20 Most Recent 1993 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Hugger - Page 3 Questions & Answers

OK, a common problem that causes that is incorrect viscosity of oil and/or a clogged oil filter if it has one.

I had this problem in a 1997 Cadillac Deville Limousine I bought (even after topping it off), and the problem went away with an oil and filter change.

If the problem does not go away with an oil and filter change, I would consider replacing or checking the operation of the ol pressure sensor.

Does it work with the front brake lever? For the rear brake light switch follow the brake line from the maser cylinder back to the switch in the line . Check the brake light switch by First checking for power: with a test meter to ground with the ignition on you should have voltage to one of the two wires then use a test wire cross between the two terminals the light should light, if it does you need a switch if not you need a bulb. If you dont have power you need to check the breakers. Hope this helps.

The oil light is turned on and off by a sending unit under the right side of the engine just inside the frame. It has one wire going to it.

To test the system, remove the wire from the sending unit. Turn on the ignition switch. Touch the wire to the engine. If the light comes on, your sending unit is probably bad. If the light does not come on, the small bulb in the cluster is probably bad.

Good Luck
Steve

Too much oil in the system now, Remove a half quart, see what happens. This is common on the Softails and Full Dressers too, when the recommended amount of oil is used. Trial and error through the years have dictated the use of either a 1/2 quart or more, less oil.

Hope this helps.

I hope this helps.

If your talking about the wires between the stator and regulator, these wirs carry AC voltage. They can be hooked up either way.

the new fuels that we buy today only last around 6-8 weeks before they start to turn back to sugar. take the carbs off and clean and replace all of the jets. When u leave it next time use a stabliser in the gas

All of these components run off of your accessory circuit. Check for power before and after the fuses. A lack of power before the fuses would mean an open short between the ignition switch and the fuse. If there's a lack of power after the fuse, check the fuse again or replace it.

75w 90 gear oil. 32 oz

The light unit has to be grounded.When you rewired did you forget to reattach the ground wire?Turn the lights on and hit the brake,what does the tail light do? If it goes dim or off you have a bad ground.It worked before the new rear light,right?Check for compromised ground.

Warm up the bike first. On Evolution Sportster's, be sure to change the filter the same time you change oil. The oil may be drained from the tank, by locating a blanked-off hose behind the transmission case, near the frame. Remove the plug and drain into a proper container. One problem with Sportster's (and other HD engines) is that some old oil is always left in the system. You can eject some of this by taking off the plug wires and cranking the engine to expel old oil back into the tank, and hence to drain line. Don't crank the engine more than 30 sec. to avoid damage. Never run engine W/O oil in the system. Recycle old motor oil !!

There are two switchs that operate the brake light. One is a mechanical switch at the handlebar brake lever and the other is a pressure operated switch somewhere along the metal rear brake line.

To test the brake light wiring, find the pressure switch on the rear brake line. It should have two electrical connections on it. With the ignition switch on, jumper across these two connections. The brake light should work. If not, there is something wrong with either the wiring, the socket, or the bulb. If it works, I'd replace the pressure switch. They aren't expensive.

If the front brake switch doesn't work, you can replace the switch in it but you'll have to remove the switch housing on that side of the handlebar, unplug the wires for the switch, swap out the switch with a new one, plug the wires to it, and replace the switch housing. Sounds simple and really it is but not as easy as it sounds. You'll have to deal with the throttle cables and mechanism as well. Good Luck.

Yes, it could be either something plugged in the carb or vacuum leaks. If the bike has been sitting for over three months, it's probably the jets are plugged in the carb. You'll need to pull the carb and go through it. Use that pressurized carb cleaner to clean out the jets and all passageways in the carb.

Make sure you put a new carb to intake seal on the intake before you put the carb back on. Also, check the hose that comes off the backside of the carb. It supplies vacuum to two things, the VOES switch up between the tanks and the vacuum operated fuel petcock. Make sure the hose has not cracked or come loose from either of these. I at least one occasion, I found the vacuum operated petcock to be leaking air. The bike would not idle. It would run but would pop and spit back through the carb. I had to take it out of the tank, disassemble it, and reassemble. After that, it worked but I don't know for how long. I suggest replacing the vacuum operated petcocks with manually operated petcocks. I've only seen one leak air but I've seen lots of them leave riders stranded with full fuel tanks but no fuel in the carb. They will malfunction and leave you stranded.

Changing the rear pads is pretty simple. Just take the two caliper retaining bolts out and lift the caliper off the pads and the caliper bracket. You might have to wiggle the caliper just a bit to get it up and off the caliper bracket.

Replace the pads and the anti-rattle hardware in the caliper bracket. Pay particular attention to which way the anti-rattle hdware goes on. Make sure you put the pads in with the fiber side towards the brake disc.

Now, you'll have to press the piston back into the caliper. You can use either a large pair of slip joint pliers or a C-clamp. Cover the caliper with something to protect the paint. Once you get the piston pushed back into the caliper, carefully replace it on the caliper bracket without disturbing the pads. Put a drop of Loctite 242 blue on the threads of the bolts and torque them to 20 foot pounds.

Check the brake fluid level and slowly depress the rear brake pedal until you get a good firm feeling pedal. Make sure the brakes work properly before you ride the bike. Improper servicing of the brakes can cause severe injury or death. Make sure you do this right.

bad flasher

I'm confuse a bit but I'll try to help. You say you're having problems with the belt drive and getting the clutch cover side off.

The heading on this post says you have a '93 XLH Sporty. The final drive belt is on the opposite side of clutch on a Sporty. You didn't mention what type of problem you were having with the final drive belt so I'll try to help you with getting the clutch cover off.

To get the primary cover off your Sporty, you've got to take the nut off the clutch adjuster rod. There should be two round access covers on your primary cover. The one in the middle top is for checking the tension on the primary chain and adding oil. The one at the rear in the middle of the large round place in the cover is the one you need to remove. Under the cover, there will be a spring and a lockplate. The lockplate will look kind of like a nut but won't have any threads in it. Remove this lockplate. Now, you'll see a nut with a screw in it. Turn this screw clockwise until you can remove the nut.

Now, you'll have to loosen the primary chain adjuster. First drain the oil. Underneath the cover, you'll see a threaded stud with a locknut on it. Loosen the locknut and using an allen wrench, turn the screw out loosening the primary chain.

Now, remove the screws from around the primary cover. There are 13 in all. They are different lengths so make sure you keep up with which goes where. Once you get them all out, you should be able to remove the cover.

check for a break at the transmision end of the cable. look for the pion gear on that end.

Clymer manual number CM429-5 is the one you need. You can buy it at many bookstores, but ordering it online is probably easier. One place you can order it is cyclemanuals.com

I would check my Clutch before going any further. Sounds to me like it is not engaging or possibly have you checked the rear chain?

Have you tried the blinker module?