20 Most Recent 2007 kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic Questions & Answers

Check the ignition switch. If you have the manual, you can bypass the switch (hotwire) to check if the switch is at fault.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Cars and Trucks. It can only be the headlight switch or the wiring. The brake lights work from power, plus the brake switch and the lamp. The headlights work from power to headlight switch to the headlight lamp and the tail light lamp. https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+kawasaki+900+classic+headlight+wiring+diagram Apparently the headlight does work via a relay so test that. https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+kawasaki+900+classic+headlight+not+working ...

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yes

Unless it is a 24v battery that is what it is suppose to be. A voltage regulator keeps it at the level.

Check your side stand is actually up - switch my not be faukty at all!

First, get most of the fuel out of the tank. Remove the chrome housing from around the speedometer. Just remove the one bolt near the bottom, should be a allen head bolt. Then lift the bottom of it up slightly, and wiggle it forward to get it off. Then wiggle the speedometer off the same way. Don't forget to take the connector off the the back of the speedometer. Just push the little ear in the middle, and wiggle it off. There is another connector just under where the speedometer was. It is in the space by the frame under the front of the tank. Disconnect it also. Look to the right of where the last connector was, you should see a little hose connected to the fuel tank. Remove it also. Remove the seat. Remove the 2 bolt's at the bottom of the fuel tank. Before removing the tank, on the left side, remove the coil cover. It is just under the tank. Depending on you're bike, it should be chrome. There is only 1 phillip's head screw to remove, (or should be). Wiggle it straight off toward you. It should come off real easy. Look under the fuel tank, you should see a fuel line connected to the fuel tank. Look for the red connector. Take a flat head or slotted screwdriver and remove the little red clip till it comes out a little. It does not come all the way off. Then the fuel line should come right off. You might have to wiggle it a little. A little fuel will come out, but not much. Then look under the tank where the fuel line was, you will see some wire's coming down from the tank. Remember where you took off the chrome coil cover? There should be a connector to disconnect the wire's. You can follow the wire's down until you find them. I had a difficult time to remove it. I had to end up cutting my wire's one at a time and putting some spade connector's on them. This make's it easier to remove the fuel tank in future cases. The tank should come off now. There might be some more connector's or wire's to take off as every bike is usually not the same. Hope this help's.

No, it comes on when the engine temp gets to a set level(usually about 90 degrees celsius) SO, if you go faster the engine is going to burn more fuel and get hotter.

The kickstand sensor on these bikes is just a simple open/short module with a spring loaded switch to activate it. Replacing it is simply a matter of disconnecting the wiring, unbolting the old sensor, replacing the module, bolting it in, and connecting the wire.

If you are hearing the clicking sound that means that your starter motor's relay is trying to engage. Probably you don't have enough juice in your battery. Charge your battery very good and give it a try again.If still nothing happens then you must take out the starter motor and have it repaired. That spinning sound also suggests to take a closer look to your starter motor and your starter clutch which is located behind the stator's rotor.

There will be a nut bolt holding the turn signal on the rod.There will be a nut on the inside of the fender holding the turn signal. Loosen the nut and rotate your signal to the position you like and re-tighten the nut.--- Click this link for more details:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/08/right-turn-signal-on-rear-fender-on.html ---------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

There will be a nut on the inside of the fender holding the turn signal. Loosen the nut and rotate your signal to the position you like and retighten the nut. Sorry but I do not recall the size of the nut. If you need anything else let me know, Daniel.

Check the wiring at the sending unit. You may have to remove it from the gas tank and resolder or replace

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You cut the old ones off and then spray the new ones inside and the bars with Windex and quickly slide them on, it must be done in one smooth motion. I have done this many times on many different bikes, it is not easy.

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..