The Chilton and Haynes manuals are your best bet. Order it at your local Autozone or goto the Library and research them online fro free. You can get most of this info for free if you have a library card directly from the Chilton Manuals perhaps the links below will help good luck.
Free Service Manuals how to find
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Service manuals are everywhere in the internet and you should even get them if you search with the correct name. But with a little additional words you can Add:
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http://www.freeautorepairmanualz.com/
http://www.haynes.com/onlinerepairmanuals/
http://www.citruslibraries.org/
http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/vehicle_diagnostic_flow_charts_explained.asp
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BOOT FAILURE TROUBLESHOOTING FLOWCHART
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A very good source on car and truck repair would be from chilton manuals. You can purchase them at https://www.chiltondiymanuals.com
or even better you can go the the public library or login with you library card to look at the chilton manuals online. you might also try looking at these videos:
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Get a new grommet for it, they tend to get old and not hold well. You should be able to run the bike with the cap off. If there is a lot of pressure inside of the oil tank while it is idling(Blowby) you might need to have your engine worked on. The oil should circulate inside of the tank but not look like a tornado is inside of the tank.
You can usually look on the rotor and find the min. The specs are not usually published (they don't want someone making a 'better' product). Pad thickness is really not something you see published, one more often then not judges if the pads need replacement (along with the rotors) by wear and remaining usable materail. Hope this helps.
Bowden cables like your clutch cable work on the law of the lever.
Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed.
The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.,,,
Try these checks. First you can't check compression by listening to an engine. With the ignition OFF sit on the bike as normal with the kick stand up. Put it into First gear, release the clutch lever and try to roll the bike forwards about a bike's length. If the bike rolls less than a shoe length then refuses to roll that is good compression on the engine.
Black smoke out of the exhaust suggests there was too much fuel being sent to the cylinder. If it is cranking and trying to start it suggests it is still a fuel issue. This time possibly not enough fuel. Check the fuel filter is clean. Replace it if your not sure as they are not normally expensive to buy.
Check the air filter as well. A dirty air filter can affect the engine more than you think. Try these checks and use the comment button below if you need more help.
It sounds like the spark plug hole in the head may be damaged. Can you get the plug out to check? Plugs should always be removed when the engine is cold, especially with aluminium cylinder heads. If you can get the plug out and the threads are damaged you can a shop to put in a Heli-Coil to repair the threads.
Older Buell Blast, mine, has a lever toward the middle of the seat, accessed from the wheel well. Pull the lever toward the right (front brake) side of the bike. Lift the back of the seat near the tail on both sides and pull back to slip the front tongue of the seat back away from the gas tank.
Found the above........any good?
