20 Most Recent 2000 Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport - Page 5 Questions & Answers

sound like you may have blown the return spring off of either the foot pedal or shifter fork at the trans housing.

Sounds right

did u install new gaskets, the engine might be sucking air from outside the carbs. u can use a propane torch (not light) spray a little around outside of the carbs, see if engine sounds different, if it does... leaky gasket.. u might check there is no unplugged vaccum hose.

Charge up the battery, check the battery connections, sounds like a discharged battery

That means your mixture is too rich. The cylinder with the wet plug may have a cracked rings as well, but i would rejet to a leaner mixture and see if that solves it. Your plugs SHOULD be dry and greyish/brownish

First check for a leak around your manifold. You may just have an intake leak. Shine a flashlight between your jugs and see if their is black sooth around your manifold where it joins the jugs. The guy above doesnt have a clue. It really does sound like an intake leak.

check the bulbs just replace the tail light will still work if bulb is bad

first you need to take apart the throttle thats is done by 2 screws under the throttle the cable will be cloped in to a slide that rotates to pull the cabel. after that fallow the bable to the engin it will clip in on a nother slide that is on the intake manifold that controls the throttle there might be a screw or two holding it, you may have to remove some things to get to it

Did you put a new battery in it? If not have it load tested and replace if needed. Check the grounds and make sure they are clean and tight. Check the stator by going to the plug on the right front down tube, with a muti meter take a reading with the bike running on the side that goes back toward the engine, I forget the values but you should get a reading at idle and then as you rev the motor the reading should climb. If all of the above check out OK the problem will be your voltage regulator.

if you prefer you get a Clymer's Repair manual that will give you exact torque specs

It blows fuses because it is drawing to many amps. Did you change the bulb and put in the wrong one? If not you need to trace the fault.

First remove some air from the tire so that it will be able to make through the forks once its loose. standing in front of bike facing it. on your left side of wheel is a bolt at the axel that should be a large allen/hex head bolt loosen it to take pressure off of axel. You will see a large hole on that same side of axel. I usually put a large screw driver through this to give me leverage for turning the nut on the other side of the wheel which is your next step. There may also be a cotter pin on one of the sides, Im thinking the right side but I'm drawing a blank since the bike isnt sitting in front of me right now. If you see one of course take it off and use a new one when you replace it. Before going much further you will need to remove the brake caliper. It will be heald on by two bolts that are probably dull gray in color and are obviously holding it to the fork. Dont let the brake hang once its loose. Prop it up so there isnt tension on the brake line. Go back to taking the wheel off. Use one hand to hold the screwdriver or other leverage device that you've stuck through the hole on the left side of the wheel and the other to turn the nut on the right side of the wheel. Take notice of washers and spacers and where they go. Laying down a piece of cardboard as a tray and using a sharpie to label what things are and where they go has always been helpful to me. Once the nut is loose you may need to do a little "hammering" to pursuade the axel to come out towards your right. I have hammering in quotations because you'll want to avoid actual metal on metal hammering. Just some slight tapping should get you going. And dont lose sight of those spacers and washers. They can role to the most inconvenient places. Once the axel is on its way you should be able to grab its end and pull the axel on out then pull the wheel forward and down through the forks.

Did you put 4ozs in the oil filter to prime the system?

Ultima has the best I've installed built in cancels and load equalizers

so if its firing with starting fluid but not gas then your gas is not getting thru at the right rate. if you are in the USA get some Berrymans carb cleaner spray and a can of fuel additive. remove air cleaner and spray a ton or cleaner in. leave it soaking over night. try starting. add some of the mix in additive in the gas, if it will start run it till hot then let stand overnight. next day hopfully will be fine

Had your bike sat a long time without being started? Been down real bumpy roads? I worked on a friends 1999 883 Sporty recently, it needed the carb rebuilt. I cleaned out all jets and passages, and float level was reset, it was out of adj.. Also, when diagnosing bike hard starting and backfiring out the air cleaner problem, I found the timing plate had losened up and the timing was off about 7 degrees which I adjusted back to spec before I rebuilt the carb. The plugs were also clean, not dry..Runs Good Now. The shop 1st looked at bike before I did, they said it was an Ignition problem and changed out the key switch which did Not solve problem.

The speedometer reading change when pushing the button means that this button was probably installed to recalibrate the speedometer. The size of the rear wheel was probably reduced, so the speedometer needs to be calibrated for the smaller wheels. As long as the speedometer reads right, I wouldn't worry about it. As for the oil level, it shouldn't be changed. There's marks on the dipstick indicating how much oil is needed.