this has to be done with a torque gauge, you tighten the head bolts to a specific torque, then a bit more not sure of what then you use a gauge and turn the wrench quarter of a turn I think but this is just to let you know you need a torque gauge, not a wrench although you need one of them as well. JUST PHONE A DEALER MATE usually helpful.
Sounds like the starter motor has engaged and then stuck out. Either take the starter motor off to make sure it is fine and then reassemble. Or if your feeling brave, I'd try putting it in gear and then push the bike forward/backwards to see if the starter motor returns to it's original position. Then retry to start it with the electric start switch.
Start by checking the starter button. It is a two function switch. It turns the headlight off and activates the solenoid. Try cleaning it , some disassembly may be required. If it is broken you may have to change the right switch assembly to fix the problem. If the button is good I would next start checking the wire connections for the handle bar switches , Normally located in the head light bucket or behind the headlight the problem could be as simple as a loose power wire.
Hi, Allan before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.gixxer.com/threads/battery-not-charging.552449/#post-7752073 https://www.gsxr.com/threads/gsxr-charging-system-101.225306/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevgFfi_oaY https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1212456/Suzuki-Gsr750.html https://www.manualslib.com/manual/813897/Suzuki-Gsx-R750.html https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/
Hi, Richard and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. A failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen the gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from the intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1321428000 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jPjq_aAy-8 https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1165889/Suzuki-Ls650-Savage.html https://www.partsfish.com/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://www.savageriders.com/verslagen/transfer/2002_LS650P_Owners_Manual.pdf