20 Most Recent 2002 Moto Guzzi California 1100 EV Touring Questions & Answers

The Cali' Special tyre pressures:- --------------- 1 RIDER.---------------------- 2 RIDERS Front ...... 2.3 Bar(33.5psi) ................... 2.3Bar(33.5psi) Rear ....... 2.5Bar(36.3psi) .................... 2.9Bar(42psi) I use BT45's on mine but I have the ordinary tubed rims. I find the ride harsh but this may be down to suspension rather than tyres. People recommend running the BT45 at a slightly higher pressure than the book. I got 8500 miles from the front and 4700 from the rear. Although the rear was changed slightly early due to a puncture. I will probably try a different make next time.

You have spent alot of money on this. To no avail, have you had this on a dyno check the runningwith diagnostics

Check your connections with your battery, you probably disturbed or incompletely put your battery cables on. Any chance you accidentally hooked the battery up backwards for a second? I would check your fuses...

May I suggest a trip to your local library. Cycle repair books should be in 646 stacks of reference.

Lube the cable with a pressure luber and lever pirch. WD40 works well. If its that bad the cable probably needs replaced altogether.
Best wishes

I did exactly that... see my youtube for 2004EV and 2006 Griso http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfxNmIXxg_4

If the oil is at operating temp ie: your checking the oil straight after a decent run then a small amount of oil smoke is normal. Check the flakey bits with a magnet if it is ferris it may be some case hardening coming off something if not ferris, I wouldn't worry about it.,,,

so I got the front bearings changed after all the hassle with the locked bolt and then the bike fails the MOT because the floating disc on the front moves a fraction when brake is locked making a clunk. It was doing same last year but passed ! I seem to remember somewhere on a forum (might not have been here) a listing of bikes that share the same disc as the Cali 1100i - a 300mm flaoting disc with 5 studs Anyone any idea what other makes share the same disc or how to find out? Can't afford the £400 from Motomecca so will need to Ebay for it Check it's the disc which is worn, and not the centre, I had that problem on the back, and it was the centre not the disc which was worn. Even then I only got an advisary, not a fail, and it was moving quite a lot. Mine is a Spada III, same as the Cali III and Mille 1000. All had the 300mm floating disc on 5 studs. The disc and centre are flat.,,,

all the other gears are working fine but it just wont engage in top. Tried it at all different revs but nothing it just will not go in. What should i do?sounds like a possible selecter at fault.,,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vwnijg8bTxE

what is the original problem that makes you think it is cam shaft problem If the manufacturer used cheap cams (not likely as it affects the brand name) the engine is under warranty and the cams would be replaced by the company Find a different service center or contact the manufacturer direct to see if there is a recall out on the engine consider this --if it is a moto guzzi mechanic that was telling you this , then why was it not booked in for replacement parts under warranty I suspect that he was trying to get extra money out of you and was not qualified in the product

Bad connection or faulty starter. Check voltage/current to the starter when you press start - should be around 8/9 volts for a 12 volt system - if considerably higher suspect starter, if lower and little current flowing suspect poor connection somewhere. If the voltage is low and current high suspect starter.

Probably have to remove the seat first. Most fuel tanks are retained by u shaped flanges that grip a round rubber puck on both sides of the frame near the steering head. After you drain the fuel, lift the rear of the tank slightly and pull it to the rear, it should then be free to lift off the frame.

Could be running way to lean and the fuel may have too much alcohol or water or the injectors may be clogged/restricted.

I don't know what vehicle/equipment you're referencing here. With that in mind, can you drill a hole or holes through the chassis just below the gas cap to allow water to escape?

oil leaks during use indicate a loose bearing adjustment allowing the oil to move past the seal lip when rotating I would be checking wheel bearing condition and adjustment, oil level in that section and wear groove for where the oil seal lip runs reasoning is , when the wheel is stationary the oil is not being splashed around and will settle in the lowest places when moving , if the seal housing is allowed to move separate to the axle position ( wobble , up down sideways etc) then small gaps appear between the seal lip and what it runs on and so oil is allowed to escape if it is a drive shaft to the rear wheel check the output shaft to the wheel for movement ( bad bearings , adjustment/ preload ) or anything that will not keep the shaft in the center of the seal

Could it be immobilized? Try disconnecting the battery.