20 Most Recent 2000 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Check the battery contact. Or check if the battery is good.

relay .. replace ,,,start there,,

You haven't adjusted it correctly. You must adjust the clutch in the exact sequence that the manual tells you to. A lot of people don't like the idea of having to loosen the clutch cable but it has to be done. Find the cable adjuster and loosen the lock nut. Turn the adjuster barrel inwards and get a LOT of slack in the cable. Then, remove the derby cover. You'll see the clutch assembly with the adjuster screw and locknut in the center. Loosen the locknut and turn the screw outwards until it's loose. Turn it back inwards until you feel a resistance. Do not force the screw and you may have to turn it back out and then back in several times until you get the feel of what you're doing. Once you feel the resistance, back the screw back out 1/2 turn and lock the lock nut down. Replace the derby cover. Then adjust the cable adjuster barrel back out until you have about an 1/8" free play in the cable. This should adjust your clutch to a more acceptable engagement point. Since your clutch discs are new, be prepared to adjust your clutch several more times as the plates "seat in".

Good Luck
Steve

The circuit breaker is usually under the seat but I'm not positive of that. I work on 1999 and earlier models only.

Good Luck
Steve

First off, I've never seen a breaker connected to the frame. They have two studs on them and they are wired in series with the circuit that they are designated to protect. Sometimes they do get warm because this is the way they work. If the circuit draws too much current, say due to a short, then the excessive current flow through the breaker heats it up to the point to where it "breaks". When it cools down, it resets. If the short circuit is still present, it'll simply heat up and "break" again. From what you've said, I'd suspect something to do with the fuel. It sounds like you're running out of fuel to the carb even though you may have a full tank of fuel. Try loosening the fuel caps as you may have a bad "vent" in the cap. If your bike as split tanks, the right side cap is the vented cap. Don't take the cap off or you may get a lap full of fuel. Just loosen up the caps and take it for a ride. If it does not quit, replace the cap. If it does quit, you've got to determine why. Carry an extra spark plug with you. When it quits, pull a spark plug wire and put the extra spark plug in the wire. Ground the plug to the cylinder head and spin the engine with the starter. Watch for the plug to spark. If it does not spark, you're losing ignition. If it does, you've got fuel problems.

Good Luck
Steve

Id ask here 2,,,, good guys...http://harleytalking.com/login.php?do=logout&logouthash=1313501436-eb7a83064e08c13f62cc323a7bbce4a8d217cd8d

To test the voltage regulator, with a fully charged battery in the bike, use a digital volt ohm meter to check the voltage output of the regulator. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS with a range of 20 volts or higher. Connect the red meter lead to the positive post of the battery and the black meter lead to the negative post of the battery. Start the bike and bring the engine to a high idle. After a minute or so, your meter should read 14.5 to 15 volts. Any higher, you may have a bad regulator.

Good Luck
Steve

On the underside of the primary all the way to the rear of the primary just under the clutch area is a pipe plug. Remove the plug to drain the oil. To refill the primary, remove the round derby cover from the primary over the clutch. Stand the bike straight up and fill the primary with 20W50 engine oil until the level just comes to the bottom of the clutch drum. Do not overfill or the clutch will drag.

Good Luck
Steve

Could be low oil level as the oil heats up the pressure level drops and turns on the light. It may be just needing a little to bring it back to full. Check the oil level if it is low add some oil and start the bike and try again.

replace the solenoid contacts and machine the ring on the solenoids plunger to make it operate again
Or purchase a rebuilt starter instead

Well, just like in a car engine, there is no way to change out all of the oil. There's going to be some pockets of oil left somewhere in the engine. I've torn down engines that haven't been run in twenty years and found pockets of oil sitting in the heads and places like that. If you've changed the oil several times, you should be good to go. Did you check the primary case oil? I've seen the gasoline get in there as well. Drain it and add a quart of oil and you'll be fine.

Good Luck
Steve

Remove tripple trees.you may need to use a bearing removal tool, check your races make shure they are good. replace bearings I heat up bearings in oven & put tripple tree in freezer over nite helps to install bearing..

Your carb is jetted too lean. You can go up on the slow speed jet to the next size and try that. It's probably got a #45 jet in the carb, go to a #48 or #50.

Good Luck
Steve

You may just have a bad battery. Put your meter across the battery and try to start the engine. If the voltage drops below 10 volts across the battery, it's bad.

The bike is not going to run with only 3 volts at the coil. I guess you know that by now. I would recheck my wiring to make sure I didn't have something wired incorrectly. If you find nothing, you'll have to get in touch with Ultima for more information. Now, I've used Ultima parts before and their "customer service" leaves a lot to be desired.

I wished I could help you further but not being there, it's impossible for me to troubleshoot it from here.

Good Luck
Steve

Well, I've have heard of this problem before but I've never seen it for myself. I wrote a opinion here just the other day concerning this problem in a 1990 bike.

This is unusual. I'm afraid that if your transmission is doing this, you are going to have to do at least a partial teardown of the transmission.

I could be that the shifter cam is not rotating fully to put the 5th gear clutch dog into gear. This would cause just the tips of the lugs to be driving the final drive gear. And, it could jump out and back in from time to time.

Now, why the shifter cam is not rotating fully is the question. If the rest of the gears seem to be shifting fine, I wouldn't think it was the shifter pawl but it could be.

If it were mine, I'd remove the exhaust system and whatever else needed to gain good access to the the transmission top cover. Remove the cover and raise the rear of the bike off the ground. Now, you can shift the transmission and watch the actions of the shifter cam. Pay particular attention to the 5th gear shifter fork. See how much "play" the fork has once it's shifted into gear. You may spot something wrong there and be able to repair the problem without pulling the transmission out of the frame. If not, you may have to pull the entire transmission or at least the trap doors with the shafts to inspect the final drive gear. You may wind up replacing the final drive gear if the clutch dog has been jumping in and out of gear.

One other thing. Have you checked your front belt pulley? I've seen the splines in the pulleys wear to the point that they just strip out and won't pull the bike in any gear. Check that before you start tearing down the transmission. Usually when this happens, (excessive wear on the front pulley) it is accompanied by a small transmission fluid leak. If you ride the bike and park it, it'll leak a spot about the size of silver dollar. If you wipe the spot up, it won't leak again until you either ride the bike again or start it up. Then, it'll leak again. The transmission fluid is leaking past the "quad seal" behind the pulley.

Good Luck
Steve

Ok, it sounds like the proverbial "bad battery" to me. Although you say you measure 12 amp (I think you actually mean volts here) this doesn't tell you the condition of the battery. You can take a 9 volt battery that will not run the device it's in and measure it with a volt meter and it will measure 9 volts most of the time. Now, when you put a load on that battery, the voltage drops to almost nothing. This is because your volt meter cannot "load the battery. The same happens with your bike's battery.

Take your battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store, Ask them to "load test" the battery. They'll charge the battery for a while and then put a "battery load meter" or "carbon pile" machine on it and put a load on the battery exactly like your starter is doing. Only now, you have a meter on the machine to show you what it's doing. You can do the same thing using you voltmeter. Connect it "across" the battery, red probe to positive, black probe to negative and press the start button. If the voltage drops below 10.5 volts, your battery is no good.

I would also suggest that you never use on to the "jump start" battery chargers in an attempt to start your bike. Your newer bike has delicate electronics that can be easily damaged by "spikes" of voltage that these devices are known for creating. You're better off push starting the bike. If the bike won't start with a regular pair of jumper cables and another battery, Go buy another battery, It'll be cheaper in the long run. Those electronics are very expensive and you cannot diagnose them yourself.

Good Luck and Ride Safe
Steve

Try this site.......................http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5fKxX6Nev0



It has everything about that Softail service and maintenance!

Hope that helps u out!

yes, you really need to remove the seat. Although I am not familiar with your particular model, most Sportster seats are held on by a single bolt screwed into the rear fender at the very back of the seat. Remove the bolt, lift the rear end of the seat slightly, and pull it to the rear. There is a tang on the front of the seat that slips under the frame. Once out, you should be able to see the battery and the strap that holds the top battery cover down. Loosen the nut and remove the hold down strap and battery top cover. Remove the rubber strap that holds the battery into the tray. Disconnect the negative cable first when removing the battery. When installing the battery connect the negative cable last.

Good Luck
Steve

What I'd do is make sure I had a good battery. Take the battery to an automotive parts store and ask them to load test it. If the battery is good, put it back in the bike and take the spark plugs out of the engine. Spin the engine over a few times. If it won't spin over then, you may have a problem. The bottom end of the engine may be full of oil. Check the oil tank. If it's empty, DO NOT ADD OIL until you get the engine spinning over. The oil sometimes seeps past the check valve ball and into the engine. If enough oil gets into the bottom end, The engine could lock up although I've never seen one get this much oil in the bottom end. Try what I've told you here and see what happens, repost and we'll go from there.

Good Luck
Steve

If you're trying to replace the pads, you shouldn't have to remove the rear wheel. Now. Sometimes Harley plays tricks on the owners and the mechanics. If it's approaching a "year change" and they run out of parts for the current year, they'll go ahead and switch to the later year model parts. In other words, your '99 model may have 2000 year model brakes on it.

Now, since I can't see the bike, all I have to go by is a few books. If this is the case, I won't know it so I'll have try something else. Look at the rear caliper. If look "inside" of the caliper you'll see the two pads. Are the two pads held in by two pins that run horizonally though the caliper halves and the pads? If so, you have the newer four piston calipers. If you've taken any bolts out of this caliper, the caliper is probably trying to split into two pieces. If this is the case, replace the bolts and tighten the well. Then, using a punch, drive the two pins out the backside of the caliper. There should be a metal piece that is an anti-rattle spring that will come out. Use a large screwdriver inserted between the rotor and the pad to gently pry the pad and the two pistons on the that side back into the caliper. Leave that screwdriver in there and use another to pry the pad and pistons on the other side back. Don't get too aggressive when doing this. The pistons move slowly just put enough pressure on the old pad so that the piston move into the caliper. If you don't do this, you will not be able to get the new pads in. Once you have the piston fully compressed into the caliper, lift the old pads out and drop the new pads in with the fiber side towards the rotor. Install the anti-rattle spring and the two pins. I would be a good idea to bleed the brakes and make sure you have a full firm pedal before you ride the bike.

If you don't see the pads or pins, you have the earlier dual piston caliper. Once you have the two bolts out, you may have to "rock" the caliper inward and outward a bit to compress the pistons back into the caliper a bit and break them loose from the pads. Once you get the caliper off, use a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to compress the pistons all the way into the caliper. Use some rags or thin wooden pieces to protect the paint and finish on your caliper. Remove the old pads and replace them with the fiber side towards the rotor. Put the caliper back on and tighten the bolts. Depress the rear brake pedal a few times until you get a full pedal. You may wish to bleed the brakes a bit to ensure there is no air in the system. Make sure you have a full firm pedal before you ride the bike and that the brakes work properly.

If you still cannot get the caliper off, I would suggest that you take the bike to a qualified mechanic since something else may be wrong. Brakes is THE ONE THING YOU DON'T WANT TO TAKE A CHANCE ON. If your bike quits, you pull off the road and get mad. If your brakes don't work when you need them, you get hurt or worse. If you experience anymore problems, let a qualified mechanic have a look at them.

Good Luck
Steve