20 Most Recent 1979 Suzuki GS 750 E - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I suspect it is a very similar set up to my 81. It would probably be much easier if you remove the carburetors, (Something I've had to do MANY times, haha) but I have gotten mine out with them on. There is a metal plate on top of the lower end engine block, behind the cylinder block. Take the bolts out of the plate and remove it. You will see the starter, with a couple of bolts in it. Take them out and remove the starter.

Yes, you need to replace the accelerator fuel pump assembly located on the carb. bracket and connected to the mechanical linkage next to one of the carbs. If that does not fix the problem try replacing the carburator bowl gasket's. That might do the trick!Good luck my friend,kd4ruaP.S. You can obtain a rebuild kit for the accelerator pump assembly from www.cyclepartsnation for a reasonable price.

you dont say whether you have pressure at the lever, ie the lever is stiff to pull, if yes then suspect the master cylinder is seized and needs overhaul or better still replacement, if you have no pressure then you either have air in the system or the master cylinder seals have failed this is again overhaul or replacement.

buy a bottle of sea foam and add to gas that should clean the varnish out well i use it about every 1500 miles

What do you consider a "horrible sound" and where is it coming from?
Does the front wheel spin freely, no binding, no bearing problems, no fender rub, etc.? Does the bike coast ok, with the clutch in and out and in all gears? Are the front calipers working ok and not sticking?

Not all carburetors are identical - the manufacturing processes create minute differences in the size and shape of the fuel lines inside the body of the carbs. The older the bike, the more imprecise the manufacturing and bigger the internal differences.
In your case the carbs with the malformed regulator needles were made over the tolerable manufacturing limits and to avoid scrapping them they had to modify the needles to keep the mixture uniform. When you replaced the modified needles the air intake to the fuel and mix jet was reduced, the fuel consumption went up and the mixture became rich in those cylinders. So you ended up with a much higher fuel intake for essentially the same power output from the engine.
You have 4 options:
1 - you put back the original needles;
2 - you keep the new needles but you modify the setup of those carbs - you lower the level in the bowk and you readjust all the jets;
3 - you remanufacture the entire carb to standard specs;
4 - you replace those carbs with good ones.

Yeah, you gotta lube the cable sometimes. It's important, 'cause if the cable hangs up the clutch may not throw in fully.

PbBlaster will probably work well, Tri-flow brand oil is good for cables. WD-40 will help work out water if there is any in there, follow it with a lubricant such as I mention above.

lp

It shouldn't be no more than 200 to 350 dollars if a small engine repair shop does it......Hope this helps.

Theres a set on ebay right now bud
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/77-SUZUKI-GS-750-GS750-GOOD-SET-OF-CARBURETORS-CARBS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a59c70406QQitemZ250614318086QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Item number 250614318086

here in canada leaded fuel is not available, and i have never experienced any engine damage done with unleaded, there was talk of valve damage possible but it was unfounded, even the calssics have not experienced any damage, so feel safe

The simple answer is no. It is possible to put a complete 1000 engine into the 750. but this will involve making brackets etc.
Proberbly the easiest way to more power is to fit the barrells and top end from the GS850. This will fit straight on. Ideally, you will need the 850's carb, but the 750s could be jetted to suit. The exhaust is the same fittings, so you could retain the gs750 exhaust as well. They also share the same airbox.

CHECK THAT YOU HAVE PROPER FLOAT HEIGHT AND THAT THE NEEDLE VALVE IS NOT STICKING. I HAD A SIMULAR PROBLEM ON MY 1979 GS850 ALL I DID WAS TAKE OFF FLOAT BOWL AND ADJUST FLOAT HEIGHT A LITTLE AND CLEANED NEEDLE OFF SEEMS TO HAVE WORKED NO GAS ON OUTSIDE OF CARBS NOW

its on the left or rite of crankshaft below cylinder-purchase a clymer manual for details and thanks for goin olscool

Would like to help you out I need more info.What connections are you talking about? Just Let Me Know
D.

The numbers should be on the front of the frame just ahead of the gas tank and behind the steering sector on the right-hand side. Often times it will tell you the year model too. If not, copy down the v.i.n. and any police officer can run it for you through their computer and it will give you all the information you want. Good luck; John

The simple way is put a volt meter acoss the battery, should read 12v engine stopped and about 13.5 with the engine running. Make sure the battery is in good condition and charged first.
if there is no voltage rise it may be the regulator, but the problem could also be the stator.
They should have three wires of the same color going to the regulator(white or yellow) any pair of these wires will produce ac voltage when the bike runs, about 50v, and none of these wires should have continuity to earth.

main fuse protect sthe whole system from power surges caused by a bad stator or regulator,then the other fuzes are for lights,horn, and are usually marked. if the main fuze blows it will shut down the ignition to prevent damage to wires,coils, and anything else. your answer, no there is no fuze just for coils,only the main.

You almost certainly have a bad coonnection somewhere, have a look behind the headlight to start with. Really, you need to do some electrical fault finding with a multi tester. Try to pin point exactly when the fuse is blowing - ie when u switch something on, or when you start up..... Some times the tank of these can rub o hole in the wiring loom underneath - check there. There are many electrical `potential` probs with gs`s but they can be rectified. Try the GSRESOURCE site for more assistance.

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs750-b-c-ec-n-en-1977-1979-usa_model16048/partslist/

This site has exploded views of the bike in sections, all parts are numbered and named.

Cheers.

Hi and welcome to the site,

To my recollection, wiring of a Windjammer:

• white - high;
• yellow - low;
• black - ground;
• violet - left;
• blue - right;
• green - running light;
• red - cigarette lighter;
• brown - accessory;
  
• orange - accessory.

While the Suzuki would have:

• yellow - high;
• white - low;
• black/white - ground;
• black - left;
• green - right;

Good luck and thank you for asking.