20 Most Recent 1987 kawasaki GTR 1000 Questions & Answers

http://www.z1enterprises.com/

does not list everything he has ,but can get just about anything kawasaki contact him and ask..

hi buddy what seal do you mean there are many if you can see it on the outside you can remove it with a screw driver but make sure when you put the new one in its all clean on the out side and you oil it up buddy hope this helped

Sound like the sidestand switch. Follow the wires from the switch to where they can be unplugged, and jumper together the ends on the bike side, not the stand side, this should over-ride the switch to see if it fixes the problem. If it does, the switch is bad.

I found a microfiche for the GTR1000 and it looks like the indicator-relay is mounted on the front-fairing inner-frame (fairing stay) on the right-hand side ie next to the headlamp-ish.

If it's not the bulb, then it will either be the switch gear or the relay. Try changing the main light relay first. If that doesn't help, you'll have to trace the power coming from the switchgear and find where the fault is. Might mean cleaning the terminals..

Sounds like either a flat battery ( check electrolyte levels and re-charge ) or a jammed starting motor.
If it is the starting motor then raise the rear wheel, put bike into first gear and with the ignition OFF try to rotate the wheel back or forwards. You can also do this with both wheels on the ground and rock the bike back and forwards , in first gear with the ignition OFF.
In future try to start the bike with the lights OFF as this reduces the power load on the battery.
Allways make sure the ignition is OFF when trying to free a jammed starter as there will be the chance of the bike starting and it will run away from you.
Good luck. jamesey555

Usually the air/fuel mixture screws have a brass cap on them! The only way to get to them effectively is to remove the bank of 4 carburators and drill out the brass cap and remove with a self-tapping screw.
If you have an owners manual or a service manual it will show you where they are located. What make and model and year is the bike we are talking about?

1. The closest i can get you to the brass caps is to tell you they are on the bottom of the carburators near the float bowls. You will see a small stem sticking up that is cast aluminum and it is there that you want to drill a hole. Use a 1/8" drill bit or a 3/16" bit to drill a small hole in the caps. NOTE: THE AIR/FUEL mixture screws are right underneath the brass cap, so drill slowly as to not damage the flat blade screw under the cap!!
2. Then once you have all the holes drilled, take the small self tapping screw and screw it in slightly so as to grab ahold of the brass cap. Then once you have all the brass caps removed, adjust the idle screws out 2 1/2 turns out.
3. Next, i recommend buying a jet kit and installing it in the carbs as this will make the bike run better. (Your choice at this point). Around $120.00 for jet kit and $50.00 for air filter.
4. Also, if you order a jet kit, it will have pictures and directions on how to find the pilot / (Air/Fuel mixture screws).
5. Also when reinstalling carbs, spray WD-40 on intake boots and carbs to help them slip into place easier...
6. Next step is to tighten all the loose bolts on the boots for airbox and the intake boots.

• I guess the easiest thing i can tell you to do is join a forum for your peticular motorcycle and they will have directions on what to do exactly step by step.
• Good luck and let me know if i can help u further...HDTV GURU JAY

The air mixture settings dont often change by themselves, its usually a small screw under the carb, and is sometimes blanked over with a alum plug .
as the air filter gets old it can richen the mixture even if the filter looks ok and clean.
the carbs float bowls can flood due to dirt or corrosion as will require a carb overhaul.
If the air filter or exhaust has been changed from standard, this can mean rejetting, the air screws have their main effect at idle

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

What's it doing maybe I can help?

go to the official website of kawasaki
the oficial website is www.kawasakimotocycles.com
then type in the search bar 1991 product manual for kawasaki
download it from the website
then you can go through it according to your convinience
thanks


with regards,
asitroutrocks

This is pretty normal if the bike has stood for some time. Basically, your clutch plates had stuck together. By engaging first, you have shocked them apart. After the initial 'lurch' all should be well. Run it around for a day or two, then change the oil.
If it continues to lurch, you may have to clean the clutch plates up. This is not a difficult job. Drain the oil, remove the clutch cover, remove the clutch bolts and springs and clean any gunk that is on them.

Try the following website. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..

IGNITION SYSTEM for Kawasaki GT750 1992 # KAWASAKI - Online Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue (bike-parts-kawa.com)

We are in North America, so this link might work better for you than it does for me. I can only find a Parts Catalogue and an Owner Manual. https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+kaze+zx130+service+manual ..