20 Most Recent 2004 Sym Husky 125 Questions & Answers

The jet is probably gunked up.take the carb off and take it apart.run a bread tie thrue the jet and blow air thrue it.

May not have one. Uses a mag and battery only.

take carb off again and check float height it should be 8.8 +- 1mm then screw air mixture screwin untill it just seat the unscrew 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns once running set idle to 2000 +- 100 for the 50 and 2100 +- 100 for the 100 model

Set your meter in ohms. That's the horse shoe looking icon. test with the stator unplugged. Take one meter lead and run to one wire and run the other lead to another wire. You should get some sort of numbers. All meters have different readings so the easiest way to determine is if it shows numbers or not. If it's a 3 phase system.. ( 3 wires instead of 2 ) then you test 1 to 2 , 1 to 3 , and 2 to 3 checking for numbers. Once you've completed that task. If you didn't get numbers in any of those tests then you have a broken wire. Therefore it's bad. If you got numbers in all the equations then take one lead to a wire and the other to ground. It doesn't have to be a chassis ground either. It can be a cylinder head bolt or a bolt that goes into the frame somewhere close. If you get numbers on this check for any of the wires then it's bad and is grounding out . If all those check OFL or OL or out of limits then it's good on that series of checks. If all those check good then the last check is output. Set your meter in VAC ( Volts A/C ) or the v with the squiggly line under it. While running the bike your output should be roughly 25 VAC per 1000 K. which means at 1000 rpm you should be putting out around 25 Volts AC. At 2000 rpm you should be around 50 VAC and 3000 rpm 75 VAC. This is just a general spec. If they are a little lower or higher it's OK. Hope that helps. Oh and if the stator checks good then it's your regulator. Or a bad battery but a local parts chain will test it for you usually for free. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

Set your meter in ohms. That's the horse shoe looking icon. test with the stator unplugged. Take one meter lead and run to one wire and run the other lead to another wire. You should get some sort of numbers. All meters have different readings so the easiest way to determine is if it shows numbers or not. If it's a 3 phase system.. ( 3 wires instead of 2 ) then you test 1 to 2 , 1 to 3 , and 2 to 3 checking for numbers. Once you've completed that task. If you didn't get numbers in any of those tests then you have a broken wire. Therefore it's bad. If you got numbers in all the equations then take one lead to a wire and the other to ground. It doesn't have to be a chassis ground either. It can be a cylinder head bolt or a bolt that goes into the frame somewhere close. If you get numbers on this check for any of the wires then it's bad and is grounding out . If all those check OFL or OL or out of limits then it's good on that series of checks. If all those check good then the last check is output. Set your meter in VAC ( Volts A/C ) or the v with the squiggly line under it. While running the bike your output should be roughly 25 VAC per 1000 K. which means at 1000 rpm you should be putting out around 25 Volts AC. At 2000 rpm you should be around 50 VAC and 3000 rpm 75 VAC. This is just a general spec. If they are a little lower or higher it's OK. Hope that helps. Oh and if the stator checks good then it's your regulator. Or a bad battery but a local parts chain will test it for you usually for free. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

Take bowl off carb,free float if stuck and check fuel inlet needle to see if it closing fuel when bowl full.blow into fuel inlet on carb opening and closing the float at the same time if it stops you blowing then it is working if not then you have found the problem.it will be one or the other. www.thepitstopcardiff.co.uk 50cc lifan aero on the road 999 pounds inclusive 3year warranty

Look under the seat.

carb could be clogged with trash even though fuel is gettin to carb the main jet could be blocked not letting fuel enter intake

There may be several things causing this fault (your sure the plug is fine?)

The ignition systems on these bikes are pretty basic. The Stator plate provides power to the CDI unit, which builds up until the pulser tells it to send the power to the coil and produce the spark

1. is there voltage from the stator plate (under flywheel) - you can test with a basic multimeter.

2. is the pulser sending a pulse - also can be tested with basic multimeter

3. is the CDI blown? - swap out to test

4. Is the Coil blown? - can be tested with multimeter

it is also very possible that you may have got a couple of wires mixed up when you switched engines.

if you put to much fuel in the pot you might have flooded it....did you take off the fuel line to make sure you have fuel comming out?if it is not fuel injected.than try changing the jetting in it.does the plug have wet oil on it when you take it out or what color is it?

I also own one (4 years old). Assuming it drives strongly enough at speed the problem will be your belt drive/variator transmission. If you are OK mechanic-wise remove the left side panel (you have to remove the small rear panel near the lights first) and then all the txmission case screws to have a look. If the belt is OK (and they last forever) it could be you need new roller weights in the front variator. They wear flat spots afet a couple of years that ruin acceleration. (Special tool needed - I made one though), or new clutch shoes in the rear variator - or maybe they are just sticking and need a good clean. Spin everything by hand to check for noise/slop/ wobbliness and check the oil in the tiny rear gearbox (see owners handbook. You need a measuring cup and a paint syringe to get the exact amount right.
If you aren't confident use a good bike garage. weights are inexpensive and probably clutch shoes too so if you can do any labour yourself it won't break the bank. Google for a free SYM Joyride workshop manual by the way. Happy scootering

It's in need of gas or air. Start by removing air filter, if that don't help try choking it while riding it thus giving it more fuel. If that don't work repost the problem withas much info as you can. Could be anything from a bad plug to a jumped timing chain.

try to download from the web or contact sym manufacture ,or u might be able to get one from ebay .

which wires?please be more specific

Not a motorcycle guy, but I sure wouldn't think the exhaust would have to be removed. Quite the hassle if you were stuck on road with flat and hot exhaust. Good luck.

We used to do this by installing a push button switch on the Bulb to battery, then when it's pushed it will "Flash" the bulb, for as long as one has their finger on the button. Alternatively, just flick the main beam on and off?

i have a sym shark and there is no spark from the plug

what exhaust wouldn fit a sym symply 125cc

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly,
There is a heli-coil kit that you can get at most auto parts stores to do this repair and do it yourself.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/hel5334-14.html
HeliCoil 5334-14 - Sav-A-Thread 14Mx1.25 Spark Plug Thread Repair Kit This Time-sert repair is actually the best one but takes a very expensive special tool kit to install the inserts:
http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html

Most reputable motorcycle repair shops can do this for you..
or a machine shop. The head does NOT have to be removed but you must be able to remove any filings from the cylinder and head post repair.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

If the engine is turning it could be a broken piston, rings or damaged main bearing, gudgeon pin etc.