20 Most Recent 2003 ATK 250 Questions & Answers

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Well sounds like you need to experiment with the idle screw, or maybe your forgetting that your not using a car give it a little gas while its not in gear. Every so often your throttle will need to be pumped to keep enough gas being injected into the bike so it will keep firing.

Dimensions Seat height945 mm (37.2 inches) Wheelbase1486 mm (58.5 inches) Fuel capacity - reserve14 l (3.7 gallon US) Dry weight107 kg (235.9 pounds) ENGINE Type249 cc, liquid cooled, single cylinder, 2-stroke Bore x stroke (mm)67.5 mm x 69.8 mm Fuel system38mm Mikuni TMX IgnitionElectronic, 100w lighting output Most of the performance "trick" products don't perform as well as the flashy promos say. Some actually lessen the performance. The bike manufacturer put a lot of time and money into research and development as well as quality manufacturing. Honestly, check with the dealer and get the bike back to stock condition. Check with him on the capacities for your model bike. If you want more zip then just ride harder than the next guy. You have the throttle in your hand and your'e angry, now ride like it. As far as power adders > it's all in the wrist. If you want to come out of the hole and out of the corners quicker then get a rear sprocket with 4 to 6 additional teeth. The top end will be less but most riding is not at top speed. Keep the chain lubricated. The one thing service wise you may want to do is install new crank seals. This guarantees a good flow of gas is sucked into the crankcase and forced into the cylinder. Please rate this solution. Thanks main_thng!

well first off the carb is sealed, it is flow tested at the factory for optimine fuel air mixture and then sealed, if u remove the seal and insist on adjusting it set the engine to specified hot idle speed and then turn screw for highest idle rpm, the adjust 1/8 turn lean, this will slow the idle slightly but give optimal fuel air ratio at idle hot engine.
Best plug and the correct plug is the NGK type B8ES - GAP- 0.5 millimeters
go 2 teeth bigger on the rear sprocket, leave the front alone.

and I want to send them to someone who knows what they are looking at. I am currently considering Ohlins or Pro Action. Just wondering if there is an advantage of one over the other? Just wondering what everyone's experience has been with Pro Action. I know Ohlins will be top notch but didn't Pro Action originally set the bikes up and put their own valving in the shocks/forks? I think you have MX-Tech confused with Pro-Action. When Cannondale was in business at a regional qualifier for Loretta's the Pro-Action guy was there (George Quay) and they completely worked over my suspension, making a night and day difference. I have also used MX-Tech. Be sure to be honest when you tell them how much you weigh, how fast your are, etc.,,,

Jeeze its simple Deatons.When parts run out they get produced.Whether by ATKBlackwidowTimboCanniboomer,combination or whoever.Latest has been cases.Pistons,bearings,cranks,seals all come to mind as parts that ran out or were defective and have been replaced.As far as I know there is no shortage of frames and they arent defective so they arent being made yet. ,,,

000 miles just around the corner and the nights drawing in it is time to take the plunge and do the top end on my stroke 250 this autumn/winter. I've never attempted anything like this so if anyone has any tips or pitfalls to avoid please let me know.See my posts about about my recent seizure because a PV failed. I am pretty mechanically stupid. I never thought I'd do motor work or remove the motor. I was always amazed people on this forum did it. But I was able to remove the motor and it was pretty easy. Haven't totally disassembled it so I can't say piston replacement or bottom end taking apart is easy. But there's not much to it. Especially a top end where it's 5 nuts for the head and 4 for the cylinder. Take pictures write down things (everything you do if you want to to make sure you reverse everything) and keep some order for the parts you take off. I have put every bolt and nut I took off to disassemble something right back on so I don't end up with a big pile of bolts and nuts. Get an impact driver, a manual one is fine, to do any screw removal for the PVs. Don't even attempt to use a screwdriver or you'll mess up the screws.,,,

nup. The quality of insulation and distribution of heat is more important. A lot of warmers don't distribute heat well and don't insulate so struggle to get to or hold temp. A warmer should heat not just the tread section but sidewall and rim. If you can get the rim warm, it will keep the temp of the tyre more stable.,,,

Hi,,,you will need to remove the side engine cover(kick start side) sounds like the kick start gear has jammed.

hi,take the plastic cover off the top of the caliper,look inside the caliper and you will see where the brake pin comes through from the outside,you should see a small"r"clip going through the brake pin,remove the "r" clip and the pin will slide out,dont forget to put the clip back in when you reassemble the caliper...cheers 

The seal on the clutch actuator arm shaft is leaking.

should be cast in block next to fill plug.