Hi, Mark and the usual suspects are:
1. Wheels and or tires worn or damaged.
2. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly.
3. Primary chain is badly worn or links too tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment.
4. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose.
5. Upper engine mounting bracket loose.
6. Ignition timing incorrect due to a poorly tuned engine.
7. Internal engine problem flywheels have shifted.
8. Broken frame.
9. Stabilizer links worn or loose.
10. Rubber mounts loose or worn.
11. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose.
12. Front engine mounting bolts loose.
13. Worn out or broken universal joint on shaft drive models.
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Hi, Keith you may have a weak spring that engages the detent on the shifter drum for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Kawasaki Concours 1000GTR Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki 1000GTR Owner Manual Kawasaki GTR1000 Kawasaki Concours
Hi, Nigel it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. This Forum has Been Replaced Idle mixture adjustment carburetor air or fuel screw Video Dailymotion Kawasaki Concours 1000GTR Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki 1000GTR Owner Manual
Hi, Dean and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day. Kawasaki Concours 1000GTR Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki 1000GTR Owner Manual
Sorry. I\'m from Europe, know things about electronics and computers but I don\'t drive a Kawasaki GTR 1000. Lots of questions about electronics, camera\'s, computers phones and operating systems I try to answer. For the more than 2000 answers I gave I got lots and lots of thanks, but I never got one penny. All the people who try to answer questions, do this for free. They at least have the standard they don\'t try to sell crap or don\'t answer things they don\'t have any idea from.
If none of all the volunteers has (or has had) a Kawasaki GTR 1000 it is not likely anyone can answer this question. I do have some manuals, yes even service manuals of motor bikes, but not one from Kawasaki, so I even can\'t look up what I could answer to your question.
I think one call to a place where they sell Kawasaki cam tell you what oil you need. They perhaps even have it in stock. But not knowing any motor home close to me, I do not make such a call.
I hope you understand all the volunteers here do their best, but can\'t answer all questions. I do have to admit your questions are very clear and better to understand than lots of other questions, but we (till now) don\'t have an answer.
Is it bogging down, or just stops revving at the point...first check the throttle cable, twist it wide open and make sure it's opening all the way...after awhile they tend to stretch and that won't allow you full power....i hope this helps.
you could try and adjust your shift lever. it sounds like you have a bent/worn out shifter fork. changing a shifter fork in the transmision is a lot of work.you have to remove the engine from the frame and split the cases.Sorry probably not what you wanted to hear but this should be done at a bike shop.
Check the ignition coils to begin with and basically follow the wiring back to the stator making sure you have proper voltage at each component, also check to make sure everything is grounded properly, it is very common for the grounds to be corroded on marine equipment. I will have to check but I am sure I have a dealer service/ troubleshooting manual for kawasaki skis, so if you have any other questions about yours let me know.