsters seemed to have changed every year. But, they stayed in an area just below the battery on the right side of the bike. The hose may simply plug onto a frame tube down by the swingarm. Sometimes they came off a "tee" right behind the primary case.

Good Luck
Steve