20 Most Recent 2000 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The flashing lights "Engine light comes on intermittently and usually at lower speeds when the gas is not being fed consistently" is an error code that needs to be read by Harley Davidson Mechanic. You may have to drop the Scooter off and let the Mechanic ride it everyday in order to catch the error code in action or they may be able to simply hook it up to code reader and discover the malfunction I am not sure if the computer (ECM) stores the error codes history or for how long thus the answer I gave but for safety sake I would defiantly drop it at the HD shop and let them go thoroughly through the ECM to ensure no issues there what-so-ever. I hope this really helps.

I do not want to steer you wrong since you are doing the wrenching yourself; therefore, your best bet would be to purchase a Clymer DIY manual for about 45.00 that will give you step by step details on how to install your inner clutch hub. Here is the link online to purchase the manual.. The one that I provided the link for covers your model and several more. When in doubt I have always referred to the Clymer manuals. I hope this assists you greatly and ride free.... Stormi

http://www.clymer.com/Book.aspx?bid=871&title=Clymer+Harley-Davidson+FLS%2fFXS+Twin+Cam+88B%2c+95B+%26+103B+2000-2005
Clymer Harley-Davidson FLS/FXS Twin Cam 88B, 95B & 103B 2000-2005

Clymer Harley-Davidson FLS/FXS Twin Cam 88B, 95B & 103B 2000-2005
Copyright:2006
UPC Code:024185796299
ISBN: 9780892879625
Price: 45.95
Item ID:M4232
Availability: In Stock. Order Now.

If you know how to connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to your battery to read current, connect it up and start pulling fuses. When you pull a fuse and the current draw drops dramatically, the problem in on the circuit that fuse protects.

If you don't have a meter or don't know how to check current with it, you can always do the old spark test. Take your negative cable loose where it connects to the frame. If you touch it and take it back off quickly, you will see a spark. Pull the fuses one at a time and test it each time you pull a fuse. When you don't get a spark or the spark is much smaller, you've found the circuit. All you need to do then is trace the circuit with a schematic and check everything on that circuit.

Good Luck
Steve

Hi! As a first course of action I strongly suggest that you charge the battery. If no luck then the battery itself is dead for it's not storing power. If that's the case, you'll have to replace the battery. Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa!

Refer to this site, www.bikebandit.com for an exploded view of the front forks. Basically you must have the seals in the slider (lower part) and the damper tube in the upper fork tube. Then slide the upper fork tube down into the lower and install the bolt in very end of the slider. Then install the spring and top plug or put it in the triple trees and intstall the top cap. You'll have to put the appropiate amount of the correct weight oil in the tubes. The amount depends on what kind of forks they are. Since they've been taken apart, use the "dry" (as compared to 'wet") amount of oil.

Good Luck
Steve

You need to check the output of your alternator. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the outputs.

First connect the meter across your battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal, black meter lead to the negative or a good ground. Put the function selector of your meter in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle, 2000 RPM. Your meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts. Turn all lights on and make sure the voltage stays the same.

If your meter reads low in this test, you need to check the output of the stator. On the lower left front of the engine, you'll see a plug where the voltage regulator plugs into the engine case. Unplug this plug and look into the part that is in the engine case. You'll see two metal contacts. These are what you're going to put your meter leads to in this test. Since the voltage is now AC volts, it makes no difference which lead goes to which contact. Put your meter's function selector in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert the meter leads into the contacts. The meter should read at least 30 volts AC voltage here.

If the alternator stator test fails, you need a new stator. If it passes the test, you need a new regulator. If both pass the test, you need to evaluate the current draw of any extra lights or other equipment that you may have put on the bike. If your equipment is drawing more current than the alternator is capable of producing, a slow drawdown of the battery is the results.

Good Luck
Steve

Have you checked your fuel petcock? In 1996, Harley came out with a vacuum operated fuel petcock that turns itself on and off. It's run by vacuum from the engine via a small hose on the backside of the petcock.

Drain the fuel from the tank by loosening the petcock and catching the fuel with a funnel. Once the tank is drained, completely remove the petcock. There is a square plate on the backside held on with four small screws. Take out the screws and take the rear plate off slowly. Notice how the parts come out of the petcock so you can get it back together correctly. There's a spring, a needle, and a diaphragm. Remove the diaphragm and hold it up to a light. Gently stretch the diaphragm and look for a hole. If you find a hole, replace the diaphragm. Before you put the petcock back together, blow all the fuel passages out with compressed air. Reassemble and reinstall the petcock.

Another thing could be a bad vent in the fuel cap. The vented cap is on the right side tank. Loosen, but don't remove, the cap and ride down the road. If this cures the problem, buy another fuel cap.

Good Luck
STeve

Ok, Never use the enricher anymore than you have to. It's way to rich on every CV carb I've ever seen. It will foul your plugs. I start my bike with the enricher on but as soon as I can keep the bike running at a fast idle with the throttle tension screw on the bottom of the throttle grip, I set the screw to hold the idle at about 1500 RPM or so until the engine is completely warm on the top end. When the rocker boxes start to feel a bit warm, I'm ready.

Now, when Harley came out with the Twin Cam, I quit working on them. I work only on the older models, Evo powered and older. The reason is that Harley went to electronic engine control modules. This sounds a lot like what you've got.

To cure your idles problems, once you get your engine to full operating temp, set the idle speed using the throttle stop screw at the carb. Take the air cleaner outer cover off and you should be able to see the screw at the top front of the carb. Clockwise speeds the idle up. Now, the engine is not going to idle correctly until it is completely warmed up. That usually takes at least five miles of riding or so. Until then, you must keep the idle set with the throttle grip.

The alternative to this is a fuel injection system. And, you only think you have problems now. Read some of the problems those people have on this forum. I'll keep my '94 FXDWG.

Good Luck
steve

not starter weak battery. has a surface charge but no cranking amps. have your battery charged and load tested. you will probably find it is bad.

Happens all the time, you shifter pawl return spring is broken. If you will put the transmission in neutral and lift or push down on the shift lever, you'll notice that the lever doesn't want to return to the "center position" on it's own. This is because the spring that brings the shifter back to the "center position" after a gear shift is broken. It is also not advisable to ride the bike until this is repaired. The broken end of the spring has been known to get caught up in the gears and actually bust the transmission cases in addition to damaging those gears.

This is not a simple repair job in the fact that all the "guts" have to come out of the transmission. The shifter pawl shaft will not come out of the transmission case with the gears on their shafts left inside the case.

If you want more detail, drop me a line at [email protected]

No, look on the bottom of the oil tank for the right side of the bike. There's a large diameter hose that come off the bottom of the tank and down and back behind the transmission. It follows the frame downward and comes out at the bottom of the frame behind the exhaust pipes. There is a plug in the hose. Remove the plug to drain the oil. Harley moved the drain to the bottom of the crossmember of the frame underneath the bike but I'm not sure of what year they did it.

Good Luck
steve

On the right hand side of the bike, look under the bottom of the oil tank. You should see a large hose or pipe running from the bottom of the tank down behind the transmission. It follows the frame down low behind the exhaust system. Now, Harley changed the location of the plug and I don't know what year they did it. The plug will be a metal plug stuck into the end of the hose or it will be a screw in plug under the frame in the cross brace. Just follow the large hose to the end and you'll find the plug.

Good Luck
Steve

yes it could be or could be your charge system did the battery go down after u drove it

Sounds like you've overfilled the oil. The stick has two marks on it. The top mark is 'FULL HOT" and the lower mark is 'FULL COLD". If you changed the oil filter, you add three quarts of oil. If you did not change the filter, you only put 2.7 quarts in the tank. The next time the cap blows off, as long as the oil level is above the lower mark, do not add anymore oil and see what happens. As long as the oil level is between the marks, do not add oil. Sportsters are notorious for this. People check the oil before they go riding and "top it off". Bad move. As long as the oil is between the lines when cold, ride the bike to warm it up, and then maybe add a bit if it's low. Do not bring it up to the top line even if the engine is warm. About half way is good enough.

Good Luck
steve

that is computer codes for problems with your hog. you need a code book or a computer hooked up to it to find out what the code mean's.

It depends on the tachometer. Some tachometers operate off the ignition unit and others get their trigger from the coil. Also, since a Harley fires both plugs at the same time and every time the pistons come to top center. Therefore, the tachometer must be set up for this, just like for a two stroke engine or you'll get a erronous reading. Any tachometer that you buy should have wiring instructions with it.

I hope this helps
Good Luck
Steve

Well, you didn't tell me under what circumstances it makes the noise so I'm going to assume it makes the noise constantly or pretty near so.

There are several things that can cause this. The primary chain needing adjusting is the most common. If it gets too loose, it will run the inside of the case at the top front. To check the tension, remove the oval inspection cover. The top run of the chain should have 5/8" to 7/8" up and down play in the middle of the run. To adjust, loosen the nut on the shoe and move it up or down.

Also the sprocket shaft nut that holds the compensator sprocket on could have come loose. This nut requires quite a lot of torque and if someone has worked on it and didn't get it tight enough, I've seen them come loose and the nut rubs on the inside of the outer cover. Drain the oil in the primay and pull the outer cover off. If the nut is loose, remove it and put two lines of Loctite #271 (red) in the nut and retighten the nut to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You must have a way to lock the primary up and keep the engine from turning to get this much torque on the nut. We use what is known as a locking bar that fits in the sprocket teeth of both the compensator sprocket and the clutch hub.

The other thing is not enough oil in the primay. It should have between 36-42 ounces of oil in the primary.

Good Luck
Steve

if you are no longer setting a current code then I would not worry ! Your system will send the fault to historic after 50 run cycles and you will no longer have the engine light coming on the second time

Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper into the caliper bracket. Lift the caliper off the bracket and set aside. Do not crimp the hose as this can damage the hose on the inside.

Notice how the pads and the metal anti-rattle clips are positioned in the caliper bracket. Remove the old pads and clips and replace with the new parts. Make sure the rear pad is positioned with the fiber material towards the rotor. I've seen many put in metal to metal by good mechanics because it's on the backside of the rotor.

Now, you must compress the piston back into it's bore in the caliper. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to do this. Use a rag or something to prevent scratching the paint on your caliper. With the piston compressed completely back into it's bore, carefully replace the caliper into the caliper bracket. Do not disturb the pads or clips.
Install the two bolts with a bit of blue Loctite #242 medium hold on the threads and torque to 20 foot pounds. Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder.

Slowly depress the rear brake pedal and release until you have a full firm pedal. Test the brakes before you ride the bike. Improperly serviced brakes can cause serious injury or death. Make sure they work correctly before riding the bike.

Good Luck
Steve

You may be able to get a replacement frame through a dealer or you could order an aftermarket frame from somewhere like V-Twin or Custom Chrome. The problem is the serial number. Since Harleys are so often stolen and the parts swapped, the factory and the law enforcement agencies have a lot to do with frames and frame numbers. If you change frames, the serial number will not match the engine and depending on how your state registers vehicles, you may have to re-register the bike. To do this you will need a "Certificate of Origin" with the new frame. I'd check with your local DMV to see what is involved.

Good Luck
Steve