Top 20 2007 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide Questions & Answers

first off get a new compensator bolt, or any other wrecked parts, Torque your compensator bolt to around 100 ft lbs then back it off one full turn and torque to 150 ft lbs using a few drops of RED LOCKTITE> It wont back off again and still is a serviceable component.

You have more than likely got the new cable installed incorrectly. If all was working before the cable change, then you have done something wrong. First thing is to check your work. Next question is can you pull the clutch lever? If so, and there is no play there, then adjustment is probably all that is needed. First loosen the cable adjuster until to have loads of play in the lever. If you cannot achieve this, then you have installed the cable incorrectly. If you can get play, then remove the derby cover. Loosen the adjustment screw lock nut. Screw out the screw until it turns freely. Then gently turn the screw in until you can feel resistance. Back it off a half turn and tighten the locknut making sure the adjuster does not turn. Then adjust the cable adjuster until you have approx. 1/16" free play at the cable end where it enters the clutch lever perch.

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Overcharging is normally caused by a faulty regulator. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running between 2000-3600 RPM, depending on system specs, your readings should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If your voltage is higher than this you have a faulty voltage regulator. Under charging can also be caused by a faulty regulator or stator/rotor/wiring.

Sounds like a worn shaft bushing allowing the armature to rub on the field windings of the starter.

Question about 2007 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide Peter, There is a Harley Tech Tip out for just what you are experiencing TT410. Attached links has 3 pages you can click through or download pdf. "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." File preview TT410 pdf

All fuses on 2007 FLHX are mounted inside the left side cover, behind the Maxi fuse. Remove the left pannier, then the Maxi fuse. Pull fuse block from tabs on mounting bracket. Tabs on bracket fit into slots on each side of fuse block cover. Remove the fuse block cover. Raise lipped side slightly to disengage slots from tabs on fuse block

Engine compensating nut (should not be reused) - 155 -165 ft/lbs, right hand thread,. Clutch mainshaft nut, 70 - 80 ft/lbs, left hand thread. Two drops of 262 Loctite.

Oil light switch is a normally closed unit so first off test with an ohmmeter to see if there is an open which would not complete the circuit not allow the light to work.Then check to see if there is any current to the oil switch. If there is you could jumper the wire to ground which if the light then goes on indicates that the switch is bad. If no current to the switch you will have to trace back and find out where the open in the circuit is. There may be no oil pressure due to lack of oil or a faulty oil pump. Check the oil level and add oil if low, then restart the engine and verify that the oil pressure light goes off and that the oil gauge indicates pressure. If the problem still exists you will need to check out the oil pump. If the gauge shows oil pressure but the light does not go off it may be that the contacts in the pressure sending unit are not opening to break the circuit and shut off the light. If the gauge does not show pressure it may be that the variable resistor in the sender is shorted to ground. Locate the oil pressure sending unit on the front right side of the crankcase and verify that the electrical connector is properly connected to the sending unit. If the oil pressure gauge indicates pressure but the low oil pressure light remains on remove the electrical connector from the oil pressure sending unit and using a small jumper wire place one end on the indicator lamp terminal (the closest to the latch on the sending unit) and place the other end on the crankcase. The Ohmmeter must read less than one ohm. THEN start the engine and run at a fast idle. The ohmmeter must read infinity (OL). Replace the sending unit if the above meter readings are not obtained. If the low oil pressure light functions correctly, but the pressure gauge does not, remove the electrical connector from the oil pressure sending unit, turn the ignition switch to IGNITION and the gauge must read zero. Ground the (BN/GN) wire terminal to the crankcase. The gauge must read full scale (60 PSI). Replace the sending unit if the above gauge readings are obtained but if the gauge readings are not obtained, replace the pressure gauge. If there is no power to the gauge diagnose the cause could be broken or disconnected leads to the gauge or an open gauge winding. Test by switching the ignition switch to IGNITION and verify that 12VDC is present at "+ terminal on the gauge, then with the ignition switch turned to OFF check the ground terminal for continuity to ground. Replace the gauge if 12VDC is present and ground terminal is grounded. If 12VDC is not present, trace wiring until disconnected or broken wire is found and repair as necessary. If ground terminal is not grounded, repeat the procedure used to trace a for 12VDC lead. The power lead fro the oil pressure and neutral switch is an orange wire on pin 6 of a 10 pin connector.

Go under the dash, remove a couple Phillips screws, pull radio out and unscrew 4 top cover screws and replace with new light.....any automotive retail/ parts store will have the bulb. About $1.25 Canadian about the same in US Currency. The whole operation to uninstall and reinstall is appx. 1 hour total

Most automotive radio shops and some Harley-Davidson service shops will have the knowledge and expertise to diagnose and either fix it or get ti fixed OR sell you a replacement one.

Get fuel pressure checked...may have an internal leak in the fuel tank.

On the year/make/model you posted about (2007 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide), there is no government recalls, investigations, or service bulletins, BUT there are 17 consumer complaints. http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults;jsessionid=QGTnTQhflB1mtD4lwjTSX1pJnTLQTvh6rGVRbnvYKZLJqQJBYnQd!980248847

sounds like low pressure on your fuel rail, this bike is fuel injected, correct?

Is it condensation or actual smoke? White smoke is associated with diesel mixed in petrol and with quite strong smells. I suspect that it is condensation as water vapor is a by product of combustion and the motor/exhaust will have to warm up to clear it. Check for water droplets at the end of the exhaust to confirm condensation. Burning oil will cause a blueish smoke to emit from exhausts.

What do you want to know?

Probably $60.00 to $100.00 depending on what country you are in. $60.00 US and $100.00 Canada for instance

If you have lost your fobs and have not set a personal pin code, then the TSSM module will have to be replaced along with new fobs. If you have a pin code, then you can dis-arm the alarm manually every time you turn it on. Also, it will enable new fobs to be assigned. You will need this done at a dealership as Digitech is required to assign the fobs. Five minute job. Any decent dealership should assign them for free if you purchase the fobs from them.

IMO, it's easier to remove the rear wheel/tire than it is the rear fender.