20 Most Recent 2005 Kymco Zing 125 Questions & Answers

Hello ! Being an automatic shock, you can not manually interfere with it. If the shock is not working in the cold season, fault is the lack of power supply, or internal shock failure, more likely the thermistor pocket, creates problems by shortening it in most cases, or the connections of the slipper connectors etc. Check the presence of alternating voltage (12 volts) of power supply after starting the engine, with a small 12-volt bulb, or with a measuring device. With the engine off, disconnect the connectors, and with the Rx measuring instrument, also measure the thermal resistance of the thermistor, and the state of the contacts, you should find approximate 40-60 Ohms. Any deviation higher upwards or downwards, indicates a malfunction, and must be interfered with when it is removed. The construction shoe consists of a metallic capsule of the size of a cigarette filter, which at one end has a rod that comes in or out of the environment. At the other end is the thermistor, which is powered by a 2-wire the scooter's engine. This voltage heats the thermistor, which in turn heats the thermostatic capsule, it has an inertia to the piston's expansion, dictates the time for the heating of the engine, etc. at maximum cascade heating, rod relaxation will act and reduce excess gasoline, the engine entering normal speed. Hopefully, I was very helpful! Good luck

01159 596969 And ask for james Lisk. It's a charity in Nottingham called Wheelbase that sell's spare parts and specializes in Chinese and Taiwanese bikes

I found an owner's instruction manual on the net in Spanish that says:0,05 mm - 0,1 mmThis means that the valve clearance is 0.05 to 0.1 mm. A slightly tight adjustment using a 0.1 feeler gage should be ok and the real clearance would then probably be ca. 0.08 mm.

You should replace the fuel also as fuel deteriorates over time.Drain the tank and replace with new fuel.Also drain the carb.as it will still have old fuel in it.

pull the line off the caliper and pump the brake and see if fluid is getting to the caliper first.

It is good for invest cost but bad for quality.

harness issue?i was an electrical sysems troubleshooter on planes.do any other switches do anything crazy?

block your sender. but really this is the wrong place for this.

Not always necessary to change the regulator/rectifier. Check all connections to make sure they are clean, use a good contact cleaner and finish off with dielectric grease on your electrical connections.
When some bikes get a few years on them the connections get dirty. Check to see if there are any burned or discolored wires anywhere around the regulator. The FIX on some bikes is to cut the connector completely out and solder the wires together and either seal them with heat shrink of a good electrical tape. Loose or bad connections get hot. As long as the regulator and rectifier are working there is no need to replace them if the connections are good.
Ride Safely, Ed

Check the battery negative cable if its tightened well to the frame or the engine, check too, the fuse box and the main wire to the starter solenoid and the connections to the starter too, this sounds to be an electrical lose connection somewhere..just go along throught the wires and connections..
Hope this helps!

Hi, I'd check that one of the brakelight switches isn't stuck on, as if it's the park light it should put the front one on as well, some bikes have the headlight/taillight hardwired so come on with ign. on. The starter should have a fuse, check it, if ok, follow the main wires from the starter motor to the solinoid & check power's getting through with a test light (an old globe with a length of wire will do), the solinoid should have one large power cable to it from batt. with full time power, another the same going to starter that get's power when start button's pressed & a smaller one which should get power when start button's pressed (activates solinoid). if it is getting power to the starter when button's pressed, starter probably needs new brushes or just a good clean out, hope this helps.

just change the whole thing, then you can bench strip the od one and find out just what you need

have you checked that none of the exhaust shelids are lose

the regulator is located under the sit. its a black box with fins

the problem may be that there is not anuf power in the battery or the starter motor is on its way out

Yes, the battrey is problem 1. the battery should be charged or buy the new battery. 2.while buying new battery you can go for higher voltage capcity battery

A good patch job (removing the tire and repairing with a patch on the inside of it) I feel is much better than a plug IMHO I used to do allot of automotive tire repairs with patches and can't remember if any actually came apart or became defective. The plug may have a tendency to loosen and leak. On the other hand allot of people would replace the tire just to have peace of mind with regards to motorcycle tires. 1500 miles is close enough to justify replacement. ,,

then i rode it and it bogs out now i realize that it needs to get more gas and have the exhaust opened up too do i have the right idea i need some input on what to do to fix this!,With any engine, if you give it the potential to pull more air (like you did with your airbox) and breathe better (like you did with your exhaust), you have to keep the balance of fuel by jetting. Hopefully the carburetor on that machine is adjustable. If not, but it back to stock.,,,

Some scooters seat latches operate with the ignition key switch.
Turn it left and right as you lift the seat.
Sometime you have to push down on the seat while you turn the key
Some have a key right on the left side of the bike for the seat latch.

If you have no key, you can pull off the rear rack and then take off the plastics above the tail light.
Once that plastic is off you can reach the latch with a screwdriver or needle nose pliers.