The first thing to try is putting a couple of fuel tanks of injector cleaner (properly mixed) through the injection system.
Also clean the IAC (idle air control)
If you got any magnetism near the left side wheel bearing you will have destroyed its sensing/signalling ability. The magnetic pickup should only go back on one way in one position but check that it is located near the sensing wheel bearing. When it goes on it should be rotated up If the wheel somehow got mixed up and on backwards the magnetic bearing would be on the wrong side, away from the pickup. Check your wiring for damage.
Never pull the wheel speed sensor cable taut or use it to support any other parts.Install the wheel speed sensor with the index pin on the out-board side or the sensor will be damaged. After the axle is installed rotate the front wheel speed sensor until the index pin makes contact with the shoulder on the fork slider and then route the wheel speed sensor cable up to the lower fork bracket along with the brake hose.
If installing a new sensor on a Road King and other Fork mounted fairing models turn the front wheel to the right fork stop and then feed the connector up through the opening in the front of the lower fork bracket and connect it to the socket housing.
If installing a new sensor on a frame mounted fairing model first turn the front wheel to the right fork stop and then connect the front wheel speed sensor connector and feed the connector under the main wiring harness conduit into the left side of the fairing bracket.
In all cases secure the sensor cable and fender tip lamp wires using
three cable straps as follows by capturing the front wheel
speed sensor cable and brake hose at the brake hose lower crimp and then about the middle of the way between the upper and lower brake hose crimps and securing both the wheel speed sensor cable and the brake hose along with the front fender tip lamp wires, if is has a fender tip lamp. THEN about 2.5 in. (63.5 mm) below the brake hose upper crimp secure the front wheel speed sensor cable, the brake hose and again, if there is a fender tip lamp, the front fender tip lamp wires. The I insert the front wheel speed sensor cable in the clip by pushing on the lip at the rear of the clip to disengage it from the bracket, rotate the tab stamped ABS rearward until the clip is perpendicular to the bracket and install the cable and then rotate the tab forward and apply pressure until the lip engages and then gently pull the cable to verify that the clip is installed properly.
No ...There is a plunger switch in tranny just replace the s/w or try cleaning it i think its on top front youll see 2 wires going to it ... good luck ';';'
These floats can be tricky to get out. First, you have to remove the gauge if it's in the place where a fuel cap normally goes. I'm not too familiar with the later models. The fuel gauge is held in by a rubber ring. Rock the gauge while pulling on it gently. The wires that connect it to the sending unit are very short and you don't want to pull them loose. The sending unit is held in by four or five small screws. Take them out and work the float arm and float out of the tank. You'll have to be very careful that you don't bend the float arm while trying to get it out and back into the tank. Replace the gasket underneath the sending unit flange. There may be a small pin to assist in the grounding connection of the unit in the gasket, watch for it. If you need a troubleshooting guide, I can send you one for an older bike but the principle is the same. [email protected]
I don't have a setting for that particular carb either. This is not uncommon when dealing with the Japanese carbs. Just set the float level the same as previous year models. The difference in the carbs is the later model had an extra mid-range port in it that fed directly from the float bowl. If you look at the float bowl, you see an extra hole in it. Inside the throat of the carb, you see an extra mid-range port that is kind of down on the side of the venturi. The 'transition ports" are at the top of the carb as well as the idle port.
A website called Motorcycleid.com that offers a variety of parts and accessories for your Harley Davidson, including battery mounts and hardware. I couldn't find the exact size of the bolt that fits the battery box on your 2005 Harley Davidson Lierider. However, you can try contacting Harley Davidson's customer service at 1-800-258-2464 and ask them for the bolt size . They may be able to help you locate the bolt or suggest an alternative
'd1ag' for Diagnostic or Service model.
To enter the diagnostic system and retrieve a trouble code, hold down the trip reset button while turning the ignition from off to on. This will allow you to cycle through the categories, and see which one indicates a code.Feb 9, 2021
just the light says so?"N" will not glow.
or both light N and bike will not push roll>
are brakes looked up, seized.
rolls with clutch pulled in?
ive driving vast motor cycle brands, even old harley 45 flat heads. back to 1963
some I have to jog the bike in gear key out ,clutch not touched.
to get the gears to free up and find neutral
the gear have a thing called dogs. that must un lock
also some bikes
have lots of switches to make a starter work
clutch switch
Neutral
kick stand.
the shifter parts my be a bit rusty
Chopper Bob would have been the best, but says 'Temporarily Close'. I would phone in case it is old COVID data.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Harley+Davidson+mechanic+near+Newark%2C+Ohio
Here are the dealerships in Ohio.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Harley+Davidson+Ohio
You don't say what's wrong, but you may be able to fix it yourself with the help of Fixya and YouTube.
Please always include full 'year make model' in all questions. There are over 10,000 categories including every Harley Davidson model, and most years. I edited your post to add Mr Davidson and put it in the HD generic maker category.
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Replacing the kickstand on a Harley FXRT requires some disassembly and careful handling. Here are the general steps to replace the kickstand:
Preparation: Ensure you have the necessary tools, a new kickstand, and any replacement parts such as bushings or cotter pins.
Safety precautions: Place the motorcycle on a stable surface and secure it with a stand or by having someone hold it steady. Put on protective gear such as gloves and safety glasses.
Removing the cotter pin: Locate the cotter pin that holds the kickstand in place. It is usually located near the pivot point where the kickstand attaches to the frame. Use pliers or a cotter pin removal tool to remove the cotter pin.
Detaching the kickstand: Once the cotter pin is removed, carefully slide the kickstand out from its mounting bracket. You may need to gently tap it to loosen it if it's stuck. Take note of any bushings or spacers that may be present on the cotter pin side of the kickstand.
Inspecting and replacing parts: Examine the removed kickstand for any damage or wear. If there is a missing bushing or the kickstand is worn, replace it with a new one. Additionally, inspect the mounting bracket and other related parts for any signs of damage or wear. Replace any damaged or worn parts as necessary.
Installing the new kickstand: Insert the new kickstand into the mounting bracket, making sure it aligns properly. If there were bushings or spacers on the cotter pin side, ensure they are in place before inserting the kickstand. Slide it in fully, allowing it to rest in its proper position.
Securing the kickstand: Insert a new cotter pin through the designated hole on the kickstand and frame bracket. Ensure it passes through completely and securely. If necessary, bend the ends of the cotter pin to prevent it from slipping out.
Testing and adjustments: Before fully tightening any bolts, test the kickstand by lowering it and verifying that it extends and retracts smoothly. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure proper operation.
Final steps: Once you are satisfied with the installation and functionality of the new kickstand, reassemble any other components or parts that were removed during the process. Double-check that all fasteners are securely tightened.
It's important to consult the specific service manual or instructions for your Harley FXRT model for detailed guidance. If you are not confident in performing the replacement yourself, it's recommended to seek assistance from a professional motorcycle mechanic.
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to maker category.
The best idea is to get a Service Manual for it.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1986+harley+davidson+fxr+service+manual
Things like Torque specs can be found on Google by searching 'year make model (the part) bolt torque.
