1988 Suzuki Rg 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

your clutch is simply a stack of friction disks and metal plates. The friction disks are splined into the outer hub ring and alternate, one friction disk / one plate / one friction disk / one plate etc. It's very simple to free this up if it's locked up. remove clutch cover. If you are unsure which is your clutch cover, follow the clutch lever cable to the actuator arm. remove the cable from arm and all bolts holding the cover. as you pull out the cover, you will see the arm rotate that's because it's geared into an arm that is connected to the front plate of the clutch basket assembly. You'll see it as soon as you pull it off. now you'll be looking at a round plate with 6 bolts with springs underneath. when you arent pulling the lever, these springs are extended and push the friction disks and metal plates together, thereby locking the inner hub to the outer hub. The inner hub is connected to the crank, and the outer hub is connected to the transmission input gear. So, if pressed together by the springs, your engine running causes your bike to move. Pulling the clutch lever in pulls the spring tension off the plates and allows them to separate. This allows your engine to be disconnected from the transmission. If your plates are locked together you will remove them one by one if you can and lubricate between each plate and disk and reinstalling. Pay close attention to how it came apart. Reinstall bolts and springs reinstall cover, aligning the lever gear teeth with the front of the clutches teeth correctly. put it all together and see if you are okay now.

your clutch cable/lever has become detatched at some point internal or external.

Check your gas tank vent cap, check your carb bowl vents. fuel filter.
open your tank and gently drive down the road and see if this helps. It may be pulling a vacuum.

u have a leaking head gaket or a cracked barrel or barrel seal.

you probably have a bad neutral switch, if it doesn't read neutral the light won't come on and the vehicle won't start unless it's in the neutral position. try push starting it in gear and see what happens.

The shift forks are the weakest part on these motorcycles. The clutch has nothing to do with a hard shift lever. If the clutch engages and dis-engages as it should then it is fine. A friend (or yourself) may have shifted up and down while the engine was not running. If the gear dogs didn't happen to line up at the time, a bent fork or two can happen. If your bike is a 1988 the forks have had a good life. The shop will likely charge $1000 or so for the repairs. You can reply by just posting a comment instead of posting from scratch. Could you rate my answer?

Bent shift forks are the problem. The shop will charge around $1000 to $1500 U.S. for the repairs. Sorry.

Try this site:
www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery.../suzuki/

sounds like a faulty battery to me, the headlamp is taking all the power and not leaving any to power the ignition system.

Check your Thermostat

what kind of bike are we working on?? the avg temp for the elec fan to turn onis around the 220 mark. the best thing to do here is bench test the bike start it up and let it idle, put a fan that moves air in front of the bike, this will help to keep things cool while the bike heats up i know it kinda back-@ssward but do it. a inferred temp gun will help you get the temp, you can pick one up at your local auto parts store. check the temp near the senser for the fan and the radiator itself. keeping a GOOD oil, clean oil in your bike that will help with the cooling as well. If your running a bike with a fuel filter ( If your not GET ONE ) make sure its clean. Bikes with fuel pump, you a two types in tank and external, your in tanks pumps should have a filter on them in the tank, over time they get clogged like a inline filter and can cause poor running as well.
If everything is working as it should you'll need to look into your coils. Heat causes resistance, resistance causes heat and heat causes wires to break down and contact points to to weaken. Coils take alot of abuse when it comes to electricity, it doesn't always happen but it does. coils go out and tire wear odd sometimes.
I hope this helps you out if you need any more help please feel free to contact me
Fix it right Ride it FAST
M.Woodring

There are several sizuki bandits...suggest adding the the model number...must of the inline 4 cylinders should have at least 4 spark plugs.

UNLESS YOU BUY THE TECH MANUAL YOU WILL HAVE TO GO ON LINE AND LOOK UP TORQ SPECS FOR METRIC BOLTS I DON'T KNOW OF ANY DEALER THAT WILL FURNISH THESE SPECS ON LINE
UNLESS YOU GO TO A DEALER AND TALK TO ONE OF THE MECHANICS

Adjust the idle to correct RPM say 900 or so.

check for bad grounds

Plug gap 26thou or 0.7mm
Valve gaps usually 8thou inlet and 12thou exhaust at TDC.

it will move up and down as necessary to keep the fuel level in check.also it has to move up and down to open and close the float valve

Look on your title for the VIN number (frame number). Call a Suzuki dealer and they should be able to tell you what year and model you have. This assumes the bike is within around 15 years old.

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.