20 Most Recent 2000 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The problem is probably the differnce in the bulbs in your new turn signals. that's why most flasher kits come with what is called an "load equalizer". this unit duplicates the load that the original bulbs had.
Try changing the bulbs to 1156 style bulbs if you can. I think that's the original type bulb.

I have a schematic of a 1994 FXDWG that I'll send you but you'll have to contact me directly at
wd4ity at bellsouth.net

Good Luck
Steve

You ever had the top end serviced? How many miles on it? Maybe time for a valve job, check pushrods, and lifters. How many miles on the oil?

Some trans were notorious for being hard to find neutral. When in first and you want to go into neutral, put slight pressure on the shift lever, blip throttle and slip lever into neutral. It has something to do with pressure release on the clutch plates.

The stator is on the left side of the bike while you are sitting on it.

It is underneath the primary cover, the largest one on that side. It can be reached by removing the primary cover, primary chain, clutch basket and the sprocket on the end of the crankshaft. I myself would not tackle a job like this at home. Gaskets are another issue on reassembly. The stator is a coil like winding of copper wire around which rotates a heavy round metal flywheel type piece that has magnets afixed inside of it, as the flywheel rotates around the stator, it creates the electricity, just like a hydroelectric generator you have seen on TV only on a smaller scale.

You got to love the soft tail ( I DO ) most of the time!!!! For most part any way the fuse box is under the seat right behind the battery and should have a cover on it Good Luck!

To get the rear caliper off, remove the two torx head bolts. Lift the rear brake off of the caliper bracket. The pads and the anti-rattle clips remain in the bracket. Set the caliper aside but do not allow it to hang by the hose as this can damage the hose. Do not crimp the hose.

Look closely at the pads and the steel clips on either end of the caliper bracket to determine how they go on the bracket. Replace the pads and steel clips.

You must then compress the piston back into the caliper. I used either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you cover your caliper with something so as not to damage the paint. Compress the piston all the way back into it's bore.

Replace the caliper back down onto the caliper bracket being careful not to disturb the pads or clips. Reinstall the two bolts and torque to 20 foot pounds.

Slowly depress and release the rear brake pedal until you get a full firm feeling pedal. Test brakes before riding the bike. Improperly serviced brakes can cause serious injury or death. Make sure you have done the job correctly. Good Luck, Steve

150-165 foot pounds with two LINES of Loctite 271 red in the threads of the nut. Yeah, it's tight and you will need a primary locking bar to lock the primary so that the engine will not turn over while applying torque to the nut. A primary locking bar is a piece of rectangular metal stock cut the precise length to fit into the primary chain teeth on engine sprocket and the outer clutch shell in order to prevent the spocket from turning. Good Luck, Steve

150-165 foot pounds on any Evolution engine 100 foot pounds on the Shovelhead. Two lines of Loctite 271 red in the threads of the nut.

check the oil level fuel may have leaked into the sump.

have you checked the coils & the conections to them also check the plugs & plug leads personaly I would try a new set of plugs before anything else

It is located on the bottom of the pan, like in a car.

Harley is notorous for changing the oil drain location and type of plug they use. On a '98 model Softail, the oil drain is a large diameter hose that runs down the frame on the right hand side just behind the transmission. It has a hose clamp on it and has a metal plug in the end of the hose. Remove the plug to drain the engine oil. If it's changed, you bike is equipped with a "horse shoe oil tank" in that the tank is shaped like a horse shoe. Look on the bottom of the tank and you'll see two hoses coming off the bottom. One is a small hose and goes to the to the forwards towards the engine. The other should be a bit larger and go downwards with a plug in the end.

There is a plug just below the chrome end cover on the right hand side of the transmission that drains the transmission. To refill the transmission, there is another plug on the chrome cover itself that takes a very large (7/16") allen wrench to remove. There is a dipstick on this plug. When you drain the transmission, refill with 20-24 ounce of H-D transmission lubricant.

The primary oil drain is located on the bottom of the primary cover at the very back. Some models screw into the out primary and some go into the inner primary from below. Either way, drain the primary and replace the plug. Remove the five bolts holding the derby cover on and fill the primary with H-D primary lubricant up to the bottom of the clutch spring. Look at the clutch assembly and you'll see the aluminum outer drum. Just inwards of that, you see a black disc. This is the diaphragm clutch spring. Fill the primary just up to this spring with the bike standing as straight up as you can safely get it. The capacity is 40-44 ounces of oil. Do not overfill or it will make your clutch drag.

Hope this helps.

Inspection nut is on left side of engine in case between cyclinders.Right with the motor number boss.Allen head I believe.Take it out,hook up timing light in regular way,just like car.Use good light,expensive one because you need bright light to see mark good.Point light at hole an you'll see slot goes n/s across hole.Move distributer/points plate an slot will move right to left and rpm's will go up/down.Middle of hole is dead on.To right of hole is advance,I believe,rpm's will tell you.You're only talking bout 2 or 3 dregrees.Past center to right to edge of hole is 2 or 3 advance,I think,rpms will increase,not much to it.Good luck.

Own a Triumph!

I'd be willing to bet that you removed the carb to replace the choke cable as it's very difficult to replace with the carb in place. Now, did you replace the seal that the carb "plugs" into? I've seen this happen many times. I never take a carb off an Evo or later model engine with the spigot mount carb without replacing that seal.

The only thing that you didn't mention was the response of the slide in the carb. With the air filter off but the backing plate still on the carb, rev the engine and make sure the slide is going up and down. If not, you've probably got a hole in the diaghragm.

More than likely, you've got a vacuum leak at that carb seal. When you put the air filter backing plate back on the engine, you should not have to move the carb up, down, or sideways to get the three screws started in it. If you do, you need to replace the seals on the manifold at the heads and realign the intake.

If you determine that you need to do this, replace the intake seals at the head but leave the manifold bolts loose. Replace the carb into the manifold, and install the air filter backing plate. Once it's all installed and aligned correctly, tighten the two bolts on each runner of the intake at the heads.

I hope this helps, Good Luck

Yes, there is a small seal that goes inbetween the mainshaft and the final drive gear. If I were doing this job, I'd also replace the seal on the backside of the inner primary as well.

To replace the small final drive gear seal, you will need a special tool to remove the inner race of the primary bearing from the main shaft. Of course, I've seen lots of times when this seal was not replaced while in there with no consequences.

Also, check the splines on the inside of the front belt pulley. These are bad about wearing. I have seen therm wear to the point that they strip out and no longer drive the motorcycles. If allowed to wear too much, they'll start a wear on the final drive gear as well. You do not want that to happen as it will require the replacement of the final drive gear to repair this damage. High Dollars. Good Luck

It a hose with a large plug in it on the right side of the bike down by the chrome transmission end cap. It should be a large diameter hose with a metal plug in it with a hose clamp on it.

The full VIN number on your bike is stamped on the side of the steering head of the frame. The number on the engine is an abbreviated number but the two numbers should match.

The large wire from the voltage regulator goes to the Positive side of the battery. As an alternative, you can also connect it to the starter where the large cable comes from the battery positive terminal to the starter. I think that's where most Softail models have the regulator wire connected.

If you connect it to the starter, all this does it make it a bit easier to connect since the battery is inside the horseshoe type oil tank. Basically, you are using the battery cable as an extension cord to the battery to keep from having to fish the wire up to the battery.

I'd be willing to bet that it's not "kicking out". The tale tell sign is that the starter keeps running. As long as the plunger in the solenoid is pulled inward,which moves the starter drive into engagement with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum, the start will run. If the starter drive were being "kicked out" the solenoid wouldn't still be engaged and the starter would not continue running.

I would come closer to thinking that your starter drive is bad, the bendix. These things are notorious for going bad, especially the cheap Chinese made aftermarket ones. I've replaced them with only a few weeks use on them. If you buy a new drive, get an Accel, made in the U.S.A.. Simply pull the starter drive out and clamp the shaft in a vice with aluminum jaws on it. The little nut on the end has left handed threads. When you put the nut back on, put some Red Loctite #271 on it. This ought to solve your problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line directly at [email protected] Good Luck!