kawasaki ZZR 1100 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 9

I remember a training course a few years ago with Suzuki, they said that up to a point, as the more mdern bikes run hotter and or more efficient combustion, they could burn some oil without it actually smoking like a steam train. either you are burning it or it's going in to cooling system via head gasket, which is unlikely as a litre is a fair old lot. suggest you get your compression checked with a tester, and check all of them, look out for differences, maybe just one worn bore.

Assuming it is a standard cable and not hydraulic, ( I can't remember which your bike has ), Lubricate the cable and change the gearbox oil and filter. Ride for 50 miles or so then change the oil again but not the filter. This will flush out the dirt and grit that is hampering the clutch. Your clutch cable is probably pretty old and in questionable condition. Consider installing a new cable.

Clean your carbs! Your floats might be sticking open a bit. Plus, all Kawasakis have a simple spring-actuated check valve in the fuel valve. This way, you can disconnect the fuel line without having to block the flow. Fuel could be leaking through the check valve. Your problem most liklely identifies dirty gasoline. Clean out your tank, your carbs, and change your fuel filter.

check the carb on that cyl is getting fuel

by removing air box an squirting fuel in that cyl's carb with a windex pumper bottle, if engine picks up speed you need to clean that carb

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please rate this solution?? hahaha lol here you go

The spec sheet doesn't say if your model has fuel injection or carbs. Assuming carbs, disassemble and clean them. You will want the shop to balance and sync the carbs as well. This should get you back on the road in style.

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The carbs have been balanced but not synchronized? Each of the four carb slides needs to begin to open at the exact same time. Being out of sync can cause your problem. The balance and sync on a four cylinder bike is best done in the shop. If you try it yourself have a fire extinguisher handy. < < I am serious here.

Since the carbs have been cleaned and 'adjusted', I will take the liberty to note the air screw and the idle screw factory settings and how to set them. On each carb, GENTLY turn both screws inward until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw outward one and one half turns. Now you are back to the stock settings.

If your bike has CDI ignition, the timing is preset and is not adjustable.

Please rate this answer. Thanks Corrie!

I have been a bike mechanic for over 10 years and never seen this one before. The only thing I can even think of is a broken shift fork. This would let a slider gear wander freely and potentially engage a gear while the bike is already in a different gear. This would account for the rear wheel lock up. The 'tight spot' would probably be a torqued and twisted shaft resulting from the lock up.

The repair will be major surgery on the tranny. Personally, I would replace all shafts, all gears and all shift forks. You don't know and can't just look and see what stress has been put on any individual gear. I would hate to see you put in a few gears, put the engine back in the bike, then find a stressed gear dropping a couple of teeth the first time you hit second. To put it another way, get a new tranny and a new chain. The chain was stressed also. Sorry about the bad news.

Ask the dealer what the cost would be to replace the entire tranny but not the clutch. Now Google ' salvage motorcycles kawasaki ' and see what an entire used engine would cost. Chances are the engine swap that you can do yourself will cost less than the dealer's repair of the current tranny.

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Make your life easy. Call your local Jetski dealer and ask where the oil tank is located. The oil needed is called TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL. Buy the oil from the dealer as a thank you for their help. P.S., wait 30 days and you won't freeze so bad.

You need to clean your carbs. Something is gummed up inside. Most likely pilot jet, but need to clean and synchronize them.

Hi Sunil,

Did your mecahnic check the relay? It seems it fail when it gets heated up.
If you are sur eif the relay being the culprit...try searching it on e-bay!
Hope this will help.

Knight (YAMAHA SECA 750/4 1981)

hi deon,, in theory u can use any fuel pump on bikes,, most pressure is the same on all makes, wen the carbs are full of fuel the will shut off automaticly,,so yes u can use an after market one,,,cheeeers

hopefully, :(
or it could be a cracked head or block. (if it's been overheated)

Unleaded. Leaded petrol will damage your catalytic converter. If you remove the converter (or just burn it out without plugging it) you can safely use either one.

You should find it under the seat.
It should be round and made from aluminium

remove the seat the battery is under there

Hi ...... You need to support the bike level (front paddock stand) and undo one side pinch bolt then using the hex adapter for that side unscrew anticlockwise ..................... I cant remember whether it's a 15mm or 17mm. The front spindle is threaded both sides. Support wheel & pull spindle out. Assembly is reverse but you have to make sure speedo drive is engaged correctly prior to tightening up.

.. or broken wire that gets pulled apart when under stretch in the corner? Need to get the voltmeter out and check all connections back to the battery with the steering on full lock.

hi,
its the lights on the bike, instead of being able to switch the left or right indicator on so they are flashing, both are on constantly.

thats good and also chec plug wires for age... However u may need to rebalance the carbs and cylinders--do u hav a clymer manual!!